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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-11-2014, 09:03 AM   #10111
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Originally Posted by Graham11 View Post
it does not come w aluminum rack? do u recommend the JC over the exotek or another brand or all the same?
I agree get the rack. Mine did not come with an aluminum rack but I heard some of the earlier kits did. I have the exotek rack and the slider's. I started using the plastic rack and it was the first thing I broke first time to the track. Since replacing both of them with aluminum it's been pretty durable.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:31 AM   #10112
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it does not come w aluminum rack? do u recommend the JC over the exotek or another brand or all the same?
Exotek or yaiba
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:28 AM   #10113
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get the kyosho one.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:21 PM   #10114
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I am using a Spektrum 6070 servo. It seems very far off center. I have to run 80 sub trim on my m11x. The servo horn is pointing just 1 tooth in from center. I installed it the same as I have on my B4. I am using 1mm of shim and the servo link has a 1mm gap. If I move the horn the other way it is pointing past centered and angled toward the outside. Am I missing something or is it ok to be using this much sub trim?
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:23 PM   #10115
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
I am using a Spektrum 6070 servo. It seems very far off center. I have to run 80 sub trim on my m11x. The servo horn is pointing just 1 tooth in from center. I installed it the same as I have on my B4. I am using 1mm of shim and the servo link has a 1mm gap. If I move the horn the other way it is pointing past centered and angled toward the outside. Am I missing something or is it ok to be using this much sub trim?
I adjusted the link until I was close with the trim set to 0, then fine tuned with trim.
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:25 PM   #10116
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Tip for the MIP pucks system. The hex always rubbed against the bearing shield for me in the rear hubs.

Tested by removing the camber link and spinning shaft by hand. Its fine for high grip but on low grip causes issues. I fixed it by removing the 5x10x4 bearing and replacing with 5x10x3 for the rear outer hub. Works like a charm. Also ruined an older MIP hex set by using impact driver for putting nuts on, never again .
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:26 PM   #10117
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get the kyosho one.
+1 kyoshos the best. Exotek slopped out pretty fast, sold it in a hurry and got the kyosho
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #10118
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I've been happy with the revolution design rack so far about 4 months on it I believe
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:21 PM   #10119
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
I'm running 32.5/30 with avid 1.4x4 pistons. Kit springs and c out I'll try d out next then. I'm running Clay codes rear aka reds and suburbs open front. Riley set my diff last race. My only gripe with rm is I hardly have any off power steering going in the sweep is good just infield it corners wide unless I tap the brakes to get the rear loose otherwise it wants to push though the corners. I bumped up from b to a last Friday behind shay we were close but as long as he kept it together on the infield he could take the corners like a dart as we're I had to really work the car into the corners. This is why I was considering mm.
I will loan you some AKA foamed dirt webs to try on the front if you want. They have more steering IMO than codes. I thought codes were better than suburbs. If you still need more steering then lighten the oil in the front. If you go to D out in the front it will unlock the rear a bit by reducing the toe. You racing tomorrow?
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:45 PM   #10120
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I only race Fridays. I work out of town during the week. What about ions? I have a brand new set frt/rear. Is the closed cell foams really nessacery?
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:12 PM   #10121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967rs View Post
For MM I am running D in on both. I am running the battery stop and esc shelf from the rt6 so I have the battery all the way back and the esc above the battery. I tried the shorty sideways I didn't like it, but it might work better for you. I also am running the light weight chassis with all the screws in, if you are a little loose you could remove some or all side rail screws and motor brace screws.

RM, RF B out RR C out for 3.5 deg toe.
Yeah I'm good to go on my mm setup,pretty much running Cody Kings Reedy setup with a few changes. Also going to try saddles all the way back with the esc behind the servo.

Just recently put the new susp. hangers on my rm car(I have 2 cars)and needed a little guidance on the inserts. Thank you for the help I'm going to try your recommendation. There aren't a whole lot of "current" rear motor setup sheets out there since it seems everyone is running mid motor. I'm trying both! Lol.
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:16 PM   #10122
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Originally Posted by ThePanda View Post
get the kyosho one.
+1,definately.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:35 AM   #10123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy13 View Post
Yeah I'm good to go on my mm setup,pretty much running Cody Kings Reedy setup with a few changes. Also going to try saddles all the way back with the esc behind the servo.

Just recently put the new susp. hangers on my rm car(I have 2 cars)and needed a little guidance on the inserts. Thank you for the help I'm going to try your recommendation. There aren't a whole lot of "current" rear motor setup sheets out there since it seems everyone is running mid motor. I'm trying both! Lol.
I am also running 2 cars one rear, one mid. I have a setup for rear that works good for me on med-high bit I will post it when I get a chance.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:44 AM   #10124
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I am also running 2 cars one rear, one mid. I have a setup for rear that works good for me on med-high bit I will post it when I get a chance.
Cool. I'd like to try it. Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:19 PM   #10125
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hey guys, half way through building my new rb6 kit, doing MM set up. Does anyone have a good setup for carpet but not european style track. Its ozite with jumps etc... but no hard wood or other material for surface.
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