i think 7 in the front and 2 in the rear on the ft v2 threaded shocks.

wow, 7 in the front huh. Well that is a lot. I think 5/3 is the norm. But anyway. When you pull the trigger, then weight shifts from the front to the rear. If it shifts too much, the front wheel will "lift" and thus give you less steering. So the big question is, "Who do you have so much rear traction that you lift the front too much". There are many factors. My 8 year old used to tell me, daddy the truck wont turn. So i would take the remote and run a few laps and tell it the truck is fine. What she was doing wrong was getting on it too hard too soon. If you punch it before you hit the apex, you are going to push or spin out. I see you joined this forum 2 months ago, so I have no idea what your driving skill is. If you are an experianced driver looking for a little more on power steering as you exit the turn, then find a way to keep the front wheels on the ground. Stiffer springs in the rear, maybe and oil change, less rear toe, different tires, etc. There is no magic pill. More often than not, if you have a good base setup and the right tires for your track, the issues is your finger and properly setting up the corner. I didnt really look, but you might want to post your complete setup for people too look at. I would also, goto rc10.com and find a good baseline setup for your track conditions. And use that as a starting point. Cav's 2012 super nats setup or maifields are both good. Plus they dont have BB shocks on them, like the more current setups.

i just used 7 because that is what the instructions said for the factory team kit...

If I put a heavier weight oil in the back, like maybe 40 instead of 30, would the power shift to the rear be slower and I could retain steering longer? I think I will ask around at my track as we have some fairly good drivers...or maybe I will ask Lutz at the touney he is coming to at my track later this year ...

I would try Cavs super nats super and move on from there. I assume you did the entire FT kit setup?

haveing a truck that is to still makes it really loose to.

Icero!!! check your servo/servo saver...make sure your end points are set and the saver is tight. if it not that you probably need a softer compound in the front or move your front camber links to the inside holes both tower and hub or run less camber. sound like you have good grip in the rear if the front end is lifting to much try running anti squat in the rear (sounds wrong but a softer spring in the rear will stop the front from lifting but can push more in high speed turns and/or thicker oil in the rear would help but you at 40 so that should be good).

about to be getting into my first ae cars...getting an sc10 w/big bores...but im not getting no springs with it..which springs are most suited for the truck.

Anyone else had issue with diff thrust bolts snapping en mass? I'm getting sick to death of it happening.

Never broke a diff screw

seen it before


you can have a little debris under the thrust washer & will break the screw.

or

a miss molded or warped out-drive

or

a bad diff screw

find a buddy with a old one as the batch you are using may be defected

i have a problem im hoping you guys can help me with. i have a sc10ft. my current su is bb shocks, blue rr springs, 1.2 pist, 30 wt oil, 4th hole on the tower, outer hole on the arm, camber link is inner hole chassis, 2 washers, shaved brace, outer is all the way outside, ft bearing carriers with A block, front is yellow springs, 1.5 pist, 35 wt oil, outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm, camber link is inner hole tower, 2 washers, middle hole on c block. im running the battery all the way back, ballast weight under rr tower, and a rr sway bar. i set camber at 1° both frt and rr. the problem is, when i go into a corner, the inside rr wheel lifts off the ground and of course all the power is tranfered to it and i cant get out of the corner till the truck settles down. it doesnt matter if i go slow into a corner, or hard. but the harder i go in, the more the tire lifts off the ground. i set mine up just like one of the faster locals, and it still did it. his truck stays much flatter than mine, and he can drive thru the corner. my current su is from me trying different things.
its very frustrating watching everybody else drive by me, while my tire is in the air spinning away!! any suggestions?

I have tested with springs by Losi,Avid, and AE. I feel the AE springs while great on the buggy are not so good on the truck and SC platform. They felt inconsistent through out a run. The Avids are really good imo. I run red fronts and yellow rears with 1.5 f/1.6 r pistons,35/30 AE Oil,and 5 limters front and 3 rear. The truck handles very well with this and is very predictable.

Id be curious to hear some more input on this. I am biting the bullet and ordering a ft kit today (tired of waiting for the new platform) and was also planning on converting the ft to big bores and I was just assuming the ae's would be best but now that you say avid I am leaning that way. Any others have their input on springs?

Avid springs are very good. Some people say the avids are better, some say they are about the same. In any case, no one says the avids are worse. Keep in mind that the AE BB shocks come with different offsets. And the standard front spring for the truck is the same as the buggy front. Where as avids have a truck front. Does it mater? It depends. Check the spring rates. I run the AE BB springs and like them and share them with my b4.

I'm running the ae springs and have nothing bad to say about them,avid makes good products but sucks you have to buy them in packs instead of seperate.i run the green/white combo and my truck was really good.just a personal preference in my opinion.