Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-02-2013, 09:00 AM
  #3811  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 400
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KSimmonds
I've always used the method shown in this video.
many thanks!
ChadBlanton is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:49 AM
  #3812  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KSimmonds
The only piece I have broken is the rear camber plate (where the rear inner ball stud attaches). I have seen this piece broken on 3 separate cars (and yes- all 3 were using the set screws on either side of the ball stud), so that might be a good part to carry as a spare as well. I have since installed the exotek aluminum version.
That piece is called the upper rear bulkhead, and there is a design issue where the thickness of the plastic which the ballstud threads through, is too thin. From what I have heard is that there was already a running mold change on that part, and its thicker now, however I haven't confirmed with my own eyes.

Having said that, it would be worth knowing how much heavier the alu piece is. The car is already over weight, and I myself wouldn't want to add any more.

The only people I have seen break this part, were all running the outer hole where there is the least amount of supporting material. Running the middle hole with both supporting set screws seems to be pretty solid
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:56 AM
  #3813  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
t8rtot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KSimmonds
I've always used the method shown in this video.
this ^^ BUT keep the bleeder hole facing up!

putting the piston in first (at your desired rebound) is key
t8rtot is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:07 AM
  #3814  
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
That piece is called the upper rear bulkhead, and there is a design issue where the thickness of the plastic which the ballstud threads through, is too thin. From what I have heard is that there was already a running mold change on that part, and its thicker now, however I haven't confirmed with my own eyes.

Having said that, it would be worth knowing how much heavier the alu piece is. The car is already over weight, and I myself wouldn't want to add any more.

The only people I have seen break this part, were all running the outer hole where there is the least amount of supporting material. Running the middle hole with both supporting set screws seems to be pretty solid
I didn't actually weigh the 2 pieces when I replaced it, but the way the Exotek part is constructed I can't believe it's heavy enough to impact performance in a negative way.

I only run mod so weight hasn't been a large factor in my thinking, but I can certainly understand that being something to consider in the stock class.
KSimmonds is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:09 AM
  #3815  
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by t8rtot
this ^^ BUT keep the bleeder hole facing up!

putting the piston in first (at your desired rebound) is key

I do mine exactly like the video shows- even keeping the groove toward the bottom once the cartridge is almost all the way in. These are still emulsion shocks so air is going to be a component in the end.
KSimmonds is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:27 AM
  #3816  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KSimmonds
I didn't actually weigh the 2 pieces when I replaced it, but the way the Exotek part is constructed I can't believe it's heavy enough to impact performance in a negative way.

I only run mod so weight hasn't been a large factor in my thinking, but I can certainly understand that being something to consider in the stock class.
Weight affects more than just acceleration... It affects all aspects of handling, including direction changing and braking. The car is already heavy, and it all adds up.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:31 AM
  #3817  
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Weight affects more than just acceleration... It affects all aspects of handling, including direction changing and braking. The car is already heavy, and it all adds up.
I certainly agree with that. I'm extremely happy with the way my car handles as I have it set up for the tracks in my area. Next time I rebuild, I'll weigh the stock piece with the set screws vs. the Exotek part and post my findings. (unless someone beats me to it!)
KSimmonds is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:42 AM
  #3818  
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

While I can't confirm the weight of 10 grams listed on the Exotek site for their piece is accurate, this is what my scale shows for the stock piece with all 4 set screws on either side of where the ball stud would mount.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-stock.jpg  
KSimmonds is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:49 AM
  #3819  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KSimmonds
While I can't confirm the weight of 10 grams listed on the Exotek site for their piece is accurate, this is what my scale shows for the stock piece with all 4 set screws on either side of where the ball stud would mount.
interesting
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:55 AM
  #3820  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
aloksatoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N California
Posts: 3,154
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

nice! I ran 4 caster in fronts and now I like it more than before!! The high speed on power steering is INSANE!! Makes me think im driving my 1/8 nitro buggy hehehe. What antisquat are people running? I asked before as well but dint get any replies. The setup sheets don't mention it right?
aloksatoor is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 11:08 AM
  #3821  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (45)
 
pekow91's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 433
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KSimmonds
While I can't confirm the weight of 10 grams listed on the Exotek site for their piece is accurate, this is what my scale shows for the stock piece with all 4 set screws on either side of where the ball stud would mount.
That's good to know. I have gone through at least 2 different bulkheads (with the set screws in) and I just ordered the Exotek one.
pekow91 is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 12:14 PM
  #3822  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
t8rtot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

we forget that it being aluminum or any metal doesn't automatically make it heavier. most often they can make the parts smaller (or with less reinforcement) because the material is stronger...
t8rtot is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 01:22 PM
  #3823  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (42)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 428
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default Mid Motor RB6

Any thoughts out there that a mid Motor drives similar to what a TC does? I have yrs in TC but completely new to RB6 and have yet to drive it. thank you
noworries is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 01:34 PM
  #3824  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,947
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by t8rtot
we forget that it being aluminum or any metal doesn't automatically make it heavier. most often they can make the parts smaller (or with less reinforcement) because the material is stronger...
The only thing I would be worried about is now you are making that end of the car more rigid which may cause traction issues. Which might be good or bad depending on what type of track you run on, Yes/No?

Curious, how much are you trimming the wings down? I guess I am looking at the stock wing that came with the kit if you haven't changed it out already.
Kraig is offline  
Old 01-02-2013, 01:37 PM
  #3825  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,947
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MBUCK
Any thoughts out there that a mid Motor drives similar to what a TC does? I have yrs in TC but completely new to RB6 and have yet to drive it. thank you
I haven't run mid motor but remember you have a 2wd vehicle versus a 4wd vehicle and they would drive different.
Kraig is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.