Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#7142
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Nope, longer links lower your roll center, which decreases roll resistance (more roll)
It does, as I explained what you will get when you run the narrow hangers.
Wider track = more roll resistance = less traction/bite when cornering
Narrow track = more roll = more traction/bite when cornering
It does, as I explained what you will get when you run the narrow hangers.
Wider track = more roll resistance = less traction/bite when cornering
Narrow track = more roll = more traction/bite when cornering
ok, regardless of the science and math. My rb6 was extremely planed on low bit surfaces with the wide hangers. Way more so than the b4. So I cant imagine even more side bite. I dont think i would have liked it much. But I got my kit used and it didnt come with the narrow hangers, so I was unable to try. But I was so happy with the wide hangers and dropping 2 seconds per lap over the b4, I guess I really didnt even care to try it. it turned onn a dime and never lost grip.
#7143
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Bob, the c-hubs "raise" the roll center. The a-hubs lower the roll center. So, you were wanting a relationship I think.
Narrow hangers = raise the roll center and the c-hubs raise the roll center
Wide Hangers = lower roll center and the A hubs lower the roll center.
Now these are different cars, so I am not sure i would directly correlate those comparisons. That being said, I always thought my b4 rolled more with A hubs than the C. It always wanted to skate with the C hubs. If you have the stock arms and wide hangers, I would still try it out for comparison. It only only maters how it feels to you.
Narrow hangers = raise the roll center and the c-hubs raise the roll center
Wide Hangers = lower roll center and the A hubs lower the roll center.
Now these are different cars, so I am not sure i would directly correlate those comparisons. That being said, I always thought my b4 rolled more with A hubs than the C. It always wanted to skate with the C hubs. If you have the stock arms and wide hangers, I would still try it out for comparison. It only only maters how it feels to you.
#7144
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As a layman I look at it this way: imagine you're running the 100m. When you start off the blocks your legs are planted wider for stability. Once you're posture is stable, you narrow your legs for more forward traction, concentrating on pushing yourself forward. If you try running with your legs wide the entire race you won't get that forward push down the stretch.
The wide hangers will reduce chances of flipping when cornering, sacrificing traction. For low traction and bumpy tracks I go for wide hangers. On a stable high traction track I go for narrow. My 2 cents, Cheers!
The wide hangers will reduce chances of flipping when cornering, sacrificing traction. For low traction and bumpy tracks I go for wide hangers. On a stable high traction track I go for narrow. My 2 cents, Cheers!
#7145
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As a layman I look at it this way: imagine you're running the 100m. When you start off the blocks your legs are planted wider for stability. Once you're posture is stable, you narrow your legs for more forward traction, concentrating on pushing yourself forward. If you try running with your legs wide the entire race you won't get that forward push down the stretch.
The wide hangers will reduce chances of flipping when cornering, sacrificing traction. For low traction and bumpy tracks I go for wide hangers. On a stable high traction track I go for narrow. My 2 cents, Cheers!
The wide hangers will reduce chances of flipping when cornering, sacrificing traction. For low traction and bumpy tracks I go for wide hangers. On a stable high traction track I go for narrow. My 2 cents, Cheers!
#7148
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Raising and lowering the ballstud depends on if you are doing it inboard or outboard. inboard it's the opposite, up to lower, down to raise. Outboard it's the same, up to raise, down to lower. The change inboard is more significant than the change outboard.
Think of it this way
If you raise the inboard 1mm and leave outboard alone, you lower roll center by a 'full step'
If you raise inboard AND outboard 1mm, you are lowering roll center by 'half a step'. This is because while you are lowering the RC inboard, you are counteracting that change slightly outboard.
So when I say C Hub or A Hub, I am taking into consideration the value of the entire change (inboard and outboard).
Now that we are done talking about Roll Centers, can we drool over the RT6 some?
Think of it this way
If you raise the inboard 1mm and leave outboard alone, you lower roll center by a 'full step'
If you raise inboard AND outboard 1mm, you are lowering roll center by 'half a step'. This is because while you are lowering the RC inboard, you are counteracting that change slightly outboard.
So when I say C Hub or A Hub, I am taking into consideration the value of the entire change (inboard and outboard).
Now that we are done talking about Roll Centers, can we drool over the RT6 some?
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#7150
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For example, if the angle of the link stays exactly the same, but all you do is make the link longer... with both cars sitting side by side with neither of them rolling... the roll center is exactly the same. It's not until after the car has started to roll, that the extra (or less) roll resistance comes in. Think of a curved graph.
but the short answer to your question is "yes", they both lower the roll center.
yes (inner stud).
#7151
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Read the section on roll center and camber links from this xxx main set up guide. This is for onroad cars but the principles are the same for all cars. Start with page 60 for roll center explanations.
http://www.brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20C...up%20Guide.pdf
http://www.brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20C...up%20Guide.pdf
#7152
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Read the section on roll center and camber links from this xxx main set up guide. This is for onroad cars but the principles are the same for all cars. Start with page 60 for roll center explanations.
http://www.brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20C...up%20Guide.pdf
http://www.brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20C...up%20Guide.pdf
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