J_Bone

iTrader: (8)

That should be good for a starting point. Just temp it in 3 minutes, then 5 and 7 minutes. Just make sure it's not getting to hot. But it's a good idea to have extra pinons around too.


I would stay away from the RTR and all sensorless setups for Racing.
You can get a Brushlesshobbies.com ESC for $67.95 and buy a used sensored motor or even a Hobby King budget motor like this HK X-car 10.5 or HK tracks star or the newer Track star 10.5.
Plus there are other things to do like Aluminum hexes and shock springs to name a few.

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

honestly the FT is a over all better roller than what the RTR is. The Electronics in the RTR aren't really too bad other than the servo. The FT just has better parts on it and allows you to buy you're own electronics and pick with you want in it. If you're going to be racing I'd suggest the FT, fo sho! You'll end up spending almost the same amount buying everything you want and need up grading as what you will for the RTR. In the end when buying the RTR you'll wish you got the FT instead and will switch out the motor and esc anyways for a better system as well as the servo too.

TXRC8racer

iTrader: (19)

Should I got sensored or non sensored for racing?
Are the Reedy 540-SL 4900kV motors any good? And I figured that the FT was a better overall truck but just want to confirm it on here. Thanks for the info.. Now I just need to figure out what motor and esc

gamedog1966

What do u plan on racing, mod or stock? Idk about some of these systems but what I did was get good equipment from the jump so I wasn't disappointed with quality at all and I also got help from ppl who ran those systems such as esc and servo and tuned my motor on my own with patience and a temp gun and how it performed on the track for 5, 6 and 8 min that way I know how much timing I can apply for each qual and main to maximize my motor for that time period and I wrote the results down so I can know every race day for my track. Good motors are, reedy, trinity, orca, novak, thunder power, tekins and things like that. Esc are lrp, orion, novak, tekin and that's to name a few of the better4 quality motors and esc. Servos are xp, jr, spektrum, savox, that are a few of the high quality servos. I'm just giving u namees that u will not b disappointed with the performance at all. But remember that u get what u pay for 99% of the time

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

+1 a lot of us buy certain Name brands, not only for just the name, but because they have a GREAT record with being good. And gamedog is 100% correct, you get what you paid for in this hobby. I personally have a FT with a 10.5 Tekin Redline(it's sensored) with a LRP sxx TC v2 ESC and it's a GREAT esc for my 2wd and I'm running +4 boost on the timing and I come off with real low motor and ESC temps. I might suggest getting something that would be equal to a 8.5 or 10.5t motor if you go the non sensored way. I've heard a lot of good around my local track about the smoothness of Orion's motor, Novac makes really great motor's but in my past I've burned up a few of their esc's and I know a few other local racers who have done the same too, might stay clear of their ESC's. As far as boost, it's more of a personal preference. You can gear your motor right for the track and your truck and not need it, but some still do just because they want a little extra punch. If you're just starting off in racing, it would be better for you to buy the best from the get go, that way you won't "HAVE" to upgrade much later on down the road. And be sure to buy a ESC that you can have reverse in and take it out when your racing. Thats the only downside with the ESC I have, I cannot use reverse at all due to it not having it programmed in it.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Called AE and tech rep said this was the way to do it. He said 360 degrees is where you want to set it. I wanted my diff a bit tighter so probably more like 10 o' clock or so. One important thing to do is hold down the spur gear when you spin the tire. Tried the other method of holding down one tire and spur gear while trying to turn the other tire but did not have any success. This method is definitely alot easier if it works. I am off to the track tomorrow to see how it feels. Will try to post results after I test it out.

kdub

Rear springs are made and getting packaged, look for them on the site 5-7 days. We will also notify our dealer network as many of them need to re-stock their shelves. For any out of stock product, you can sign up for instant notification using the "text/email me" button. As soon as we add inventory, you get an email or text message (whatever you choose).

pink_sleeve

iTrader: (221)

Are they going to be available individually this time

SC Shaun

iTrader: (2)

Can you guys link me to the SC10 4x4 sway bar adaption for the Sc10?

The first thread won't load at all for me anymore ( I hear it's broke ) - If anyone has a copy/pasta or anything it would be greatly appreciated.

Hotbodiesd4

the 4x4 sway bars fit right on.

SC Shaun

iTrader: (2)

I don't think it's quite that simple seeing as how there is no location for the front. but thanks for the response!

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Diff lube isn't really lube per say, it's more like glue. If you use too much and get it all over the gear and the diff housing, it can cause problems. The diff will still be smooth, but no longer be "free" because of the extra lube sticks all the parts together.

On my 1/10 scale 1s oval car it's super sensitive to getting this part wrong, and it uses 1/8" balls so I just assumed it would be just as bad as on the 3/32 balls in the "Stealth" tranny. I put diff lube on the diff rings only with an exacto blade, just about as thin as you can get it. I don't get any on the balls or the diff halfs or the outdrives, my diffs last a long time, and are always the same.

It is possible that I'm being overly paranoid about it and it doesn't matter, but it sure doesn't hurt to do it with less diff lube (glue). I never have to add any new parts since I went to ceramic balls, just the labor to resand the diff rings and the thrust washers. Lasts about four race days before it gets notchy and I need to clean/resand it.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

You have to build lots of parts out of carbon fiber on your own.

Jconcepts has some kits coming if you can wait, otherwise look here on page 8, and copy away:

http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8

SC Shaun

iTrader: (2)

Thanks alot, Craig.

Hotbodiesd4

the back one fits on haha. haven't tryed to fit one on front. it would need quite abit of work