172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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12-30-2013, 03:15 AM
#9181
Ok fellers here's what I have been running since the chassis addition. I ran it this last Saturday and was able to run my personal bests in Round 1, then beating that by 4 seconds in Round 2. In the main I ran my fastest lap and had a lap on everyone, with some good competition. The new chassis makes the car easier to drive for sure in my opinion. I run on an indoor track that isn't really clay, its mainly hard packed dirt. Needless to say it can get dusty and loose at times so traction is up and down.
I put the new chassis on, went back to a setup I had run before, and did some battery adjustments that the new chassis allows you to do. My car weighs 1545g, and on the old chassis it was around 1580g. Pretty nice difference and it flexes more!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Dec%202013.pdf
I put the new chassis on, went back to a setup I had run before, and did some battery adjustments that the new chassis allows you to do. My car weighs 1545g, and on the old chassis it was around 1580g. Pretty nice difference and it flexes more!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Dec%202013.pdf
I run 3.5 in my rear mount out our track where it can dust up and it is far better than 3.0 without taking any steering away.
What’s the difference between UM128 and 97050M ball stud on the rear block?
Now I finally have my MM RB6 back together again after the $150 worth of parts crash I can do a back to back of my RM and MM at our club track and see what I like.
I have been paying close attention to the MM talk for medium bite tracks
12-30-2013, 09:00 AM
#9182
Ok fellers here's what I have been running since the chassis addition. I ran it this last Saturday and was able to run my personal bests in Round 1, then beating that by 4 seconds in Round 2. In the main I ran my fastest lap and had a lap on everyone, with some good competition. The new chassis makes the car easier to drive for sure in my opinion. I run on an indoor track that isn't really clay, its mainly hard packed dirt. Needless to say it can get dusty and loose at times so traction is up and down.
I put the new chassis on, went back to a setup I had run before, and did some battery adjustments that the new chassis allows you to do. My car weighs 1545g, and on the old chassis it was around 1580g. Pretty nice difference and it flexes more!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Dec%202013.pdf
I put the new chassis on, went back to a setup I had run before, and did some battery adjustments that the new chassis allows you to do. My car weighs 1545g, and on the old chassis it was around 1580g. Pretty nice difference and it flexes more!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Dec%202013.pdf
12-30-2013, 09:18 AM
#9183
You can have too much flex. Most of the milling is in the rear end so, in my opinion, making the torsional flex less will make the area that has more flex, work more. That may or not be correct on how it works but that's how I'm treating it until someone tells me I'm wrong, which I'm ok with!
I have a buddy with a Tamiya who says their chassis have so much torsional flex it creates a snap effect to the car. It would essentially flex to a point and snap back really fast. He made CF braces and it fixed it. I'm not really lacking side bite either.
If anything I can take them out to get even more grip out of it but right now it's pretty good.
I have a buddy with a Tamiya who says their chassis have so much torsional flex it creates a snap effect to the car. It would essentially flex to a point and snap back really fast. He made CF braces and it fixed it. I'm not really lacking side bite either.
If anything I can take them out to get even more grip out of it but right now it's pretty good.
12-30-2013, 09:27 AM
#9184
fresh car
here is my new ride. the quickie paint job turned out ok. i dremmeled the side pod just a bit for the reciever. i have an r10pro in my wheeler but just like the feel of the flow better so i kept it in my 2w (blasphemy i know) 
12-30-2013, 10:27 AM
#9185
Tech Adept
Very nice ^^^
Do you guys use weights on front for mid motor ?
I'm going to switch out my wire layout and put my battery as far as I can on my MM. . I have a low pro servo on it and a standard one that weighs just a bit more and I was thinking if it's good to add a bit weight on front when using a low profile servo..
Do you guys use weights on front for mid motor ?
I'm going to switch out my wire layout and put my battery as far as I can on my MM. . I have a low pro servo on it and a standard one that weighs just a bit more and I was thinking if it's good to add a bit weight on front when using a low profile servo..
12-30-2013, 05:58 PM
#9186
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Hi all, I have had my rb6 for about 1 month and have driven it twice, in the two times I took it to practice, I have bent the front suspension plate, has anyone got the same problem?, can it be fixed or do I just buy a new one every time I cartwheel my car after a jump?
12-30-2013, 06:37 PM
#9187
Hi all, I have had my rb6 for about 1 month and have driven it twice, in the two times I took it to practice, I have bent the front suspension plate, has anyone got the same problem?, can it be fixed or do I just buy a new one every time I cartwheel my car after a jump?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Plate-Type-B
And btw, don't cartwheel lol
12-30-2013, 08:48 PM
#9188
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Yeah, that's the front plate which I've been buying, I think it also comes stock cause that was the same part number in the manual, I tried bending them back but it's very difficult, has anyone tried reinforcing them or has an idea as to how to?
12-30-2013, 09:54 PM
#9189
Well, I drove the car and it was awesome, as always. Chassis flex screws out was better. More traction for sure. Went to the 27* caster setting thanks to a tip from Matesa. Faster steering in the infield was good.
12-31-2013, 01:48 AM
#9192
Tech Regular
If you really want to avoid bending that piece, slap an aluminum suspension block on it. GHEA makes one. But keep in mind that thing is bending for a reason, and it's preventing things like your arm or bulkhead from snapping.
12-31-2013, 02:10 AM
#9193
Tech Adept
12-31-2013, 04:15 AM
#9194
You may have a broken front suspension mount block (UM721) or inner hinge pin(UMW101) which could be causing the brace to bend due to the additional flex allowed.
If you really want to avoid bending that piece, slap an aluminum suspension block on it. GHEA makes one. But keep in mind that thing is bending for a reason, and it's preventing things like your arm or bulkhead from snapping.
If you really want to avoid bending that piece, slap an aluminum suspension block on it. GHEA makes one. But keep in mind that thing is bending for a reason, and it's preventing things like your arm or bulkhead from snapping.
12-31-2013, 07:03 AM
#9195
