I run MIP bypass1 shock pistions....http://miponline.com/store/mip12110.html. Listed with the limiters is the valve setup I'm currently running for my pistons. It allows me to adjust the rebound speed separate from compression. Or compression, but rebound is best.
Moving wheel base back will change weight transfer a bit. You'll have less forward traction but will make the truck more stable. It allows less weight to roll back while accelerating. Usually middle is perfect.
My rear is planted with the rear toe and the C hub mod. It turns great on the tight corners and high speed sweeper.

My track is medium traction that has a lot of jumps and some big ones mixed with some slow tight corners and one high speed corner with humps to keep everyone on there toes. So your setup should be different if it's high traction and smaller jumps.

oh ok , my track is high traction and small jumps we have one that is a med sized jump tho. when u say blue blue limiters that has me lost as hell man, most of mt corners are med speed but right bck in to the throttle kinda firm. changin this stuff will numb some of the steering down some too huh? before i make these changes i think i will move the shock to the middle on the front tower instead of the inner, if i dnt want to spend that kinda money on bypass piston what would b an ae equal and what limiters also would u suggest? another thing is it very noticeable about the piston setup that u run fron just say the normall internals of the shocks?

LOL...Yeah, the blue+blue referees to the shock pistons valves I'm using. I like them a lot!!

Try moving the rear hub to the middle and take some practice laps. Try one thing at a time. If you don't like it, go back to the old setup and try something else. It takes time to get your setup when you first get going. It took me 3 months to get a baseline setup I like. I'm still tweaking here and there just to see how it reacts. I know people want a setup to slap together and go, but each track is different and each driver is different. Just find that baseline you can go back to so you don't over do it and get your truck so far off it will be worse than stock.

My stock sc seems to b dialed, idk what I can do to make it faster tho, yesterday I ran a couple high 17 but stayed n the low 18. My runs were consistent and smooth, but I cnt seem to shave that tenth of a second off at all.

Now I'm working on dialing my mod sc in and I have to change my wheelbase to help tame the steering a bit so I can stay on my lines a lil bit better. I have a question about slop in my ae vehicles, the aluminum rear hubs n all my cars have a good bit of slop in them and I think that could effect my handling as well, right? What do u vdo to get rid of the play in the hubs, cause they are too spendy to just go n buy some new ones consistantly.

Sounds like your at the spot where you just need to keep practicing and racing. Wheel time is the best thing to do to get faster.

I've tightened up my truck before and it just didn't drive right. It actually like some kind of looseness to it. I feel it actually makes it a bit more forgiving. If it's really loose, you can try to shim it. But a little is not bad.

I run my SC10 on-road. I know this is off-road thread but looking for some help to get more steering.If I just cant get it to make those sharp turns. I have to round them off and it really hurts my times. Been finishing in the top three but I know my truck turns so bad it kills me.

My hubs on all my cars are sloppy as hell man

U have a lot of option here man, u can soften the front oil, stiffen the rear oil,shorten the camber links, mone the shock in on the front arms. Givethese suggestions a try but do it one at a time and give ur truck a few laps and then make changes from there n repeat the process as needed. Let me know how it turn out man n good luck

There is also the rear sway bar and rear sway bar to front sway bar mod.

Will stop the body form rolling and give more grip on your outside wheels.

Does any company out there currently make carbon fiber shock towers for this truck?

Some ppl like the sway bars and some dnt, it won't hurt to try em man I ran a buddy bof mine truck for a few laps and I hated his it pushed like a mack truck, but I can say is that his truck was smooth tho

Anti squat setup sheet question
 

Thanks J Bone for sharing your setup. I see you run 2 deg anti-squat.

How do you get 2 deg? Or are you using a 2 deg shim plus the stock block for a total of 4? This has always been a source of confusion for me when looking at the setup sheets on rc10.com too.

My truck has a block that is labeled 3.5 and I'm using no shims. If I want to try 2 deg anti-squat what would I do?
Thanks,
Tom

The 3.5 is toe in, it has nothing to do with anti-squat. To add anti-squat you would need to add the shims with the 3.5 toe block. 2 degrees seems to work best nearly everywhere.

The block with the 3.5 is the toe block, the anti-squat shim goes between it and the chassis. I believe there are 1 and 2 degree shims.

The 2° antisquat is the shim that goes under your 3.5 toe block. The kits usually comes with a 1° and 2° anti squat shim. Mine has the number stamped in it.
So you would install the shim that's labeled with a number 2 ( some have two dots indented in them) under the toe block. That will give you the 2° anti squat.