2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
03-16-2014, 06:32 AM
So stock Rear Hex and 2mm front?
Or stock Rear Hex and 1mm front?
Thank you for your insight.
For my Driving style I brake before a corner and I try to keep a tight line around the corner then I accelerate hard after the Apex to the next Obstacle. Just like i do on my ninja Or in Motocross. I feel more comfortable doing this vs. bulldogging the turn out of control than trying to hang on to as I try to exit the apex. This is why I like a really low diff oil IN THIS BUGGY. Also, thinner oil in the rear can easier to control when accelerating. I did try many of the tekno setup. Once I went to this diff setup it was NIGHT and Day. FOR our Track. I really Thought going thinner in the rear will Increases my cornering Traction?
Antimullet: Pull that rear toe back into 2.5 or 3.0 max in a loose outdoor track.
I thought the more Toe in the rear to a Point you gain more stable exiting on-power before for loose blown out track?
But I will try what you said. So over all rear 3 toe in with the BMI Racing pills?
ANT: Also 4k is pretty low for the center diff in loose conditions. I generally run 5-10-5 in loose conditions. It take some of that power and puts it up front which also helps the fish tailing.
I understand your thoughts on this. I know at times lower diff oil in the center can help on blown out track. And driving style do effect diff out too. I will test what you posted sir.
The shorten the wheelbase maybe what I’m missing too. Great!! And less punch. Time to poop out the viper card. Thanx sir.
All great info.
Or stock Rear Hex and 1mm front?
Thank you for your insight.
For my Driving style I brake before a corner and I try to keep a tight line around the corner then I accelerate hard after the Apex to the next Obstacle. Just like i do on my ninja Or in Motocross. I feel more comfortable doing this vs. bulldogging the turn out of control than trying to hang on to as I try to exit the apex. This is why I like a really low diff oil IN THIS BUGGY. Also, thinner oil in the rear can easier to control when accelerating. I did try many of the tekno setup. Once I went to this diff setup it was NIGHT and Day. FOR our Track. I really Thought going thinner in the rear will Increases my cornering Traction?
Antimullet: Pull that rear toe back into 2.5 or 3.0 max in a loose outdoor track.
I thought the more Toe in the rear to a Point you gain more stable exiting on-power before for loose blown out track?
But I will try what you said. So over all rear 3 toe in with the BMI Racing pills?
ANT: Also 4k is pretty low for the center diff in loose conditions. I generally run 5-10-5 in loose conditions. It take some of that power and puts it up front which also helps the fish tailing.
I understand your thoughts on this. I know at times lower diff oil in the center can help on blown out track. And driving style do effect diff out too. I will test what you posted sir.
The shorten the wheelbase maybe what I’m missing too. Great!! And less punch. Time to poop out the viper card. Thanx sir.
All great info.
03-16-2014, 07:27 AM
Thanks sir.
4k and 5k is not much difference.
But I will test your ideas too.
4k and 5k is not much difference.
But I will test your ideas too.
03-16-2014, 10:55 AM
Tech Adept
I'm not sure if the EB48.2 has been updated to the new mount yet, if it has it would have been in the last couple of months. My guess is it hasn't been updated, but not sure. I'm Not talking about the lightened TKR5210X mount.
I'm talking about the new updated mount TKR5210. If you look at the arms where the motor slides on and then you look closely at the bottom arm you will see that the slot where the screw slides is not open on the end anymore.
I'm talking about the new updated mount TKR5210. If you look at the arms where the motor slides on and then you look closely at the bottom arm you will see that the slot where the screw slides is not open on the end anymore.
03-16-2014, 12:16 PM
I'm not sure if the EB48.2 has been updated to the new mount yet, if it has it would have been in the last couple of months. My guess is it hasn't been updated, but not sure. I'm Not talking about the lightened TKR5210X mount.
I'm talking about the new updated mount TKR5210. If you look at the arms where the motor slides on and then you look closely at the bottom arm you will see that the slot where the screw slides is not open on the end anymore.
I'm talking about the new updated mount TKR5210. If you look at the arms where the motor slides on and then you look closely at the bottom arm you will see that the slot where the screw slides is not open on the end anymore.
03-16-2014, 01:11 PM
Motorman,
The first thing I noticed is the diff oils. I think overall it's too soft. I'd start with 7/5/3. The shock oils seem light. I'm running 40/35 with 8x1.3 piston. I'd also go to 105 for the front droop. I'm guessing that meant to type LRC for rear insert? I'd also set the front camber to 1.5 and the rear to 1.5 - 2. I'd drop the rear shock position one hole on the tower and lower the front camber link to the middle hole and short on the hub. I've found that by spacing the rear hub by +1 provides a little more mid steering. What tires are you using? Have you thought about going back to bladders? I think you'll find it more consistent over the emulsion?
Hope this helps,
Mark
The first thing I noticed is the diff oils. I think overall it's too soft. I'd start with 7/5/3. The shock oils seem light. I'm running 40/35 with 8x1.3 piston. I'd also go to 105 for the front droop. I'm guessing that meant to type LRC for rear insert? I'd also set the front camber to 1.5 and the rear to 1.5 - 2. I'd drop the rear shock position one hole on the tower and lower the front camber link to the middle hole and short on the hub. I've found that by spacing the rear hub by +1 provides a little more mid steering. What tires are you using? Have you thought about going back to bladders? I think you'll find it more consistent over the emulsion?
Hope this helps,
Mark
03-16-2014, 01:32 PM
Looking for a good condition .2 roller, PM me!
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
03-16-2014, 01:33 PM
Motorman,
The first thing I noticed is the diff oils. I think overall it's too soft. I'd start with 7/5/3. The shock oils seem light. I'm running 40/35 with 8x1.3 piston. I'd also go to 105 for the front droop. I'm guessing that meant to type LRC for rear insert? I'd also set the front camber to 1.5 and the rear to 1.5 - 2. I'd drop the rear shock position one hole on the tower and lower the front camber link to the middle hole and short on the hub. I've found that by spacing the rear hub by +1 provides a little more mid steering. What tires are you using? Have you thought about going back to bladders? I think you'll find it more consistent over the emulsion?
Hope this helps,
Mark
The first thing I noticed is the diff oils. I think overall it's too soft. I'd start with 7/5/3. The shock oils seem light. I'm running 40/35 with 8x1.3 piston. I'd also go to 105 for the front droop. I'm guessing that meant to type LRC for rear insert? I'd also set the front camber to 1.5 and the rear to 1.5 - 2. I'd drop the rear shock position one hole on the tower and lower the front camber link to the middle hole and short on the hub. I've found that by spacing the rear hub by +1 provides a little more mid steering. What tires are you using? Have you thought about going back to bladders? I think you'll find it more consistent over the emulsion?
Hope this helps,
Mark
Its Cold here in oklahoma right now. But I will go up in shock oil once it gets warmer.
I will try the 105 Front droop
Yes the LRC inserts.
Great Info on the Front Camber and tower.
Tires that day were Impacts.
I Was thinking of trying the Non-Emulsion Shock caps. ..
Thank you all.
03-16-2014, 01:49 PM
03-16-2014, 02:03 PM
Definately shorten the wheelbase. Try running the longest position on the rear hub for the camber link and short and in the middle on the tower. This was huge for my car. I like 5-5-5 in the diffs. The thinner the center diff oil is, the less rear wheelspin or rear drive you will get. Too thick will light up the rear tires and make it loose and too thin will not have enough rear drive and will be loose. Too thin will also burn up quicker. 5k seemed to work well. If you shoot me an email to [email protected], i will send you my setup for a loose track.
Also- while more toe helps there is a point you can Go pass and it makes the car hook around too abruptly. I found this to be the case going past 3-3.5 toe when it is real loose and blown out/dry.
03-16-2014, 02:21 PM
03-17-2014, 12:11 PM
Motorman I defer to Jason in the diff oil setup! Jay can I get your loose track setup as well? I want to experiment here I'll shoot you an email. Thanks!
Also- while more toe helps there is a point you can Go pass and it makes the car hook around too abruptly. I found this to be the case going past 3-3.5 toe when it is real loose and blown out/dry.
Also- while more toe helps there is a point you can Go pass and it makes the car hook around too abruptly. I found this to be the case going past 3-3.5 toe when it is real loose and blown out/dry.
I agree with you on the rear toe. Once I go past 4 degrees, the car over rotates and doesn't square up well. Its just too much. 4 worked great for me.
03-17-2014, 12:12 PM
BTW, I only removed the center brace.
03-17-2014, 12:37 PM
i personally prefer when the rear will come around a little faster.
03-17-2014, 12:58 PM
Uhgg, I think my set up sheet keeps getting crap deleted on it every time I save it. I took a screen shot of it. Let me know if there is anything you cant read.
I agree with you on the rear toe. Once I go past 4 degrees, the car over rotates and doesn't square up well. Its just too much. 4 worked great for me.
I agree with you on the rear toe. Once I go past 4 degrees, the car over rotates and doesn't square up well. Its just too much. 4 worked great for me.
03-17-2014, 01:49 PM
AE