WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

Scott Finally got a chance to try out the sideways battery midmotor set-up on a track with less bite. It was not the track I had hoped to make it to. This track is a clay sand mix, gets some fluff on top, seems Enduros and caliber 2.0's are working, Track was fairly dry, did 5 laps or so and unhooked the swaybars, was much better after that but I will be making wholesale changes. Traction is not very good when the track is dry, I was running laps with 2 Kyosho's that were rear motor and running 8.5's, I had a 13.5, My fast lap was a 32.6, there fastest lap was a 31.99. I will be making some changes before next weekend but I am going to stick with the sideways battery mid motor. I will let you know how it goes. Only thing I don't like about this truck is the leaky shocks, they were good for the first 6 months or so but now I can't get them to not leak. Other than that this truck rocks.

jonzee

Unless you're only running once a month, it makes sense you should have replaced the o-rings and rebuilt them by now.

I at least top mine off after every race day, but I've always done that before I ever had this car.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

good to hear you are working on a mid motor set up.
I just got the dates for a dual sport ride this summer, and unfortunately it is a week long ride in august, and it just lands perfectly over the second to last night race for my local tracks 'Race Prep sponsored Friday Night Series.
that means I'll be out of it for points, so I plan on putting both my 22sct and my 22t in mid-motor conifguration and just run the races I can, and have fun and see if i can get mid-motor set up to stick... and maybe get a W
you may get a PM at the end of the month, I should have time to configure both my cars by then, and I'd like a good starting point!
I have a huge term paper due this week, and finals week is in two weeks as well, so I am trying to avoid tinkering.

BTW: where are your shocks leaking? top or bottom?
replace the o-rings and green slime them! I am pretty happy with the standard outside/low-friction inside o-ring set up thus far.

RossNZ

Hi guys, so far I've had six starts with my new 22SCT and had two seconds and 4 wins, still getting used to it after my SC10, one thing it does off small jumps under power is lift the front end off the track, it also does this on a small rise down the straight and I have to get off the gas to stop it flipping. I added some weight to the front but then had to much steering and diden't like it, but it still lifted the front anyway.

I have a RS with a V2 tekin 10.5, no boost or turbo.

Would changing the rear tow block reduce this, I have the stock one in now, think it's 3.5, anyone had this issue?

With being new to this truck any tips to reduce this would be great.

WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

I have 2 that leak, one from the top and one from the bottom, 1 front and 1 rear. I started with the standard o-rings then went with the 1 standard and 1 low friction. Did have any issues for probably 6 months running twice a month. rebuilt them trying different set-ups all time. they were all weeping a little on the bottom so I went back to the standard o -rings, weeping stopped on all but one of the rears, i have replaced the o-rings numerous times. It's a pain when you have to refill a shock after 3 or 4 runs. It's not alot of fluid but still a pain. I will give the green slime trick a try. The front shock that leaks on the top I am stumped too, I have replaced the o-ring in the shock cap, tried tightened it tighter, tried not tightening enough. It just leaks.
If thats all the bad i can find I will take it. Love this truck.

sapperc

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried these: -TLR Optional Bleeder Shock Cap O-ring seals. Eliminate leaks caused by the inner o-ring pinching or swelling. Part#334000. See the sticky on the first page of this thread. I had leaking from the caps before using these. Now, no problems. I also get a little weeping from the bottoms during use. A little weeping is not unusual and may be more or less depending on how hard and how long you drive, especially from jump landings and rough tracks. If it gets excessive and changing o-rings doesn't help, you might try replacing the shock shafts. Good luck.

sapperc

iTrader: (1)

A little FYI on the TLR aluminum hexes. I recently installed the 22 buggy 1.5mm AL hexes up front and and the standard width 22SCT AL hexes in the rear. Prior to this I was using Traxxas Teflon shims with the stock plastic hexes to take out slop. With the aluminum hexes, there is no need for additional shims behind the axle pins. There are very close tolerances built into these things. Perfect fit, better than stock.

WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, gonna try those seals out for sure.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I did not touch my trucks setup at all. I just changed tires. I ran Med Soft Panther Rattlers up front and Soft Rattlers in the rear with Panther SC closed cell foam. Truck was on rails all day. Should have had a much better starting spot but popped a ball cup in the first qualifier on a faster track. Second round was a little wetter and track was not as fast (almost no one went faster then there first round time) so having that be my clean qualifier (no popping ball cups) I qualified 9th. Main I was on pace but just had issues getting through traffic and did not get the results but truck was amazing. Panther rubber was GREAT out there.

Still have lots of thrust bearings if you guys have not tired them they work awesome in the diffs. With pretty high traction this weekend at Pegasus Diff still feels great!
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gmackhurry

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone found an alternative place to buy the shock cap bleeder copper washers? They have been on back order for quite a while now. My LHS said maybe by the end of June.

Ggthedouble

Hey guys I just bought a used 22SCT and I am so hype to run it this weekend. Being new to the 2 wheel drive game I was wondering how often do you need to maintenance/rebuild the diff. I know on most cars it is every month of racing but this diff comes with the tungsten balls so I don't know if that makes a difference.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I rebuild it when it needs it not on a schedule. The type of track, traction and how you break it in and set it will all determine your diff life.

Ggthedouble

Wow! Yeah I don't know about any of that stuff. The only thing that I have raced Off-road is my SCTE and that is it.
A lot of people are talking about setting their caster to 5 and their kick up to 25 for a total of 30. Now what would be the difference if I ran 30 kick up and 0 caster it still equals 30?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

30/0 will be better through rough stuff and give more rear traction as it will allow better weight transfer to the rear of the truck.
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2011/...lr-22-22t.html

L.DENG

iTrader: (7)

Hello, guys.

has anyone measure the 22sct front and rear shock length from eye to eye? or some one could please have a measure?

cheers!