172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
08-27-2013, 12:53 PM
#7981
2 deg anti squat is kit standard. In my experience, it has the same effect as RM when you change it.
I have played with weight balance and was actually able to get 65% of cars total weight onto the rear wheels. Yes, I had traction, but the car didn't feel as good as mine does now. IMO after trying one of the team drivers setups where they used a saddle pack pushed all the way back, it was clear that their setup worked better than mine and that getting all that weight over the rear tires, wasn't the only way to yield traction.
I have played with weight balance and was actually able to get 65% of cars total weight onto the rear wheels. Yes, I had traction, but the car didn't feel as good as mine does now. IMO after trying one of the team drivers setups where they used a saddle pack pushed all the way back, it was clear that their setup worked better than mine and that getting all that weight over the rear tires, wasn't the only way to yield traction.
Next question on changing anti squat with the mid setup. There's a couple of kit supplied shims that go between the rear arm mount and bulkhead. A .5 and 1mm shim if I remember right. Would you switch that out or, just change the shim on the front arm mount, or both to get the desired degree od anti squat? I'm thinking the easiest would be to just play with the front arm mount shim, but it may not be the correct or only way.
You can pm me that setup to look at if you don't mind. Never hurts to have options to explore.
08-27-2013, 12:57 PM
#7982
2 biggest things that mady my midmotor setup actually work well...
1. 0.5* hubs installed
2. side pods dremmeled so the shorty could sit sideways all the way against the rear bracce in the back.
i tried different configurations and ended up where your electronics are now.
1. 0.5* hubs installed
2. side pods dremmeled so the shorty could sit sideways all the way against the rear bracce in the back.
i tried different configurations and ended up where your electronics are now.
Thought about the side ways shorty setup. Wasn't ready to hack up the side pods at that time, but may have to consider doing just that. Did you leave the elec. placement all the way up front like that, or move them back some so there was a little less front weight bias?
08-27-2013, 01:44 PM
#7985
I did sideways shorty on my midmotor. My 17.5 rtr is 1524 grams! Way lighter than the RM setup I had on her same electronics thinner wire though (but thats maybe 5-10 grams). Will run it this weekend. The weight balance changes a lot compared to the inline mid motor. The CG went behind by a 3/4 inch rough estimate.
08-28-2013, 06:18 AM
#7986
at first I was like...
then I was like...
now Im like...
Rebuilt my RB6 from a new kit. Only think I reused from my old car were the shocks and the diff since I rebuilt them only 4 days ago.
All new upgrades added too.
Includes:
Kyosho steering rack
Kyosho V1 .5* hubs
Kyosho rear pivot blocks with inserts
Kyosho Titanium screw kit
Kyosho vented slipper discs
Kyosho vented motor plate
Kyosho RB5 front axles
KO Propo Rsx servo (the KO aluminum servo arm doesn't fit the RB6)
I cant wait to get my new motor and solder this up! Orion R10 paired up to a D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla. (may try the LRP Flow)
then I was like...
now Im like...
Rebuilt my RB6 from a new kit. Only think I reused from my old car were the shocks and the diff since I rebuilt them only 4 days ago.
All new upgrades added too.
Includes:
Kyosho steering rack
Kyosho V1 .5* hubs
Kyosho rear pivot blocks with inserts
Kyosho Titanium screw kit
Kyosho vented slipper discs
Kyosho vented motor plate
Kyosho RB5 front axles
KO Propo Rsx servo (the KO aluminum servo arm doesn't fit the RB6)
I cant wait to get my new motor and solder this up! Orion R10 paired up to a D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla. (may try the LRP Flow)
08-28-2013, 06:29 AM
#7987
at first I was like...
then I was like...
now Im like..Rebuilt my RB6 from a new kit. Only think I reused from my old car were the shocks and the diff since I rebuilt them only 4 days ago.
All new upgrades added too.
Includes:
Kyosho steering rack
Kyosho V1 .5* hubs
Kyosho rear pivot blocks with inserts
Kyosho Titanium screw kit
Kyosho vented slipper discs
Kyosho vented motor plate
Kyosho RB5 front axles
KO Propo Rsx servo (the KO aluminum servo arm doesn't fit the RB6)
I cant wait to get my new motor and solder this up! Orion R10 paired up to a D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla. (may try the LRP Flow)
then I was like...
now Im like..Rebuilt my RB6 from a new kit. Only think I reused from my old car were the shocks and the diff since I rebuilt them only 4 days ago.
All new upgrades added too.
Includes:
Kyosho steering rack
Kyosho V1 .5* hubs
Kyosho rear pivot blocks with inserts
Kyosho Titanium screw kit
Kyosho vented slipper discs
Kyosho vented motor plate
Kyosho RB5 front axles
KO Propo Rsx servo (the KO aluminum servo arm doesn't fit the RB6)
I cant wait to get my new motor and solder this up! Orion R10 paired up to a D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla. (may try the LRP Flow)
08-28-2013, 07:50 AM
#7992
Might have to play with the .5 hubs. That could be helpful and an easy change to make. Thank you.
Thought about the side ways shorty setup. Wasn't ready to hack up the side pods at that time, but may have to consider doing just that. Did you leave the elec. placement all the way up front like that, or move them back some so there was a little less front weight bias?
Thought about the side ways shorty setup. Wasn't ready to hack up the side pods at that time, but may have to consider doing just that. Did you leave the elec. placement all the way up front like that, or move them back some so there was a little less front weight bias?
08-28-2013, 11:23 AM
#7995
The slipper plate needs to sit on the slipper pad, 100%.