I can't explain what it is that makes them better but they are. When I assembled mine I noticed that it seemed like a much better fit, very tight tolerance. Feels like more pack with lighter oil. Gonna assemble my spare set with some bypass pistons and see what there like.

Another question. I was running a tekin redline 17.5 and went with a HT rotor 12.5. Should i adjust gearing, and witch way? was running 78/28 in blinky with the stock rotor. thanks for any info.

No, that wasn't me. I don't have any videos of my rc's on YouTube, that I know of.:sneaky:

Are you talking about the tapered ones? If so, you want to run them with tapered end down for rebound. It will allow for a quicker and consistant rebound. On the compression side they are suppose to be the same as the stock pistons.
I run MIP bypass pistons the same way, for rebound.
You should be able to run one to two teeth higher on pinion. Then adjust spur if you feel as if one pinion is to high and the next is to low.

What is a bypass piston and is it better than the tapered aluminum pistons

Not sure if I would ever run aluminum pistons, the ones we were talking about are Ghea pistons, machined delrin (plastic). http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=8476

I know everyone is hot on the Avid stuff, but the Ghea shock collars are worth the money IMO.http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=8480

Just asking, so you think the ghea shock collars are better than the avid collars

collars
 

The ghea collars are much better than the avid collars. Work perfect with the avid springs and a set of Losi cups. Best combination for BB conversion IMHO.

So ghea collars and losi cups thats the ticket.

+1

http://miponline.com/store/mip12110.html
I run mine reversed for rebound and it allows the rebound to be faster. So you can use the Oil for dampening and then adjust how much rebound you want by using valves.

have any of you guys tried the new D3.5 17.5 motor in blinky yet? What gearing did you find it ran best at??

Took the truck apart, it was the drive pin on the left side causing the problem. Completely sheared off.

I have had the same problem twice. One was the pin sheared like yours and the other I had a wheel nut back off and ended up stripping the wheel out.

First: Thanks for the battery assistance (puffy Lipos) duratrax sent two new batt with no questioned asked. Great customer service.

Second: I have a Race Spec RTR SC-10 and have upgraded the Avid servo arms, threaded shocks, new proline body, tires and Servo (spectrum 2040 and it is crazy fast). So far I like it but taking a bit to get used to it. I am looking into a radio with telemetry, and will it help along with a ESC and motor? I enjoy racing but seem to be lacking the touch the other drivers have and was told it was in the electronics (adjustable).

A good radio will make a huge diffrence! I would look into the Spektrum DX line of radio systems. I have the DX3R Pro, but if you dont want to spend that kind of money the DX3R, and the DX3S are both great radios.

As for electronics, getting a nice sensored 17.5 and a decent ESC will also help smooth everything out.