1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
04-14-2013, 03:49 PM
#6901
Oooh, ok, this is my first emulsion shock, so I thought it was supposed to be dead all around. The Horizon Hobby video makes it look that way. The pull back is about 3/4 of the shock it seems, even after cycling it a number of times (with the screw in). Putting the screw in also prevents the piston from going ALL the way up, like I said.
What I don't understand is the physics of this shock. What's causing it to pull in? The piston travels through the oil, the oil pushes through the piston holes, so what is putting force on the bottom of the piston to push it back up?
What I don't understand is the physics of this shock. What's causing it to pull in? The piston travels through the oil, the oil pushes through the piston holes, so what is putting force on the bottom of the piston to push it back up?
Did I explain that ok?
04-14-2013, 04:48 PM
#6902
You should be able to push it all the way up to a stop. There will be some shaft still exposed. An emulsion should is based on air compensation. Basically as the piston travels up in the shock you add more shock shaft to the inside of the shock and this will displace volume that the oil once had. You need room for that extra shaft material in the body of the shock. With a bladder shock the bladder will move up into the cap to compensate for this volume change. With an emulsion shock we are relying on the compression of air in the shock to compensate for this change in volume.
Did I explain that ok?
Did I explain that ok?
04-14-2013, 05:19 PM
#6903
You are doing it right. There will be some suck back until you cycle the shock a few times and air enters the shock to balance it out but what you are looking for is no push out. The emulsion style shock will have air in it the goal is to minimize the amount of air but at the end of the day there will be some air in there.
04-14-2013, 06:14 PM
#6904
Tech Apprentice
One of the biggest handling problems I have with this truck is that the nose feels way too light. While this gives the truck a super responsive feeling that I love on corner entry, it's very easy to pull wheelies coming off corners which hampers late exit steering. It also parachutes quite easily for me on bigger jumps despite having cut out all of the recommended holes in the stock body. In attempts to address this problem, I've gone up to 3 degrees anti squat and added 3 ounces of lead weight to the front shock tower, but that still hasn't cured it completely.
Does anybody have any other recommendations for keeping the nose down easier? This problem aside, my truck is otherwise awesome. It's capable of carrying a lot of corner speed and is generally easy to drive.
Does anybody have any other recommendations for keeping the nose down easier? This problem aside, my truck is otherwise awesome. It's capable of carrying a lot of corner speed and is generally easy to drive.
04-14-2013, 06:59 PM
#6905
By the time the shock strokes the air gets mixed in with the oil and there should not be an airpocket by then. Also if you push the piston all the way in you should have all the air compressed as the shaft is in the shock body and there should not be a significant volume of air left. Typically the way I check my shocks for leaking is to flip the car upside down for a couple min and then lightly press on the shocks. You can typically feel the small air gap then and just make sure it is not a lot and the same on both sides.
04-14-2013, 08:36 PM
#6906
whats up w/the 1 + 2mm gearbox shims? Are they a must have? I know its supose to give u more forward traction but is there a bad side?
04-14-2013, 10:42 PM
#6908
Got a question for anyone who has tried the after market delrin steering rack from Driven Productions. Is it worth the expense? Does it really keep the steering system tighter longer than the stock plastic steering rack? Thanks in advance.
I appreciate the tip on the one-off aluminum rack and housing, but I'd like to hear an evaluation of the delrin rack. Also, I'm not looking to debate whether the slop from the stock rack and housing is good or bad. I'm hoping there is a better, tighter, longer lasting, simple, and inexpensive option.
So, any reviews of the Driven Productions after market delrin steering rack? Anyone? Maybe I'll just have to be the first one...
I appreciate the tip on the one-off aluminum rack and housing, but I'd like to hear an evaluation of the delrin rack. Also, I'm not looking to debate whether the slop from the stock rack and housing is good or bad. I'm hoping there is a better, tighter, longer lasting, simple, and inexpensive option.
So, any reviews of the Driven Productions after market delrin steering rack? Anyone? Maybe I'll just have to be the first one...
04-15-2013, 07:10 AM
#6909
By the time the shock strokes the air gets mixed in with the oil and there should not be an airpocket by then. Also if you push the piston all the way in you should have all the air compressed as the shaft is in the shock body and there should not be a significant volume of air left. Typically the way I check my shocks for leaking is to flip the car upside down for a couple min and then lightly press on the shocks. You can typically feel the small air gap then and just make sure it is not a lot and the same on both sides.
I plan to rebuild them tonite.
should i fill the cap up with oil along with the shock when i go to put the cap on the shock and bleed the shocks?
04-15-2013, 07:17 AM
#6910
Not unless you like a lot of oil to bleed out. Just fill to the top of the shock.
04-15-2013, 08:52 AM
#6912
I did, They do last longer but they need some filling as there are too tight to begin with. I broke two in the past 2 years so they might break a little easier than the stock but thats on carpet and we hit the boards a little faster than on dirt. I havent ran them in a dusty track so I can't speak if they bind or not in these situations but there is no slots like the stock one (3 slots pointing forward)...
04-15-2013, 09:20 AM
#6913
I did, They do last longer but they need some filling as there are too tight to begin with. I broke two in the past 2 years so they might break a little easier than the stock but thats on carpet and we hit the boards a little faster than on dirt. I havent ran them in a dusty track so I can't speak if they bind or not in these situations but there is no slots like the stock one (3 slots pointing forward)...
04-15-2013, 02:04 PM
#6914
Since you quoted me, I assumed you read the part where I mentioned others were also fighting with the same issues I am having. The guys running the milder motors not so much.....What does that tell you?
I finished machining this new gear diff for clearance here at work today, and it needed .025 off it! There is definitely an issue with the factory tolerances...Now if there is an aluminum idler gear I can get, maybe we can keep this thing alive for more than a week or two.
I finished machining this new gear diff for clearance here at work today, and it needed .025 off it! There is definitely an issue with the factory tolerances...Now if there is an aluminum idler gear I can get, maybe we can keep this thing alive for more than a week or two.