THANKS GUYS!!!

It was even cheaper...checked the connections on the sensor wire, reconnected, works great! That was my first battle with sensor issues, so I had no clue how they acted.

sc10 rear toe block
 

Does anyone know what the original sc10 rear toe block was? As in what degree was it?

3.5°

Just wondering, has anyone heard or seen anything about converting an SC10 to a SC Buggy? There were a few raced this past weekend at my local track, and they looked pretty cool, and fun! I don't want a Losi or plastic shocjed kyosho...

Get a B4.1 chassis and a Kyosho/Losi body and you should be right to go.

Hell you probably dont even need the Chassis.

If you are asking about he RTR SC10, both of mine came with 2.5° blocks.

Im going over my current setup. Has anyone used the springs that come with FTSC10 kit?

Yeah I think thats it. It is the part that still comes in the #9818 rear hinge pin mount kit. There are no numbers listed on it like the ones that come with the RS rtr. RS has the 3.5 installed but comes with the 2.5, 3, and the 4 degree blocks. I was hoping it was different from the marked ones for maybe a extra option for tuning. thanks guys for the info.

I have not run the grey rears but for indoor clay I use the red fronts silver rear. Outdoor I use blue front green rear. 30wt oil all around stock pistons 3 fr 1 rr.

I saw a custom cut chassis over in the associated thread at RCshortcourse of one done up very well. He even got professional pictures done and submitted it to Associated for consideration.

I have a FT Sc10 and heard of a few people switching their FT turnbuckles for the 4x4 ones. Is this possible? Has anyone tried it and what is the gain in doing so?

I did it. In theory it's more durable. I ended up taking mine off and going back to the stock just to use the same wrench on both ends. Also the 4x4 ball ends are taller so you have to take that into account when tuning. Since the threaded bit on the ball ends are a larger diameter you end up having to force it into the U-brace and the hub end. The fatter turnbuckles were also close to my non-big bore springs.

My opinion is, unless you are crashing hardcore and having the back end links pop off all the time, I don't think it's worth doing.

Thank you for the info and advice, ill pass on this option.

Any new hot setups? I haven't seen anything added on AE's site for a while and I haven't raced in 5 months.

It will be an outdoor track, DD's for Tires all around.

I just went the Lunsford Ti route for my turnbuckles. They are a lot stronger looking the the stock FT ones mine came with at least. Also Lunsford will replace them free if you bend or break one.