2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
05-11-2013, 12:03 PM
#6361
Ummmm, my original eb48 diffs are fine. No leakage and everything works fine. Good arms? Don't need em', just don't drive like an arse. Stock springs? They're fine too. Stock pistons? They work great for me. New servo saver spring? Don't need that either, stock one works fine. Sanding, yes i did have to sand the shock parts from the tree. Servo horn, yeah it is a good insurance item to have. I run the ofna one, but my buddy has run the plastic stock one ever since he got his, with no issues whatsoever. The tone of your post is kind of passive-agressive in the fact that you make it seem like it has a lot of problems that need to be fixed, which it doesn't.
I would want people to be honest with me about it...
05-11-2013, 02:39 PM
#6362
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Gearing question.
I have a Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO ESC along with a Gforce 4074 4-Pole Sensored Brushless Motor (1/8 Scale Racing)-2250KV.
With stock spur and 17t, the acceleration is absolutely brutally fast, but I feel like I'm topped out way to early. It feels like I could go up 3-4 teeth easy. The motor is also coming off pretty hot (haven't cut holes in the body yet to allow ventilation. So my concern is I haven't seen anyone really talking about much over 17t. Do I have a bad motor or something else whacky with this setup? Should I go bigger on pinion or down on spur (thinking down on spur)? If down on spur, any clue what will work as initial glance on tekno's site only shows 44t spurs (normal and lightened)?
I have a Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO ESC along with a Gforce 4074 4-Pole Sensored Brushless Motor (1/8 Scale Racing)-2250KV.
With stock spur and 17t, the acceleration is absolutely brutally fast, but I feel like I'm topped out way to early. It feels like I could go up 3-4 teeth easy. The motor is also coming off pretty hot (haven't cut holes in the body yet to allow ventilation. So my concern is I haven't seen anyone really talking about much over 17t. Do I have a bad motor or something else whacky with this setup? Should I go bigger on pinion or down on spur (thinking down on spur)? If down on spur, any clue what will work as initial glance on tekno's site only shows 44t spurs (normal and lightened)?
05-11-2013, 02:45 PM
#6363
So my center diff case melted where the planetary gears press against the inner wall.
It clearly let go during an acceleration pass where the front end lifted and front wheels were off the ground, causing "over drive" to the front. So the center diff was working very hard at failure.
Upon disassembly, there were lots of "plastic chunks in the slurry. I'm guessing the diff oil leaked over maybe 25 runs, as it was not full.
So
How many have had this kind of failure?
Is there a recommended disassemble and inspect interval?
Other comments?
It clearly let go during an acceleration pass where the front end lifted and front wheels were off the ground, causing "over drive" to the front. So the center diff was working very hard at failure.
Upon disassembly, there were lots of "plastic chunks in the slurry. I'm guessing the diff oil leaked over maybe 25 runs, as it was not full.
So
How many have had this kind of failure?
Is there a recommended disassemble and inspect interval?
Other comments?
05-11-2013, 02:49 PM
#6365
I bought my eb48 the day it released. I'm still running the original diffs, servo saver spring and 3 out of the 4 arms. Pistons and springs are tuning options. No car is perfect out of the box, but I feel that you could run a box stock eb48 with the stock setup and be competitive. The only part you obsolutely need to upgrade is the servo arm.
The updated diffs aren't faulty like the originals that should have been trashed...its an expensive fix. After the good arms, springs, pistons, servo horn, new diffs, new servo saver sporing and some random sanding she'll be a champ...
Oh and don't feel bad, some people melted there cases during break in...the new diffs don't require break in.
Oh and don't feel bad, some people melted there cases during break in...the new diffs don't require break in.
05-11-2013, 05:30 PM
#6366
Tech Master
Gearing question.
I have a Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO ESC along with a Gforce 4074 4-Pole Sensored Brushless Motor (1/8 Scale Racing)-2250KV.
With stock spur and 17t, the acceleration is absolutely brutally fast, but I feel like I'm topped out way to early. It feels like I could go up 3-4 teeth easy. The motor is also coming off pretty hot (haven't cut holes in the body yet to allow ventilation. So my concern is I haven't seen anyone really talking about much over 17t. Do I have a bad motor or something else whacky with this setup? Should I go bigger on pinion or down on spur (thinking down on spur)? If down on spur, any clue what will work as initial glance on tekno's site only shows 44t spurs (normal and lightened)?
I have a Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO ESC along with a Gforce 4074 4-Pole Sensored Brushless Motor (1/8 Scale Racing)-2250KV.
With stock spur and 17t, the acceleration is absolutely brutally fast, but I feel like I'm topped out way to early. It feels like I could go up 3-4 teeth easy. The motor is also coming off pretty hot (haven't cut holes in the body yet to allow ventilation. So my concern is I haven't seen anyone really talking about much over 17t. Do I have a bad motor or something else whacky with this setup? Should I go bigger on pinion or down on spur (thinking down on spur)? If down on spur, any clue what will work as initial glance on tekno's site only shows 44t spurs (normal and lightened)?
I run the same ESC and the 2-Pole 2250kv sensored motor. 17t was coming off too hot. I swapped down to a 16 and got around to plugging in the programming box only to find that the ESC comes with 15 degrees timing already on. After changing the pinion and zeroing the timing, the motor is much cooler, but still a little warm for my liking. About 165ish after 10 minutes at race-pace. So, 15t pinion on the way.
If you're topping out early with a 17t, how long is the straight on your track? Ours is 120ft and I could barely achieve full speed before having to brake to turn.
05-11-2013, 05:32 PM
#6367
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
I run the same ESC and the 2-Pole 2250kv sensored motor. 17t was coming off too hot. I swapped down to a 16 and got around to plugging in the programming box only to find that the ESC comes with 15 degrees timing already on. After changing the pinion and zeroing the timing, the motor is much cooler, but still a little warm for my liking. About 165ish after 10 minutes at race-pace. So, 15t pinion on the way.
If you're topping out early with a 17t, how long is the straight on your track? Ours is 120ft and I could barely achieve full speed before having to brake to turn.
If you're topping out early with a 17t, how long is the straight on your track? Ours is 120ft and I could barely achieve full speed before having to brake to turn.
05-11-2013, 05:47 PM
#6368
Tech Master
05-11-2013, 05:56 PM
#6370
I bought my eb48 the day it released. I'm still running the original diffs, servo saver spring and 3 out of the 4 arms. Pistons and springs are tuning options. No car is perfect out of the box, but I feel that you could run a box stock eb48 with the stock setup and be competitive. The only part you obsolutely need to upgrade is the servo arm.
05-11-2013, 06:00 PM
#6371
Tech Master
05-11-2013, 07:29 PM
#6373
If you're topped out at half way down the straightaway you definitely need to go up in pinion. Also, you mentioned your motor is coming off hot, have you actually temped it?
There could be a chance your motor is mislabeled, I've seen it once before. If you have another motor to try out or can borrow one, run it with your current gearing and see what it does.
There could be a chance your motor is mislabeled, I've seen it once before. If you have another motor to try out or can borrow one, run it with your current gearing and see what it does.
05-11-2013, 07:42 PM
#6374
Finally got to race my EB48. It jumps like a dream and has tons of acceleration but sweet tap dancing Jesus!!! the rear end on this thing is loose! On the stock setup I was fighting it for the first two quals. It took maximum incline on the rear shocks, far outside hole for rear link, 20wt shock oil, yellow soft springs, and 3000wt oil in the rear diff to get where it was manageable. Add brand new tires and even with all that it still breaks traction while on throttle or out of a curve. Very frustrating.
05-11-2013, 07:43 PM
#6375
Tech Apprentice