Completely agree with this, I've seen a few buddies cook bearings by over tightening the wheel nuts. Balancing your tires will reduce wobble and stress on the drive train, but I doubt it's the reason you're going through bearings.

@ the new radio question:

My new MT-4 should be here tomorrow. After extensive research and physically handling every radio I could get near, not only did the MT-4 feel the best in my hand, it offers the best bang for your buck with the 2 receiver deal going on. I'm giddy with excitement. It's been 15 years since I had a real transmitter. My Magnum JR was the last "real" radio.

By design, if you have the correct spacers/shims and crush tube you can't pinch the bearings too tight with the wheel nut. If you can something isn't right.

Youre right, that is how it SHOULD work. lol

Its always been an issue with AE stuff over the years. They provide the crush tubes but they arent wide enough. Only one time were the tubes too wide where i had to wet sand a set of crush tubes for a Tc3 to allow the bearings to sit in the hub properly. I used those same tubes from hub to hub for as long as i owned a Tc3.

In any B or T series ive owned, i have always had to tighten my rear wheelnuts, and back it off a tick to make sure the axle had about 1/32 of play between the inner races of the bearing. The bad thing about this is your locknut needs to be in good shape.

You can add shims in the hubs to correct the issue, but you need really thin ones, and they can be a pain to realign if you pull the axles out.

I'm having an issue with the retaining pins on my cvds, I've gone thru many pins and cvds due to the pins coming out and destroying the shaft. I tighten down the set screw as much as possible, but always seem to work their way out. Is anyone else having or had this issue before? I thought about super gluing them into the cvd but was afraid I wouldn't be able to ever get them out. I've tried the stock pins and the FT pins. All come loose. Any suggestions? I am talking about the retaining pin where the two pieces of the cvd comes together..not the pin that holds the actual wheel in place. Thanks
Lee

I am assuming you are using threadlock compound on the set screws.

From what I can recall, you can even run 2 set screws if you want.

I would also use heat shrink tubing around the outside of the CVD to hold the pins in place. Kind of like the snap rings other cars come with to do basically the same thing.

You should be able to find rings made for your cvd's to capture the pins. Also use blue loc-tite on the grub screw in the middle of the joining pin. Some people report that shrink wrap also does the trick.

I actually don't take mine apart anymore. I spray them out with motor cleaner while they're still assembled, then relube with offroad motorcycle chain lube.

Edit: Darn you cain, you got there first!

Yes I use the AE factory team blue thread lock on everything. Somehow those little SOBs still slide out(the pins). I will check on the second set screw option, and will deff consider the shrink tubing. Thanks alot man

Thank you too, I appreciate the quick feedback. Another reason I love T4 hobbyist, always willing to help out!

you cannot use 2 set screws since only 1 side of the coupler is threaded. Another trick some do is make a small flat spot on the cvd pin so the set screw has an area to bite on. I big thing that causes these pins to walk out is when people do not have a good set of drivers ( they are using the crappy allen wrenches that come with the kit) or do not let the lock tite dry before running them. Between a good driver to get it tight enough, lock tite ( letting it dry), and a small flat spot on the cvd pin, you should never have an issue again.

interesting, I'll have to look again but I do recall doing that on my T4 and B4s prior, maybe something has changed.

Older MIP cvds don't thread both sides of the thick cross bar.

New Associated CVA's thread all the way through.

ahh, thats probably why. My sets were older. Good to know. Sorry Cain, you were right.

heck I oftened wonder why 2 set screws weren't used, not only from a more securing factor, but, since that part is rotating, having just 1 side with the set screw kind of unbalances things. It may be a non-issue due to weight, but, who knows.

Yeah makes sense, 2 sets screws would definetly help. Now with the clip rings, i do not even use the set screws. I use the ring clip and heatshrink. Cain, do you ever do any of the MN nitro series races? We should meet up and do some racin!

I'd like to but with them being multiday events couldn't.

That whole Super Saturday Electric Series though I am hoping to make an appearance and at lest finish ahead of somebody. :D

Right now though, I am very excited for Jon Carlson's track. The man can build some killer tracks and that location at the motorcross facility in Glyndon is going to be awesome.

You shoudl come up sometime and check it out too!