Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

I don't know of any "fast" 2wd racer that doesn't use his slipper as it's designed to...

As per one setup being faster than the other: check the stopwatch. The stopwatch never lies.

Now - if you run faster lap times with a locked slipper than with a properly setup one, there's something "different" with your driving

Paul

kenny lutz

iTrader: (38)

I ran my car last night with the gull wing arms. Went 21.5 and previous best was 21.9 and went a 14 5.15 previous best was 13 5.02. In the main had a good lead then had a wreck in the triple and dropped to 4th then made some passes and got 2nd. Happy overall with the change.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Got a taste of mid motor with a C4.2. Sold it for a B5. Now I'm looking at the RB6. How is it hooking up mid motor? I will be running it in stock class. I see the rear ballstud in mid motor cant be removed? How are you guys dealing with that? Might get this or possibly the serpent for indoor clay. Thanks.

Chris-s

Losi 22 ball studs have a hex in the ball, so you can use a ball ended driver to get to them.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I think you will find the steering to be just if not more responsive than the AE cars. Now keep in mind I haven't driven an AE car in a long time. What you will want to consider doing is reversing the steering rack and that should calm the car down some.

As for traction, in rear motor you will obviously have more but if you do go mid motor I have always felt the stock gull-wing arms will give more traction than the straight across arms. Now your track might dictate otherwise but that is what I noticed on my car.

The rear ball stud can be a pain as you do have to remove the rear shock tower to get to it. Perhaps the idea posted by Chris-s is something that most of us should look into. However, I have a power screw driver so I don't mind taking the rear apart to change it but I hardly ever change the height.

Hooking up, well if you look at my previous comment you can see what I said about the difference in arms. My suggestion is to stick with the stock rear arms unless the track has a lot of bite in it. Then maybe try the 521 or 521-1 rear arms. The only difference is that the 521-1 has one shock mount hole in it whereas the 521 has two. The 521-1 hole is in between the 521.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

As do the Lunsford titanium pieces

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Whats best for mid config? Shorty or saddle and esc in front or back? Running on clay. Will play with both battery's but dont feel like moving the esc around. Thanks.

Holmberg418

iTrader: (10)

I like a shorty with the esc on a shelf by the motor. Plenty of room to move the battery forward or back.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Yeah me too. I use the shelft with RM. I use the stadium truck shelf, its a lot roomier than the tiny buggy version.

Holmberg418

iTrader: (10)

That's what I did also. Because on my truck I put the esc on the chassis. And cut the supports off for more flex. I did the same when I was running rm on the rb6 and it helped a lot.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

The rear motor setup will have more traction for loser tracks, but if you have medium to high traction normally, mid is the way to go.

The biggest thing you need to do is pick RM/MM, flat vs gull (kit) rear arms, then battery type, then chassis layout, then shock pistons and oil. I would suggest starting with gold rear and pink front springs regardless.

What type of track do you run on? That will really determine what to do. For example, if you run on a blown out outdoor track, I would suggest rear motor with saddles. If you run indoor with low traction, then rear motor with a shorty or saddle. If you run indoor with medium grip, then that is kinda the tipping point where you want to start doing more high grip setup options like flat arms, mid motor, and shorty pack. High grip indoor is pretty much mid motor with flat arms and shorty with the speedo behind it.

There's a lot to consider when you pick a configuration here. What's it like where you run?

I'll give you an example of my setup and why I run it. I run mid motor with flat arms, generally considered a "high grip setup", but our track is generally medium, and sometimes low grip, so as a stop gap, I run a saddle pack all the way back with the motor guard/stiffner ground down a bit like Jared and team ran at cactus before. This gives me a great car most of the time that is still drivable when the traction goes away. I run the kit 5 hole pistons because our track gets super bumpy and currently has small jumps. If the track was smoother, the 4 x 1.3 (#55) pistons actually feel better, but are not forgiving on bumps.

Wayne

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Can you elaborate on what you did with the motor guard/stiffener? I thought they were just removing the screws that attach it to the chassis?
Cheers!

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Razathorn! Didnt know you were driving the Kyosho. I did use one of your setups from your B4.2 on my B4.2. It worked great at my track. Only made some minor adjustments. Would love to see what you are doing with the RB6.

My track goes from Medium grip but dusty to very high grip. We go from full treaded clay compound tires to dremeled slicks. Indoor clay. Track is a little bumpy.

First thing I need to decide is where to put the esc and which battery to run with mid motor. I just bought two new saddle packs and kind of want to use those but I also have two perfectly good shorty's.

mog ruith

iTrader: (6)

After reading the input above, I want to ask why not a full size stick Lipo in mm configuration with the flat arms instead of the gull arms. I'm wanting to try out a mm configuration and am stuck with standard size Lipo and the stock gull arms.

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

I run indoor low traction and felt the gull wings made the car lethargic and less responsive overall. But I guess you need to factor in driving style.

Full size lipo is too heavy whichever way you go IMHO

Cheers,