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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-18-2012, 12:25 AM
  #3466  
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Make sure to check your outdrives :P



http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8...641d6b57_b.jpg
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:52 AM
  #3467  
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if you flip the diff to have the wear in the off-throttle position, you're degrading the off-throttle handling...
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:52 AM
  #3468  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Make sure to check your outdrives :P



http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8...641d6b57_b.jpg
WOW
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:59 AM
  #3469  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Make sure to check your outdrives :P



http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8...641d6b57_b.jpg
that's what mine looked like......
Did you see my "possible" solution a couple pages ago????

R
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:59 AM
  #3470  
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Originally Posted by RonBegeot
that's what mine looked like......
Did you see my "possible" solution a couple pages ago????

R
right mine dont look that bad at all on really high grip indoor clay. My arms are not shimmed tight, about ~0.3 mm play back and forth on the hinge pin holders and not much on the hub for the rear arms.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:20 AM
  #3471  
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Originally Posted by RonBegeot
I have had two set of outdrives actually chip and chunk away on the breaking side in the last two weeks. Never have had this happen in three years of owning 6 different kyosho buggies. After 2 packs the third set had paint chips missing already so several "100%" team drivers looked at my setup and suggested my rear arms were shimmed too tight. The thought was the dogbone had no play in its angle and was slamming the outdrive too directly.
Hope this suggestion helps as this was beyond a normal "wear item" fo sure.

R
I have some play on my arms. I've talked to a few guys and they think Tisza material issue where it's either too soft or the pins are too hard.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:41 AM
  #3472  
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Well I don't think the pins are to hard as they get flat spots quickly. But diff out drives chipped on my zx5 fs2sp first race day. Replaced them with a spare set and its been a year and no chips...
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:47 AM
  #3473  
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I know kyosho has had am issue with these on there 8th scales with over hardening them.

They seem to fix it with the next batch. I'm running stock and have not had an issue
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:53 AM
  #3474  
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On all of my K cars (RT5, RB5 and SC) the stock outdrives wore very quickly. The replacements always seemed to hold up forever though.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:02 AM
  #3475  
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Originally Posted by RonBegeot
that's what mine looked like......
Did you see my "possible" solution a couple pages ago????

R
I don't want other readers to be confused.. but out drives worn that badly need to go in the garbage. (they should of been in the garbage a LOOONG time ago).

I was recommending swapping around the diff and swing shafts per-emptivly to smooth out wear on both sides. Once the wear mark even STARTS to get a notch, they are due for replacement.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:13 AM
  #3476  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Make sure to check your outdrives :P



http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8...641d6b57_b.jpg
Mine look like that too. Lame.
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:46 PM
  #3477  
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for the outdrives and cvds, do you guys use grease? Specifically which kind?

Some nitro onroad racers only use bearing oil and apply it each run as it does not gather dirt.

Please inform.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:09 PM
  #3478  
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Originally Posted by MrHistory
for the outdrives and cvds, do you guys use grease? Specifically which kind?

Some nitro onroad racers only use bearing oil and apply it each run as it does not gather dirt.

Please inform.
In the "joint" itself very little grease and generally the "kit" stuff. No grease is typically used in the slots of the drives or on the pins however I have seen it done. It takes a ton of driving to wear out pins it's not a concern to me. Chipping Iv'e had was not wear related.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:28 PM
  #3479  
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i never had a premature wear problem with the outdrives or the pins or the cvds in any of my k cars. i also run my cars more then the average person. the only thing i ever use to lubricate my cvds and out drives is mothers California gold car wax. it keeps things moving freely and tends to not collect alot of dirt. i just apply it reassemble the parts and let the excess spin off by itself. the only outdrives that i have chipped are the fronts on my 4wd when i over flex the arm do to a ruff landing and pop out a bone.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:45 PM
  #3480  
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Outdrives and swingshaft pins have always worn really FAST for me on my K cars... They wear 2 or 3 times faster than my AE cars.
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