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Old 04-26-2012, 11:10 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Krio
To clarify, it is overgeared for the complete electrical system. The motor is geared fine.
The MMM is the Mamba Monster, right? Arent they rated at something like 110amps continuous?
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
The MMM is the Mamba Monster, right? Arent they rated at something like 110amps continuous?
Yes, it's the Mamba Monster, but unless he's opened up the body to have airflow across the esc like a truggy would it doesn't surprise me that it would overheat. Maybe the fan is busted to boot?
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
In the 20+ years I've been running electric, I've yet to see an over geared setup result in a cool motor.
I'm the same way....I will continue using my method for gearing a truck, or any RC for that matter.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
This is NOT correct.
So please tell us what IS correct. That's my experience with 1/8 scale setups. That's what we are talking about. I agree that is not the case with 1/10 scale.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:03 PM
  #35  
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Wow anyway.... LOL

That gearing is fine on that vehicle.. LOL don't change it unless you want to.


#1 Check the fan on the MMM, it should kick on when you first start up to verify operation, if it doesn't spin up get a replacement.

#2 Check connectors (solder joints specifically) between your ESC and battery most likely

#3 Lipo condition? Make sure you pack is up to par for what you are doing.

#4 Refresh your MMM software, update if not updated, reset to stock config then dial in again.

After those are done come back :P
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Wow anyway.... LOL

That gearing is fine on that vehicle.. LOL don't change it unless you want to.


#1 Check the fan on the MMM, it should kick on when you first start up to verify operation, if it doesn't spin up get a replacement.

#2 Check connectors (solder joints specifically) between your ESC and battery most likely

#3 Lipo condition? Make sure you pack is up to par for what you are doing.

#4 Refresh your MMM software, update if not updated, reset to stock config then dial in again.

After those are done come back :P
Thats what I was thinking. I run that same gearing on truggies with a 2200 MMM and never have heat issues. In my opinion the 2200 MMM is the best out there for E-1/8. I've loved mine over the years.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
So please tell us what IS correct. That's my experience with 1/8 scale setups. That's what we are talking about. I agree that is not the case with 1/10 scale.
I already did.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Cody01
Thats what I was thinking. I run that same gearing on truggies with a 2200 MMM and never have heat issues. In my opinion the 2200 MMM is the best out there for E-1/8. I've loved mine over the years.
Well I wouldn't go that far,, in fact that motor is rediculous overkill for a 1/8 buggy, a 550 4pole or 36x60mm 4pole is all you really need (save weight and increase run times). That motor is almost overkill for a truggy even, but with out a doubt it will be flawless on either a buggy or truggy. The prior pages of arguing are really about mute as the 2200 1y is super effecient and could can run most usable gearing options you can fit.. 12t-18t easily. That said you have to make sure you are geared properly for your track to maximize run time and lap times.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:04 PM
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I would definitely start with re-programming the ESC and Checking the fan, etc, I am not sure on the idea that the buggy is over powered and that why it over heats.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gottabaja
I would definitely start with re-programming the ESC and Checking the fan, etc, I am not sure on the idea that the buggy is over powered and that why it over heats.
Are you saying that if I ran a big v8 in a mini cooper it would some how over heat because there is too much power it's too easy to move from "a" to "b"? That's not how it works.. you can have a ton of issues but having too much motor isn't going to be your issue. Wrong voltage, wrong Kv would be the top two, but in this case he's spot on so it's got nothing to do with the motor or gearing choices.

With out knowing this guy he could have a "nitro finger" and maybe overheating the ESC from that, constant blurps with amp spikes ESPECIALLY if it's not a top quality lipo can be very stressful. Even this is not likely to cause a thermal, but when combined with a fan not working properly.. it's a sure bet.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Are you saying that if I ran a big v8 in a mini cooper it would some how over heat because there is too much power it's too easy to move from "a" to "b"? That's not how it works.. you can have a ton of issues but having too much motor isn't going to be your issue. Wrong voltage, wrong Kv would be the top two, but in this case he's spot on so it's got nothing to do with the motor or gearing choices.

With out knowing this guy he could have a "nitro finger" and maybe overheating the ESC from that, constant blurps with amp spikes ESPECIALLY if it's not a top quality lipo can be very stressful. Even this is not likely to cause a thermal, but when combined with a fan not working properly.. it's a sure bet.
You said exactly what I am saying, with your v-8 mini cooper analogy, ...... to much motor would not be the problem.......I personally think that its something simple like ESC firmware, or busted fan......Again I love your V-8 Mini Cooper analogy I was thinking of blown 572 Chevette but a Cooper works just the same LOL
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:43 PM
  #42  
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Yes I do have a nitro finger.
The 2200 motor is great when treated with respect. Been running one for the last 3 years.
The software is the latest.
It has plenty of airflow.
All connections "seem" be good.
This is an entirely new setup for me.
I believe that I am slightly overgeared. I need to retrain my throttle finger. I suspect the fan might have a issue. It runs when plugged in, but makes a little noise.
I appreciate all the input from everyone, even if everyone seems to disagree.
After the rain stops sometime in the next month, I will give an update.
E
BTW, A Tekin system is in my future, just not in my bank account yet.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:04 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by mebolson
The software is the latest.
Try going back to 1.24
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:23 AM
  #44  
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All i have to say is what's already beed said. The ESC over heating and not the moter is the ESC not having enough AMPS available for it, The motor is too big or just plain not enough cooling.

If the ESC is under sized for the motor but the motor is not undersized/over geared for the truck you would get a hot ESC and not motor. Any way Good Luck.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:38 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Krio
Keep in mind 'hot' is relative:
Hot battery, hot esc, hot motor - overgeared
Cool battery, hot esc, hot motor - probably overgeared
Cool battery, hot esc, cool motor - probably overgeared
Cool battry, cool esc, cool motor - run it
Cool battery, cool esc, hot motor - probably undergeared

For bashing (and racing for that matter) with relatively steady throttle control, you should find yourself on average using 50% on the trigger/rpm of the motor. Speed runs don't count.
I know you meant this chart is in the terms of gearing but...

Hot battery, hot esc, hot motor - overgeared and battery does not have enough C capacity of this which could also contribute to overheating on ESC

Cool battery, hot esc, hot motor - probably overgeared
Cool battery, hot esc, cool motor - probably too much motor
Cool battry, cool esc, cool motor - run it
Cool battery, cool esc, hot motor - probably overgeared.

This is as I understand motors and electronics.
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