I just built a ft edition and bought a revtech 13.5 motor. This is my first build ever and I am use to the rtr versions. Can yall help me out on gearing and point me in the right direction.

Im running 75/25 with a 17.5 motor in my SC10 truck.
Im also running a Team Epic motor pretty much the same as a Revtech.

With a 13.5 motor Id run a 84 tooth spur start with a 20 tooth pinion
and gear for your track.
You might be able to run a 22 tooth with 78 spur.
Be sure to check temps thou after a 3-4 min run, if you cant put your hand
on the motor your overgeared.

With my Novak 13.5, I run either 23/84 or 22/84. If you drive on a small track, I would start with a 21 and check temps at 3 minutes and 6 minutes. The 3 minute mark is to make sure its not to hot. If at 3 minutes your temp is at the Max (150°f) then pull it and gear down.
If not, keep driving for another 3 minutes for a total of 6 minutes, and check it again. If at 140-150, you can leave it or go down if it makes you more comfortable. If its low in temps you can gear it up.

So I just went though the first thread. Only took a couple weeks. :)
I feel I've learned some some, probably forgotten much more, but it's cool to have such a resource available. I bought an RS and a XXX-SCT last week. I bought both because I'm not a fanboi and wanted to see what works best FOR ME. Plus, my kids show an interest. My 8yo daughter ran the SCT in novice last week at SRS.
The RS was horrible out of the box. Most frustrating was the powerplant. It seems to be either on or off. Didn't take much throttle at all to break it loose. I would either case the front straight jump, or try to clear the triple. First thing I'm gonna do is go to the softest profile, but I am also going to swap the radio and install a receiver for my DX3c.
From reading the other thread, these are the other things I'm going to do first...
B44 hubs, bearings, tubes
ballast (does this only work with the 3.5° block, or others too?)
Either glue the rack or replace
Savox 1258
Make or buy a cap.

Since the RS already has hexes, I assume I don't need AL ones. I will replace the pins though. I'm keeping the gear diff for now.
Does the FT pin brace really help, or is more of a durability item?
Does anyone else have suggestions? I'm not looking for perfection right away, but if there's more that I should do at the same time, I'd appreciate knowing before I place an A-Main order. I should probably get some shock/diff oil, maybe springs, washers etc.

Hey all,

I picked up a 2wd SC10 that I'm hoping to race some this summer. It has a 17.5 in it now, but I'm thinking of getting a faster motor for it. I'm trying to decide between an 8.5, 10.5, or 13.5. I've asked around and people seem to be running a variety of motors. Also, outdoor season hasn't begun yet, so I cant just go off of what's winning :lol:

The 17.5 actually did okay as far as clearing jumps, and I don't want to make it so fast that it's uncontrollable, so Im kind of leaning toward the 13.5 Tekin Redline. However, id like other opinions before i buy anything. I would also like a sealed can if possible, as the 17.5 D3 I have now collects a lot of dirt.

Here's the track it will be run on:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2226845687132

thanks. i am going to buy a 20, 21, 22 , and 23. that should get me close with 84 tooth that came with the kit.

If your going with a Savox servo like the 1257/1258 go with a external BEC, a Cap wont fix all glitching issues and the servo will still be starved for power.

Go with a Castle Creations 10 amp BEC and set the voltage to 6v (or any other BEC that can handle 6 volts) and get the most from your servo.

Thats from experience.

Running. The chad due setup with some tweeks on two trucks but they both feel diff, one has a lil oversteer. Please help

To be honest, I don't like to use other racers setups. I would go back to completely stock on both trucks, then drive it on the track. Make minor adjustments in whatever it is you feel you need more or less of and test again. ONE THING AT A TIME. Be sure to make notes on what you changed.

This takes time, but if you get it down people will start asking for you setup one you get dialed in to your driving style!

The rear ballast weight will work with any rear toe block. I don't have any experience with the RS kit, so if the hex's are plastic you may run into a problem running mod. I have raced an RTR kit and can tell you that the best money you can spend is on a smoother esc and motor. The other items you have mentioned are all nice but not necessary to be competitive.

Its funny because I bought one of the trucks from a buddy and he had the chad due setup onit and I liked it only it pushed a tad and I tweeked it some and got feeling good to me. I made my original truck the same way because I was able to push the heck outta my new truck and I like it, but as I tried to duplicate it with my original truck and it was so different and I didn't understand. Now I just left the track and finnally got thr truck feeling good not perfect but can be in the a main with no prob

Go on fleabay there are guys parting out FT kits. You can usually upgrade cheaper that way. Does the RS have dog bones or CVA's? If you have the cash I would get rid of the dogbones and get CVA's all around if it does have them.

I would still get the Aluminum hexes. The plastic ones stick in the wheels and you have to dig them out when you pull the wheels off. PITA...I put them on my sons RS just for that reason.
Not sure what "Pin brace" is?
If you happen to head down to GlitchRC in Queen Creek, look me up and I'll help you out.



Look into some of the newer setups and get one that is close to the track conditions at your track.
As far being different, that could be a number of things. It can be front toe, weight or steering servo. It's something you will have better luck just looking both over and finding the difference than one of us off the Net throwing ideas at you.

That is a difference the servo, motoe,and esc but I didn't think that would b a handling issue tho I have the same setting on the as far as expo, dual rate, and drag brake on the esc, gearing and can timing. Idk man but anyway they both feel good with small differences tho man

I think he's talking about the F.T. Hinge Pin Brace :)


IMO, the F.T. aluminum hinge pin brace is not a "performance" upgrade, but rather a "durability" upgrade. I have seen a few guys at the track who are running the plastic braces on their RS SC10's, and after a gnarly wreck, the hinge pins popped out. I have the aluminum F.T. brace on my truck and have never had a single issue with that area of the truck. Hope that answers your question...