172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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09-29-2012, 10:13 PM
#811
(Yes, I know about multi-quote. Just reading back through old posts. Sorry...)
I mounted my Futaba Rx, which is bigger than the KO, right side up along the side of the battery. I just layered up about eight pieces of servo tape to build a flat spot for the Rx. Seems to work fine. We'll see if it holds up. Mounted the R10 capacitor opposite the Rx but in its side. Power switch mounts vertically on the side of the rear bulkhead behind the ESC on the right side.
I think this is what Jared did too.
Mike
I mounted my Futaba Rx, which is bigger than the KO, right side up along the side of the battery. I just layered up about eight pieces of servo tape to build a flat spot for the Rx. Seems to work fine. We'll see if it holds up. Mounted the R10 capacitor opposite the Rx but in its side. Power switch mounts vertically on the side of the rear bulkhead behind the ESC on the right side.
I think this is what Jared did too.
Mike
09-29-2012, 11:52 PM
#813
I had the same thing happening to me. Running mid, and when I tried the outer hole on the chassis side, the bulkhead split in 2 upon landing the triple (wasn't even a crash). Yes I had the grub screw on the other hole and no I didn't over-tighten. The bulkheah's too too thin at that point IMHO and the ball studs should come in 8mm thread there. I had to revert to inner hole and I put a longer stud with a nut to clamp it down.
.... so i have put longer ones in mine also with a nut on them !!
09-30-2012, 03:29 AM
#814
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To add the grub screws to fill in the additional holes in the bulkhead, what mm size are they? Thanks
09-30-2012, 04:26 AM
#815
you woulduse a 3mm grub screw so if you needed that hole for later adjustments you could just remove the grub screw I've been doing this in all k cars forever and rarely have failures in these areas. also on this build i decided to start taping even plastic holes to prolong the durability.
is anyone building any weight into their cars like we did in the 5? i gotta say i really like the little slotts for hiding the wiring really makes things look clean
is anyone building any weight into their cars like we did in the 5? i gotta say i really like the little slotts for hiding the wiring really makes things look clean
09-30-2012, 07:55 AM
#816
Tech Apprentice
can anybody tell me the part nr. of the body?
09-30-2012, 08:22 AM
#817
09-30-2012, 10:16 AM
#818
Tech Apprentice
thanks!
09-30-2012, 02:48 PM
#822
Good evening guys!
I am a 1/8TT nitro "player", and while i live in Portugal and we have sunny days almost all year, it rains sometimes. Mostly on weekends... ahahah
So i decided to get an electric 1/10 car so i can practice, even on rainy days. I tought about a Losi 22, but then i saw this new Kyosho. Anyone with experience from both cars to give me some lights about the differences between them?
Thanks in advance, Tiago
I am a 1/8TT nitro "player", and while i live in Portugal and we have sunny days almost all year, it rains sometimes. Mostly on weekends... ahahah
So i decided to get an electric 1/10 car so i can practice, even on rainy days. I tought about a Losi 22, but then i saw this new Kyosho. Anyone with experience from both cars to give me some lights about the differences between them?
Thanks in advance, Tiago
09-30-2012, 02:57 PM
#823
Well first time out and car was awesome. Got lucky all the Kyosho guys were at the track so I got some help. Started with the Tebo WCRC set up. Car was dialed.
Issues. Didn't have the long ball studs and grub screws. Bad move. 2 laps stripped. Replaced that, put in long ball studs and good to go.
Also couldn't ge the slipper adjusted right. Needed to compress the spring more, scrub up the slippers with scotch brite and good to go.
Had a blast and was running faster than my old B4.1. Car is very durable. Plenty of short bus poundings and no issues.
Next time out just need to solve for a little more steering and I will be golden.
Enjoy and don't forget those long ball studs.
Issues. Didn't have the long ball studs and grub screws. Bad move. 2 laps stripped. Replaced that, put in long ball studs and good to go.
Also couldn't ge the slipper adjusted right. Needed to compress the spring more, scrub up the slippers with scotch brite and good to go.
Had a blast and was running faster than my old B4.1. Car is very durable. Plenty of short bus poundings and no issues.
Next time out just need to solve for a little more steering and I will be golden.
Enjoy and don't forget those long ball studs.
09-30-2012, 06:50 PM
#824
you woulduse a 3mm grub screw so if you needed that hole for later adjustments you could just remove the grub screw I've been doing this in all k cars forever and rarely have failures in these areas. also on this build i decided to start taping even plastic holes to prolong the durability.
is anyone building any weight into their cars like we did in the 5? i gotta say i really like the little slotts for hiding the wiring really makes things look clean
is anyone building any weight into their cars like we did in the 5? i gotta say i really like the little slotts for hiding the wiring really makes things look clean
09-30-2012, 07:38 PM
#825
The longer ballstud always makes a difference, especially if it has a spacer under it. It's a matter of leverage/spreading the load out. I've been putting longer ballstuds in my builds for years.