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Originally Posted by brent701
(Post 10554849)
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10554812)
because that are not available to the public yet...
I know at least one person that has no sponsors that has a set of front and rear on his T4.1 and they feel very nice. and said he bought them at a local hobby shop. |
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10554866)
avid directly. so must hurt to be lied to on the local level
I shall rewrite it. I touched them. I drove the truck with them installed. I held the cool white/clear AVID spring cases in my hand I know the person personally. I am not trying to argue with ya about it. I just stating I have seen/touched/driven them and He got them at a local hobby shop. |
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10554835)
yeah the losi green front spring is too soft for the t4 with the standard #2/30wt.
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Originally Posted by brent701
(Post 10554904)
I ran Losi Silver rear on the front. was still to soft with 32.5wt.
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Originally Posted by brent701
(Post 10554900)
seen/touched/driven them and He got them at a local hobby shop.
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10554922)
if avid hasnt released them i highly doubt any hobby shop has them.
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10554917)
silver rear is 3.4, green front is 3.5, and its still soft. feels good with 32.5 and a #3 tho
I have yet found a 100% answer on that, lol |
Originally Posted by brent701
(Post 10555013)
Are you using the Front 22T springs or 22 springs?
I have yet found a 100% answer on that, lol From what i have seen the avid red buggy front is 3.2 white rear is 1.8 red rear is 2.1 reds are stiffer then yellows, and whites are softer then yellows. no idea about truck fronts. |
Originally Posted by ovalracer1m
(Post 10552895)
the reason why is to keep the shocks roughly the same length. You loose down travel with a longer bodied shock. I ran them before trimming them and felt decent. I definetly lost side bite and steering with them this way though. The whole point to doing this swap was to get a higher quality, smoother feeling shock while still having the same shock lengths, etc. The fronts are much longer and the rear are only a bit off. You take the top cap off, take measurements on where they need to be, then trim the body down evenly.
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
(Post 10553582)
To everyone that chimed in on my motor/esc question, thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
The reason I dislike posting questions like that is because it is a guarantee the majority of responses will not be choosing between options A or B, they will add option C. I've read all the major threads on this forum and done my research on the popular motors and ESCs. Including Tekin, Orion, LRP, Novak (Havoc Pro SC with X Drive as well as Kinetic), HobbyWing, SpeedPassion, and Castle (MMP, not interested in the others). Every single one of those threads has multiple users with equipment problems. The more I read, the more it becomes clear that there is a chance of purchasing a DOA or soon to be Dead unit from any of the companies listed above. Simply put, Sh!t Happens, and it can happen to all of them. Please allow me to rephrase my original question. If every electronic ESC and Motor manufacturer in the Milky Way Galaxy ceased to exist today EXCEPT for Hobbywing and Novak, and the only products that didn't spontaneously vaporize in their warehouses were the 120a ESC/8.5t and Havoc Pro SC with X-Drive/Ballistic 8.5t, which would you choose and why? I have my reasons for settling on these two particular brands and models and after 2 months of research, will no longer consider others. I just can't seem to make a decision between the two, which is strange considering 97% my career involves making purchases. Again, I sincerely appreciate all of the responses, and respectfully decline all option C's. EDIT: Anyone have any experience with these guys http://www.falconsekido.com/ ? They are the only US distributor listed on Hobbywing's website. I also like the look of their site more than I do Hobbypartz. So, I think I'd go hobbywing and change the radio to make it feel like I want. |
I got one coming in on Friday at my local shop. Ordered the Tekin rs 17.5 combo to put into it. Any tips i should know?
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Originally Posted by ufoDziner
(Post 10556664)
That's a tough choice. I have both. The throttle and brake feel on the Novak are amazing. The hobbywing feels like it has exponential on the throttle. Like they tried overly hard to make it smooth and the brakes feel weak to me. That being said, I've had to send each of my Novaks back at least once. Their customer service is great, I just don't like having to see them so often.
So, I think I'd go hobbywing and change the radio to make it feel like I want. Do you have the V3 version of the 120a Hobbywing? edit: Finished my first lid in 15 years. I was a little ambitious the first time out. Good thing this was just a practice run. Got another one ready to paint. http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hread-rc-1.jpg http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hread-rc-5.jpg |
Originally Posted by Hinecken
(Post 10556733)
Why have you had to send the Novaks in?
Do you have the V3 version of the 120a Hobbywing? No. AFAIK the V3 isn't being delivered yet. It's supposed to start this month. Mine's the 2.1 I believe. |
According to these guys it's out.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...1-12-car-black |
Steel Idler?
Hey guys,
My T4 FT seems to keep blowing out the idler gear, even with my slipper loose, It first started with a bearing that blew out and got dissinegrated inside the trans, somehow it only munched the idler and i was able to get it backtogether with a new idler replacement and a new bearing,, it lasted about a week (id roughly say 10-12 packs run through it) and then started clicking again, i tore it down and found the idler chewed again so this time i replaced all the parts i could buy locally 1. Trans Case 2. Topshaft & Gear 3. Another new idler (white plastic) Thats seemed to be pretty good, i thought my trans issues were over and done with now i been running it about a month but alot less running so i would still say i only ran about 10-12 packs through it. I keep my slipper very loose and when i take off (on concrete) i can hear that slipper slipping for the first 10-20-30 ft so im wondering why i keep ripping the idler gear. it started ticking again on my last run so i know it wont be long till im replacing it again. Im looking at possibly getting the Hot racing or Robinson racing steel idler gear from the SC10 for it and then see what the outcome is. Now im wondering though will this gear fit right? i read something about there beint two different trans cases and some different sized bearings or something??? Any info would be much appreciated. Any ideas or suggestions?? |
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