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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-21-2012, 07:40 PM
  #1876  
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Anyone know what the part number is for the medium shock ends?
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:57 PM
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Anyone else have this happen?this is after one club race on a blue groove track with no large jumps,maybe mine was machined to thin.

Buggy is awesome,TQ'ed by ten seconds over a 20 buggy field,had some issues on the main due to driver error
Last edited by powerslave; 10-21-2012 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:58 PM
  #1878  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
I got a chance to run my 6 yesterday, man was I impressed!! I'm just starting to run mod, what gearing would you guys recommend for a 8.5?
Which track? Short? Medium? Large. Do you need top speed or torque? What's the surface like? smooth? rutted out? And which motor? (most important question).
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:24 PM
  #1879  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Which track? Short? Medium? Large. Do you need top speed or torque? What's the surface like? smooth? rutted out? And which motor? (most important question).
I run at OCRC, its a med size track, and I'm running a Reedy Sonic 8.5.
Last edited by rcfiend; 10-21-2012 at 09:00 PM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:26 PM
  #1880  
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Originally Posted by powerslave
Anyone else have this happen?this is after one club race on a blue groove track with no large jumps,maybe mine was machined to thin.

Buggy is awesome,TQ'ed by ten seconds over a 20 buggy field,had some issues on the main due to driver error
Machined too thin? Not sure what you're referring to, but it looks like you scratched your chassis from not running a chassis protector. Going to happen... looks like you have some rocks.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Machined too thin? Not sure what you're referring to, but it looks like you scratched your chassis from not running a chassis protector. Going to happen... looks like you have some rocks.
I have no problem with the scratches,it's the milled part of the chassis where the transmission sits.Its caved in and actually split.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by powerslave
I have no problem with the scratches,it's the milled part of the chassis where the transmission sits.Its caved in and actually split.
Are you sure you're not too soft in the rear and bottoming out a lot? Mine has nothing like that and I've run a few races on it.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:22 PM
  #1883  
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That's what mine looks like. The aluminum parts are from my RB5 that I've had awhile, but you're really eating up your bumper and arms as well.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:44 PM
  #1884  
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Originally Posted by powerslave


Anyone else have this happen?this is after one club race on a blue groove track with no large jumps,maybe mine was machined to thin.

Buggy is awesome,TQ'ed by ten seconds over a 20 buggy field,had some issues on the main due to driver error
i just had a look at mine and i have the same thing but not as bad. I've had 3 race meets and a few practice sessions and there was no issues until yesterday
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:20 AM
  #1885  
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Originally Posted by jordy-15
i just had a look at mine and i have the same thing but not as bad. I've had 3 race meets and a few practice sessions and there was no issues until yesterday
Ditto here too, mine's not as bad. I recall seeing a divot after 1 race but not the gearbox well outline, checked it again and can see a slight well outline.

Here's mine

DSCF2505 by silvalis, on Flickr


DSCF2507 by silvalis, on Flickr

Mine's due to a combination of soft springs/not enough pack/rough outdoor circuit/large jump that has a messed up landing/crashing/bad at driving
Last edited by silvalis; 10-22-2012 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:24 AM
  #1886  
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Right now I have a b4.1 wc and love it, tried the 22 and wasnt the best for me, will this car be more like the b4 or 22 driving style
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:54 AM
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K_KING

yours looks like its starting to happen as well.
you can see a line starting to show
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:37 AM
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Just a heads up on avid wheels - the offset is smaller (inwards) by 1mm compared to K wheels. Creates an issue if you want to space em out on the rear to proper offset, not enough for serrateds to hold on to
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:29 AM
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Ought to be interesting to see what people and kyosho say about the chassis denting and cracking
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:49 AM
  #1890  
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makes me worried, and mine isnt here yet...
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