Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

I got the king pin but I think you have to use a different C-Hub...

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

I've looked quickly, and browsed through the manual. I bought one of these used and want to convert it to mid motor from rear motor. Is there an instruction sheet anywhere for converting between the two?

Do I just have to try and take apart the car in reverse manual order and then put it back together the other way 'round? This seems like it'd be much more work than needed due to how soon the manual starts showing differences between mid/rear config in the build.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

Page 18 is for rear motor assembly. I believe page 28 is for mid motor assembly if I'm not mistaken.

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

I think the whole purpose of the king pin set for the rb6 is for the 4 bushings. C'mon Kyosho release some delrin steering bushings already

NitroLuver

iTrader: (48)

Been seriously thinking about picking up one of these to try,hopefully soon I can get one..will run stock for now but mod is in the future as I love the power and the challenge of taming them

celt

iTrader: (5)

I sometimes go to the expense, and it's not a lot, and build my kits with ProTek 12.9 grade steel screws from Amain Hobbies - or anywhere that sells high grade hardware. Not a plug for Amain by any means, they always carry everything I need.

Great quality for spares and will almost never wallow out like softer material.

Here's an example, so you see what I'm referring to...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Head-Screws-10

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

My local ACE hardware carries SS screws similar to what I get from mcmaster, its usually easier to just go down there an grab a few of the sizes I need instead of ordering boxes of 50 and have tons left over. I use steel for stuff like hinge pin mounts, anything that will see a lot of strees, and SS for the rest.

Shimmy

iTrader: (19)

Any idea what hubs are needed?

Main reason I would like to get them is to remove some slop and I find easier to adjust.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I'm looking to build a second transmission for mid motor just so I can swap entire rears if needed. If anyone has the mid motor parts and wants to unload them, shoot me a PM and let me know what you have. Figured with the influx of guys buying new cars, there may be some unused parts laying around.

skengines

iTrader: (226)

Do the new suspension hangers require the LAW32 bushings?

Ice22

Hey guys

I´m going to buy the Rb6 in the next days while selling my B44.1..2wd is ( in my opinion) much more fun

I`m racing on a high grip track ( astroturf) in europe. I suppose buillding the rb6 in mid-engine setup would be the best solution ?

What tyres would you suggest? I thought about Schuhmacher stagger in the front and Schuhmacher Minipin/dboots in the rear.
Are there any tyres in the kit?
I would say no, but many shops don`t add them to the "things u need to complete the set"

I´m using an LRP SXX competetion2 + LRPk4 8,5t vektor engine. What Gear ratio would you suggest?

wwwmacdannstadtde thats the homepage of the track I´m racing on. We do only have 1 long straight. Im atm not allowed to link urls, so if you want to look at it feel free to do so

I am thankfull for any help

cya guys

RacinJacin

I am in the US Cali. I tried to look at the track you linked. I didn't find it. The mid motor set up is great on tacky clay and carpet. In Clay I use J Concepts Bar Codes Gold compound soft. I run rear motor also. Not Mid. I have some testing to do with the mid motor set up. This car has no trouble turning at all. The Kit will not have any tires in it. It does come with wheels. For gearing It come stock with an 82 spur if I remember correctly. You might want to start with a 17 tooth check you temp them move up from there. The car will be fast no matter what gearing you try. But you need to gear for run time, temp and Top speed in the straights also.
For stock You want to find the smallest spur gear you can find and go big on the pinion. The motor plate won't let you go big unless you put a 70 spur on it. Or whatever you can find. I think I am using a 71 Associated spur gear. For stock. With the largest pinion I could fit. You can use associated spurs also. You have to buy the slipper pads and thats it.

Also there are some new parts out from Kyosho new rear hinge pin blocks and new rear hub carriers.. Both are way more adjustable. The hinge pin blocks let you widen the car change the toe in and let you narrow the rear if you want.
You might have to call your dealer and have them order them though. They might not be in stock.

The new hub carriers let you choose what bearings you want to use. I use the over sided outer with the stock inner. O degree. I have the .5 deg also.

While you are putting the car together you should put the aluminum steering bell cranks in. YOU wont want to take it back apart after you have it up and going. I have not broke anything but 2 ball cups since I have had this car.


And - NO I DONT WORK FOR KYOSHO.
I just really like the quality of the products.

I hope something I babbled here helped you.

RacinJacin

I might try using the gear dif as weird as that may seem. I have on on my Ultima SC and it is bomb proof.

mojo tom

Mid for sure on astro.

Stagger cut low profile on a slim wheel, no insert or foam (but drill two holes on the wheels).
Rear Minispikes Yellow with tubby foam inserts, outer row cut.
You could try later on minipins but it will be way more aggressive.
No rebound on shocks (especially rear) and almost no flap on wing.

The car is awesome on high grip astro (although I'm running small ores and flat RB5 wishbones)

skengines

iTrader: (226)

What gearing do you guys recommend for a 10.5 motor?