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-   -   RC10T4.1 Thread. (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/580759-rc10t4-1-thread.html)

Drtdvl5 03-18-2012 04:22 PM

http://https://mail-attachment.googl...-pIfwBeynPCuu4

Hinecken 03-18-2012 07:36 PM


Originally Posted by cam94z28 (Post 10484066)
I haven't popped the ball cups/dogbones out yet, but I did move the motor to my Brushless Evader, and it's working fine. It won't pull wheelies like a 3900+kv, but it is definitely not binding. I did notice a very slight wobble in the spur but my EXT2 has twice the wobble and still meshes fine. I spun the spur with the wheels off, and there was no noticeable binding in any particular spot. I also grabbed the hubs and spun the same and opposite directions, and there doesn't appear to be binding there either. That I can tell by hand anyway.

I will pop the dogbones off and spin the outdrives by hand to see if there's any grit.



I usually either use a piece of notebook paper, or an old receipt. I set pinion spacing with the motor bolts slightly loose, then mesh the gears with the paper in between and tighten. As far as I can tell the mesh is ok. There is a tiny bit of play that I can barely feel if i hold the pinion and move the spur back and forth. Also, probably not a big deal, but when it is cold and moving freely, if I rev the motor in the air, one wheel stops before the other.

This is a truck that barely has any time on it. I doubt it would be anything like a sticking bearing, unless it's inside the tranny. 3300kv really shouldn't kill a tranny that was designed for it.

2 things

1. Using notebook paper isnt the best way to set your mesh. I find most spurs are not perfectly round. Better to adjust manually and check the play in the gears all the way around the spur until it feels even.

2. Loosen your tranny screws

ovalracer1m 03-18-2012 08:29 PM


Originally Posted by Jake S (Post 10483596)
anyone? :D

Thinkin about trying red front bb springs. I have a set and feel much closer to te AE blue spring then the losi green does. I won't be able to try them for a couple weeks though....

cam94z28 03-18-2012 09:20 PM


Originally Posted by Hinecken (Post 10485079)
2 things

1. Using notebook paper isnt the best way to set your mesh. I find most spurs are not perfectly round. Better to adjust manually and check the play in the gears all the way around the spur until it feels even.

2. Loosen your tranny screws

So you're saying to set the mesh "by feel"? That's how I used to do it on the EXT2, until I read in several places that paper was more consistent. I will try by feel the next time I adjust it.

What is the purpose of loosening the screws? Are you suggesting maybe 1/4 turn? Or to loosen and re-tighten. I would think the bearings inside would need to be evenly pressed against the sides of the tranny case.

ovalracer1m 03-18-2012 09:29 PM


Originally Posted by cam94z28 (Post 10485578)
So you're saying to set the mesh "by feel"? That's how I used to do it on the EXT2, until I read in several places that paper was more consistent. I will try by feel the next time I adjust it.

What is the purpose of loosening the screws? Are you suggesting maybe 1/4 turn? Or to loosen and re-tighten. I would think the bearings inside would need to be evenly pressed against the sides of the tranny case.

Doing it by feel is the best way if you know what to feel for. Just make sure to check it in several spots. The paper method is for people that don't know what proper mesh feels like.
If you over tighten the trans screws it over tightens the case and bind the trans up. Put blue lock tite on the screws and just barely snug them up. The lock tite will keep them from coming loose.

rekim 03-20-2012 02:34 PM

so i am finally able to drive the T4.1 FT that i bought last xmas. I found something very weird, which i dont know if it is common or if it is even an issue.

if i hold the truck in the air, so there are no wheels touching the ground, and pull the throttle, the rear wheels shake something fierce. they make a sound like the CVD are slamming around the shafts. now if i push the arms so the rear wheels are level, like it is when it is on the ground, they spin much smoother.

now i would think they should be smooth both ways, but i wasnt sure if maybe i messed something up somewhere.


note: the truck has the AE gear diff, not the ball diff it came with. i switched that out because i didnt want to deal with a ball diff, but it does it with both the ball diff and the gear diff.

any and all help is greatly appreciated

crazyjr 03-20-2012 04:41 PM


Originally Posted by rekim (Post 10493739)
so i am finally able to drive the T4.1 FT that i bought last xmas. I found something very weird, which i dont know if it is common or if it is even an issue.

if i hold the truck in the air, so there are no wheels touching the ground, and pull the throttle, the rear wheels shake something fierce. they make a sound like the CVD are slamming around the shafts. now if i push the arms so the rear wheels are level, like it is when it is on the ground, they spin much smoother.

now i would think they should be smooth both ways, but i wasnt sure if maybe i messed something up somewhere.


note: the truck has the AE gear diff, not the ball diff it came with. i switched that out because i didnt want to deal with a ball diff, but it does it with both the ball diff and the gear diff.

any and all help is greatly appreciated


That's a flaw in CVD's, Not necessarily in design, more like physics. They tend to try to stay straight and will fight to do so. The old style universals (kind of like traxxas sliders) tend to run smoother at angles

rekim 03-20-2012 05:48 PM

so is that normal on this truck? i might have extra dogbones from a different truck. if that will fix it, i might swap them out

rifraf 03-20-2012 05:57 PM


Originally Posted by rekim (Post 10494522)
so is that normal on this truck? i might have extra dogbones from a different truck. if that will fix it, i might swap them out

Normal it is..just put a dab of black grease in the diff halfs where the cvd slides in.it will run smoother and reduce wear....:nod:

Hinecken 03-20-2012 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by rekim (Post 10494522)
so is that normal on this truck? i might have extra dogbones from a different truck. if that will fix it, i might swap them out

Don't swap them out, CVD's are still better performing parts than dogbones despite the wobble at extreme angles. Balancing your wheels will also cut down on the wobble and provide benefits everywhere else on the track.

njnewc 03-20-2012 08:26 PM

I am looking to upgrade radios. I currently have a M11 with 2.4 airtronics setup. I love the radio but I want to try something else. What r u guys using and what do u suggest. Thanks

ufoDziner 03-20-2012 08:35 PM

Batteries arrived from hobbyking. So, suspension is back to normal with the stock plastic chassis. Once my new speedo gets here I'll put it on the scales and see how much difference there is in weight. My electrics are laid out a little differently as well, so I'll do my best to get the distribution the same as it was for a direct comparison of stock chassis to rcrd chassis. The plan is currently to have the esc mounted on the top of the battery strap directly in front of the shock tower. Thursday night can't come soon enough!

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...320_202618.jpg

dougwalter911 03-20-2012 08:38 PM


Originally Posted by njnewc (Post 10495410)
I am looking to upgrade radios. I currently have a M11 with 2.4 airtronics setup. I love the radio but I want to try something else. What r u guys using and what do u suggest. Thanks

RadioPost is amazing

MaplestreetRC 03-20-2012 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by rekim (Post 10493739)
so i am finally able to drive the T4.1 FT that i bought last xmas. I found something very weird, which i dont know if it is common or if it is even an issue.

if i hold the truck in the air, so there are no wheels touching the ground, and pull the throttle, the rear wheels shake something fierce. they make a sound like the CVD are slamming around the shafts. now if i push the arms so the rear wheels are level, like it is when it is on the ground, they spin much smoother.

now i would think they should be smooth both ways, but i wasnt sure if maybe i messed something up somewhere.


note: the truck has the AE gear diff, not the ball diff it came with. i switched that out because i didnt want to deal with a ball diff, but it does it with both the ball diff and the gear diff.

any and all help is greatly appreciated

Great question, I just got one of these and noticed the same thing. I figured it was the lack of balance in the tires that was causing it. They shake really bad whether I press the arms up or not.



Originally Posted by Hinecken (Post 10494871)
Don't swap them out, CVD's are still better performing parts than dogbones despite the wobble at extreme angles. Balancing your wheels will also cut down on the wobble and provide benefits everywhere else on the track.

I've already roasted one bearing in the rear, is it solely an issue of tire balance then?

DaveW 03-20-2012 09:01 PM


Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC (Post 10495546)
I've already roasted one bearing in the rear, is it solely an issue of tire balance then?

Be sure you arent pinching the bearings in the hubs when the wheels are tight. Try holding the hub with the axle out of the trans. Put the tire on the axle and spin it. It should seemingly spin for days. Now tighten the nut that holds on the tire. Spin it again... does it spin as freely as before? If not then you are likely roasting the wheel bearings because of this...


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