Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11607319)

wait team check point changed their name? I though track power was a Tower Hobbies brand

Originally Posted by dashat2 (Post 11601508)

I have the same issue with my 4x4 usually after a hard crash. Thinking it is just a glitch in the ESC.. No other issues with it.

Originally Posted by Colbynobo (Post 11602478)

I had the same problem with the electronics that came stock on the SC10 RS. I initially fixed it by setting the speed control to forward + brake with no reverse. A buddy on mine got a SC10 RS a few months after I got mine. He had the same cutout problem and thus we had to disable his reverse as well. When I got the RTR SC10 4x4 I didn't wait around long enough to see if the same things would happen - I immediately set the stock speed control to forward + brake.
....

Originally Posted by antennachaser (Post 11603766)

Hey guys! Was browsing the forum and kinda chuckled when I saw this. I just bought my SC10 about a month ago, and had the exact same problem with it right out of the box. After buying it, I got home, took it out of the box, charged the battery and within 5 minutes of playing with it I started having the exact same problem that you're talking about. But it didn't even have to be a big jump or anything. It would just cut out whenever it felt like it. I was playing with it on the street right in front of my house. I actually took it back to where I bought it from the very next day. ( Hobbytown USA). They tried a new radio, that didn't work. They tried a new receiver, and that didn't work either. So they put a new esc in it and that didn't work. They tried many different combinations of things to try and get it work, but it just kept having the same issue. The only thing they didn't try was putting a new motor in it. They actually just wound up giving me a whole new boxed up truck. That was about a month ago and I haven't had a single issue with it, with the exception of the normal wear and tear and abuse that we put these things through. I know this probably doesn't help you much, but at least it lets you know that you're not the only one having that type of issue. By the way, mine is the 2wd version. And it was RTR. Hope that helps shed a little light on the subject. Good luck, hope you get it figured out.

Originally Posted by justinco (Post 11607396)

I figured out why the truck was stopping after jumps and on other occasions. The RTR SC10RS kit radio is setup with forward+reverse by default. In order for reverse to engage the esc stops power momentarily so the truck comes to a stop. What was happening to me is, when jumping the doubles, I hit the brake in air to control car attitude (dip the nose down). The esc thinks I am trying to engage reverse so when I land I didn't have power for a second. It also happened when using the brake to bring the rear end around in turns.

I realized this when reading the esc manual when switching the programming to forward+brake only (no reverse). So thanks to the guy that recommended that, I had 0 issues after turning off reverse. There is nothing broken after all, the issue I had was just the esc working as intended in forward+reverse mode.

Originally Posted by SIR-G-O (Post 11609256)

What is the proper ride height for the SC10? I have heard 31/30 and 29/28 or is it just a matter of preference.

Originally Posted by SIR-G-O (Post 11609256)

What is the proper ride height for the SC10? I have heard 31/30 and 29/28 or is it just a matter of preference.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11609422)

30-31 for the front and the rear is normally 1-2mm less

Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 11609568)

Don't bother with the sways IMO.

V2 shocks are fine if you do some sort of 12mm spring conversion to get the springs up off the shock bodies, or just buy the 12mm big bore shocks from Associated.

Originally Posted by SIR-G-O (Post 11609256)

What is the proper ride height for the SC10? I have heard 31/30 and 29/28 or is it just a matter of preference.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11609422)

30-31 for the front and the rear is normally 1-2mm less

Originally Posted by mtbkym01 (Post 11609614)

Ok so sway bar not needed. So AE big bores over the proline shocks, can get the prolines a fair bit cheaper

Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 11609619)

Yeah, I'd definitely take the AE shocks over the Prolines. No question.

Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 11609619)

Yeah, I'd definitely take the AE shocks over the Prolines. No question.

Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 11609700)

I'm running the V2 shocks with the box/manual piston setup with the Avid 12mm spring conversion and the Avid Yellow springs F/R.

Running AE 35wt front/30wt rear.

I run on a medium grip surface, can go from really bumpy to really smooth in one lap. Truck is dialed, very good. First three races out with it I won a 5 race winter points series (2 drops in the series). Very dialed for me. :)