Team Associated RC8.2e RS RTR!
#16
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Shelby Township, MI 🇺🇸 & Shanghai 🇨🇳
Posts: 219
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Motor Mount
A RC8.2e factory team RTR would be way more expensive.
#18
Tech Elite
iTrader: (142)
Plus I like the idea of adding my own electronics of choice, not saying that the rtr electrics are bad but I have no need for the tx/rx and I have a preference of motor/esc I would like to run.
#19
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
And it is not explicitly stated, but the chassis in the RC8.2e RTR is the same as the Factory Team....talk about value!
#20
R/C Tech Elite Member
I don't really care if the buggy has the 8.2 or 8b motor mount. Looks like new rear axles though...
For 500$ (Tower price) this is a great deal for sure
For 500$ (Tower price) this is a great deal for sure
#21
I hate RTR...they usually break at the most predictible spots
#22
yep that a good deal
#23
I like to know were can you buy the reedy 2000kv from
#24
Tech Rookie
Besides the motor mount and shock bodies What else is different between the RTR & Kit.I looked at pics of both and not being familiar with this vehicle all I see is more blue factory parts on the Kit.Meaning are the parts the same just not aluminum.
#25
Ok this been out for abit what do you guys think
#26
The car was behaving really good, decent everything. It seems much better than the price point, a lot of the missing items from the Factory Team kit are things that make adjustments faster, and aren't that much worse (i.e. motor mount makes changing gearing faster on the F.T. kit, and the threaded shocks make suspension adjustments faster on the F.T. kit).
I had to gently squeeze the throttle on takeoff, otherwise it would consistently spin out to the left if you just smashed it.
The included tires are usable (I run on wet clay with a dusty crust). The car handles a little loose on stock form, but I haven't tried to make any adjustments yet.
One wheel lug nut was loose from factory, but after the one hour I got, no bolts have come loose yet.
My major disapointment was the servo dying after about one hour of run time. It's common in rtr kits but I really expected more from a Team Associated product. I have a Savox replacement waiting for me at the post office. I will file a warranty claim to get it replaced, but after this I think I will just save it as an emergency backup or sell it.
I had to gently squeeze the throttle on takeoff, otherwise it would consistently spin out to the left if you just smashed it.
The included tires are usable (I run on wet clay with a dusty crust). The car handles a little loose on stock form, but I haven't tried to make any adjustments yet.
One wheel lug nut was loose from factory, but after the one hour I got, no bolts have come loose yet.
My major disapointment was the servo dying after about one hour of run time. It's common in rtr kits but I really expected more from a Team Associated product. I have a Savox replacement waiting for me at the post office. I will file a warranty claim to get it replaced, but after this I think I will just save it as an emergency backup or sell it.
#27
Hey guys i read all your posts on here and yall have helped alot !! Im lookin at getin into 1/8 e buggy after running 1/10 for years and since i dont have anything yet for 1/8 this looks like a good way to go and the price is pretty awesome i dont wanna dump amillion bucks on all the pro stuff and i have a dx3r and the good savox i could drop in and go as long as you guys think the esc/motar is pretty good?? Thank yall so muchh!! Ill prob be sellin my other stuff sooon!!!
#28
Hey guys i read all your posts on here and yall have helped alot !! Im lookin at getin into 1/8 e buggy after running 1/10 for years and since i dont have anything yet for 1/8 this looks like a good way to go and the price is pretty awesome i dont wanna dump amillion bucks on all the pro stuff and i have a dx3r and the good savox i could drop in and go as long as you guys think the esc/motar is pretty good?? Thank yall so muchh!! Ill prob be sellin my other stuff sooon!!!
A) If you can afford/have the interest to travel, you will likely enjoy a top notch ride
B) The major cost cutting majors were to items that make adjustment easier, not solely reliability. (Shock towers not threaded, changing gearing much more time intensive.) Accordingly, if you only race at one track, once you get the set-up right, you can set it and forget it negating the rtr packages major downside.
So far the motor and esc have been reliable and very cool with the stock settings, but there is a performance increase with custom chosen parts. I'm 250 miles north of Toronto, so it's been cold lately, but I can run it for an hour and the electrics aren't anywhere near danger levels of heat. In the summer maybe not.
At the club level it seems to be one of the cheapest ways to get started with a really great race chassis. My home track only really has one "competitive racer" that has been racing for many years and that travels to other tracks and competitions. In my environment, the car is more than good enough to put my fate in my own hands for a podium. The level of competition at your local track might be the determining factor.
The car is a little more brittle than the Factory Team Kit, so if you aren't smooth or are on a big air track you might break a few pieces here and there over time. (I haven't but a fellow racer broke the rear motor mount on his rtr. It was a big table top meant for 1/5ths, but on a 1/8 if you gas it out of the corner you can fly like 35 feet, well past the downside catch ramp and smack the track hard, which caused the breakage. )
#29
OK so what I see as different from the Factory team is:
1) Shock Bodies: not threaded or hard anodized
2) Shock Shafts: not TiN
3) Shock Towers: not milled aluminum
4) Front Top Plate: not aluminum one piece
5) Diff outdrives: not aluminum --> Standard steel
6) Center Shafts: dogbones not CVAs
7) Rear Shafts: dogbones not CVAs
8) Hinge Pins: not TiN
9) Hinge Pin plates: steel not aluminum
10) Rear Wing: stock AE not JConcepts Illusion
11) Motor Mount: single piece not FT adjustable
I do see slight performance gains from CVAs and the sheer weight reductions from the FT parts. Durability should be really good with all the steel parts. So for an entry Race Spec kit this is very attractive to me. I can through in a DS1015 servo off my 10th scales and swap out the receiver for my Spektrum DX3S and all I need is new batteries. The mount accepts dual 2S backs which I have from my 10th scale cars so that could be pretty good.
What mAH battery is good for this to last 10 minutes?
1) Shock Bodies: not threaded or hard anodized
2) Shock Shafts: not TiN
3) Shock Towers: not milled aluminum
4) Front Top Plate: not aluminum one piece
5) Diff outdrives: not aluminum --> Standard steel
6) Center Shafts: dogbones not CVAs
7) Rear Shafts: dogbones not CVAs
8) Hinge Pins: not TiN
9) Hinge Pin plates: steel not aluminum
10) Rear Wing: stock AE not JConcepts Illusion
11) Motor Mount: single piece not FT adjustable
I do see slight performance gains from CVAs and the sheer weight reductions from the FT parts. Durability should be really good with all the steel parts. So for an entry Race Spec kit this is very attractive to me. I can through in a DS1015 servo off my 10th scales and swap out the receiver for my Spektrum DX3S and all I need is new batteries. The mount accepts dual 2S backs which I have from my 10th scale cars so that could be pretty good.
What mAH battery is good for this to last 10 minutes?
Last edited by ShortCourseOnly; 10-22-2012 at 09:41 AM.
#30
R/C Tech Elite Member
Motor mount is different too