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Old 12-30-2013 | 08:28 PM
  #10471  
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Originally Posted by FastPete
Don't want to start a war here I have a aluminum servo horn coming. But will the stock one be ok installed tight and properly?
Unless they have been updated since the SCT410 I wouldn't expect it to last past a couple of packs at race speed
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Old 12-30-2013 | 08:36 PM
  #10472  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Ok couple quickies.. putting the kit together.. not going as smooth as many others but not awful either. I must say the diff spacers in this design are a pain, but small thing.. the real issue is the arms, they should be free flowing but with a 3.5 toe setup they are locked up pretty good.. do I remove a little material or am I missing something? Is there no way to get a 3' toe? What are the inserts w/ the two dots vs the one, the manual only seems to show setups w/ the single dot on them? I also see why people say keep extra a-arms these plastics are def a different material than many other manu's.
As far as getting the arms to be free, I used a Hudy arm reamer, it worked flawlessly, no issues.
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Old 12-30-2013 | 08:55 PM
  #10473  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Ok couple quickies.. putting the kit together.. not going as smooth as many others but not awful either. I must say the diff spacers in this design are a pain, but small thing.. the real issue is the arms, they should be free flowing but with a 3.5 toe setup they are locked up pretty good.. do I remove a little material or am I missing something? Is there no way to get a 3' toe? What are the inserts w/ the two dots vs the one, the manual only seems to show setups w/ the single dot on them? I also see why people say keep extra a-arms[B] these plastics are def a different material than many other manu's.
Yeah, they're not all flexy and warped like losi's.
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Old 12-30-2013 | 11:29 PM
  #10474  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Yeah, they're not all flexy and warped like losi's.
now now :P a slight warp vs a DNF? Let's hope it doesn't come to that though 90% done w/ the build. Bed for now..
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Old 12-31-2013 | 12:12 AM
  #10475  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Yeah, they're not all flexy and warped like losi's.
Ya, my buddy who just came from a Kyosho mp9 tkii to a losi 3.0e mentioned the difference in plastic, the Losi a-arm plastic is way flexy in comparison to Kyosho & Tekno.
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Old 12-31-2013 | 12:46 PM
  #10476  
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Anyone running 6s lipo w/ the tekin 1400kv motor? Just looking for a gearing start point. TY What is everyone running w/ 4s 1900kv setups?
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Old 12-31-2013 | 01:12 PM
  #10477  
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18T.
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Old 12-31-2013 | 02:23 PM
  #10478  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Anyone running 6s lipo w/ the tekin 1400kv motor? Just looking for a gearing start point. TY What is everyone running w/ 4s 1900kv setups?
Im running a 19t for my 1900
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Old 12-31-2013 | 02:48 PM
  #10479  
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Hello guys!!! My name is sidney tripp an I am addicted to Rc racing.
And my 6yr son is just starting too.
I just ordered my tekno eb48.2 . Is there any building tips to look at? Diff oils? I did race kyosho buggy so I do have the springs and 1.3 x 8 pistons all ready. I have seen these buggy in action and take a lot of beatings so parts will be basic and understood. Arms -shock shafts - graphite towers only cause I like the carbon.and drive shafts. And spur. And bearings. Extra body.and the alum hinge pin mounts. What else would u all buy?
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Old 12-31-2013 | 03:09 PM
  #10480  
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Originally Posted by UK.hardcore
18T.
Originally Posted by micrors4guy
Im running a 19t for my 1900
Thanks.. I'll start w/ 16t and go from there.. my setup rpm is a touch higher w/ 1400kv on 6s.
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Old 12-31-2013 | 03:15 PM
  #10481  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Anyone running 6s lipo w/ the tekin 1400kv motor? Just looking for a gearing start point. TY What is everyone running w/ 4s 1900kv setups?
Im running a Tekin 1400kv with Eco 6s packs. Currently running a 17t pinion.
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Old 12-31-2013 | 04:02 PM
  #10482  
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
Hello guys!!! My name is sidney tripp an I am addicted to Rc racing.
And my 6yr son is just starting too.
I just ordered my tekno eb48.2 . Is there any building tips to look at? Diff oils? I did race kyosho buggy so I do have the springs and 1.3 x 8 pistons all ready. I have seen these buggy in action and take a lot of beatings so parts will be basic and understood. Arms -shock shafts - graphite towers only cause I like the carbon.and drive shafts. And spur. And bearings. Extra body.and the alum hinge pin mounts. What else would u all buy?
Save on the aluminum mounts and carry a spare front shock tower. I see you are getting the carbon one so keep the stock one on hand. Also a wing mount.
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Old 12-31-2013 | 05:58 PM
  #10483  
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As ebuggy lite is trying to take off, does anybody make (or Tekno plan to make) a front shock/tower guard? This would both protect carbon towers if used, but also help protect the track from digging the towers into indoor dirt that probably isn't used to ebuggy towers.

Also, is there a thread I'm missing that is dedicated to the eb48 lite setups?
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Old 12-31-2013 | 06:07 PM
  #10484  
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Originally Posted by justpoet
As ebuggy lite is trying to take off, does anybody make (or Tekno plan to make) a front shock/tower guard? This would both protect carbon towers if used, but also help protect the track from digging the towers into indoor dirt that probably isn't used to ebuggy towers.

Also, is there a thread I'm missing that is dedicated to the eb48 lite setups?
What are you considering a super light? Im about 80grams over min weight with a steel spurr. Remove that and throw some ti turnbuckles and I would be at minimum weight. Also my bce chassisjust came back so that is another few grams removed.

I have a old viper 4.5 sc motor I could throw in with a 2s to try but my buggy has been reall good in the current form.
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Old 12-31-2013 | 06:25 PM
  #10485  
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The current spec I've seen thrown around is 3200g as max weight and many places still require 2s. That's a bit above an eb48 weight on 2s, and well above a converted sct410 with a light chassis. The class is still in the forming stages though.
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