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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-14-2013, 01:26 PM
  #8416  
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Rumor has it that there's an "SP" coming out. You can still find them around, my LHS has a few on the wall. Great car, and the best shocks in the industry by far.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:36 PM
  #8417  
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Originally Posted by glenng
thats a lotta toe in! i might rm on first outing, if i dont have time to switch to mm in the meantime. when i ran my durango in beginning of year, i got the panther super softs dialed really nicely. nevertheless i'll slick some m4's this week. thanks for all the help mike!
If you stay RM and have 521 arms, this setup was really good.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
RB6_MikeL_IRH_RM.pdf (344.5 KB, 176 views)
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:48 PM
  #8418  
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Anyone tried messing with the toe inserts? Mainly running C in C in to narrow up the rear? If so what did you find it did to the car?
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:52 PM
  #8419  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
If you stay RM and have 521 arms, this setup was really good.
Your set shows 1.0 in the Front Holder, but that is like 2 full degrees of anti squat, so you would be at 4 not 2 correct?
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:14 PM
  #8420  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Your set shows 1.0 in the Front Holder, but that is like 2 full degrees of anti squat, so you would be at 4 not 2 correct?
That's right. It would be 4 degrees the way he has it set. The car has 2 with no shims present.
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:08 PM
  #8421  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Your set shows 1.0 in the Front Holder, but that is like 2 full degrees of anti squat, so you would be at 4 not 2 correct?
I did add 1mm under the front holder, the rear should have been whatever was stock, .5mm I believe, I forgot to check that, and I wasn't sure what the dg would calculate too. I didn't try it back to back without it, but that setup as a whole was good, so I didn't feel the need.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:39 PM
  #8422  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
I did add 1mm under the front holder, the rear should have been whatever was stock, .5mm I believe, I forgot to check that, and I wasn't sure what the dg would calculate too. I didn't try it back to back without it, but that setup as a whole was good, so I didn't feel the need.
In that case you have -3 degrees. To get the same effect you could just put a 0.5 under the front block and remove the 0.5 from the rear block.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:20 PM
  #8423  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
I did add 1mm under the front holder, the rear should have been whatever was stock, .5mm I believe, I forgot to check that, and I wasn't sure what the dg would calculate too. I didn't try it back to back without it, but that setup as a whole was good, so I didn't feel the need.
Do you mind if I ask you some questions about your setup? I've been looking at it, and it's just very odd to me.

For example, the rear end seems weird. You have increased forward bite by adding more squat to 3 degrees, but then you add toe, have a .5 spacer on the bulkhead, and a 2mm on the outside to then stiffen up the rear end up again. Plus you are running 5wt thicker oil up front, and that could be because of the pistons, but then you run the rear end up 2mm higher than normal.

I just am trying to figure out how you got to that point, because it seems awfully unbalanced in terms of adjustments that do something, but then you are doing other things to counter act those things. lol

Anyway if you could fill me in Id love to hear it.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:15 PM
  #8424  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
If you stay RM and have 521 arms, this setup was really good.
you are a king! thank you! hopefully i meet ya on friday!
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:26 AM
  #8425  
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Any advantage in using the carbon composite parts?
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:31 AM
  #8426  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Do you mind if I ask you some questions about your setup? I've been looking at it, and it's just very odd to me.

For example, the rear end seems weird. You have increased forward bite by adding more squat to 3 degrees, but then you add toe, have a .5 spacer on the bulkhead, and a 2mm on the outside to then stiffen up the rear end up again. Plus you are running 5wt thicker oil up front, and that could be because of the pistons, but then you run the rear end up 2mm higher than normal.

I just am trying to figure out how you got to that point, because it seems awfully unbalanced in terms of adjustments that do something, but then you are doing other things to counter act those things. lol

Anyway if you could fill me in Id love to hear it.
he runs at Area 51 LOL.

One of the local AE Factory guys who runs at his track was telling me this weekend that they are down to 17mm ride height, almost no droop, and a set of slicks every weekend. They do stuff to their cars there that just isn't done anywhere else in the world... hence Area 51.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:47 AM
  #8427  
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Bobs right. Long island it the land of setups that shouldn't work. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. If it works there........may mike reedy have mercy on your soul
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:48 AM
  #8428  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Do you mind if I ask you some questions about your setup? I've been looking at it, and it's just very odd to me.

For example, the rear end seems weird. You have increased forward bite by adding more squat to 3 degrees, but then you add toe, have a .5 spacer on the bulkhead, and a 2mm on the outside to then stiffen up the rear end up again. Plus you are running 5wt thicker oil up front, and that could be because of the pistons, but then you run the rear end up 2mm higher than normal.
The shocks are easy, I only could get one set of blanks, and I really am not fond of the stock 5H pistons, the holes are too large imo, so thicker oil and higher ride height was for handling a bad landing we had on an old layout. (our current layout has one jump as well where you can land in the wrong spot and a bad bounce will put you on your lid). I much prefer the GHEA 4x1.3 tapered.
0 dg rear toe would have been better in 17.5 with this setup, as it had plenty of bite, but remember we run on full slicks and often traction roll, its kind of a balance choosing how much steering you can run. I also don't claim it to be a perfect setup, but it worked for me.


The rear camber link has not been touched beside moving from the 2 and 3 hole spots, I have not played with inside/outside link height, the height was from another fast driver, and I left it. The antisquat was not tested back to back, as I switched to MM for a while, and added it back in when I went to RM for an outdoor race.

I just am trying to figure out how you got to that point, because it seems awfully unbalanced in terms of adjustments that do something, but then you are doing other things to counter act those things. lol

This is very possible, I can't get down to the track every week and really test every change, plus the track gets better throughout the night and you don't always know if the change helped, or if the track did.

Anyway if you could fill me in Id love to hear it.
Sure, see above. I general, this car has just been good, even with the kit setup it was in the ballpark, and all the small changes, just give it different character, opposed to be B4 which would go "out to lunch" if you tried something weird.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:52 AM
  #8429  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
he runs at Area 51 LOL.

One of the local AE Factory guys who runs at his track was telling me this weekend that they are down to 17mm ride height, almost no droop, and a set of slicks every weekend. They do stuff to their cars there that just isn't done anywhere else in the world... hence Area 51.
Honestly, I don't think its any different than setups made for carpet, but I did also run the exact same setup at vineland, just needed the right tires, and unfortunately chose the wrong tires at the wrong times for the track The car did have moments of being really good though.
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:40 AM
  #8430  
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Has anyone tried the rear stabilizer set? I am thinking of ordering one and wanted to get some input. Our indoor track is by no means high bite and can dusty/bumpy so I am not sure if it is worth trying or not...
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