I'm running one of the finned 4300kv tacons, saw that your running a 2300kv? Could you post a link?
As for the toro system, I am not able to post links yet on rc-tech but it comes up in google pretty easy. The toro is also a 550 can with either a 120 or 150A un censored esc. Its on the CK site for 140.

Thanks

Hmm thanks for the info on the toro systems...I dont run 4x4 so i am kinda out of the loop on good cheap stuff for them.Here is a link to the 540 can tacon.Theycarry them all the way up to 4900kv I do beleive, but the 2230 has been working great for the medium track we have been running it on..comes off the track at under 100* everytime.

http://www.nitrorcx.com/96m06-car-3650-2230.html

last nights 17.5/blinky 2wd main..running the yellow combo..geared 27/74 with mild motor timing..just right for last nights layout..I am the orange and white car..running with guys running tekin,castle,novak, systems..

+ YouTube Video

I have said it for a long time...it don't matter what power system you have if you cant drive....nice race.

Thanks dirtman.Not my cleanest run, but it got the job done..;)

Used my Hobby King 150A ESC last night for 5 packs of practice with a Orion 1750Kv sensorless motor in my RC8Be. Very smooth, great efficiency, running the moderate acceleration, high timing, 80% break and 0% throttle limit. I pulled my buggy off the track after 20 min. and my Zippy 45C 5000Mah pack was reading 3.43 per cell AND PUT IN 3500 MAH back into the battery. Motor temped at 130, ESC was 90, and battery was 84. Pretty good for a $50 battery and $65 ESC. Very happy so far. Only down side to the ESC is that it is very big.

Big or not, glad to hear you had good results with it!!

what are the long white arm breakers doing out on the track? :) those will keep anyone from trying to get by inside.

Yeah the wooden boards are not for the faint of heart,LOL.I have to remind myself to leave a little more room on the inside than what I normally do running dirt,LOL..I have lucked out this winter and they havent claimed any of my parts,LOL

I only have about 5-6 packs through my 150a and so far so good. Last time out I did notice that the rev was very very sensitive. If I barely thought of putting it into rev it would go. Not sure if it is the esc or the gt3. Not a big issue, just noticed it trying to line up to race. paused with finger off the trigger, going back to the trigger, the slightest brush would go into rev. Durring the races no problems. .

I am going to try some on road racing. Found a Tamyia M-05 on ebay that had everything I needed to race at my club for cheap. Should get here today if I am lucky.
they run them with the stock silver can 540 brushed motors and they do well, all the cars are equal pretty much. I am fine with that for now. I have seen these on youtube just hall but with brushless.

the club is thinking of running an open class, but not realy, more of a brushless class, same motor esc set up. I was thinking around 13t

I have no problems mixing and matching stuff together, but for club use most guys want all matching stuff from the same place.

what would you recomend?

the speed passion cirtix systems are really popular with the vta and world GT guys.blinky/0* timing mode only with a fixed timing BL motor for true spec racing.. for the money though I would go with the hobbywing justock system in either 17.5 or 13.5 .for the $129 it would be a cheaper alternative to the speed passion.
Or for even cheaper racing yet the yellow system paired with either a 17.5 or 13.5 in 508no timing/Blinky mode..at $77.00 a great deal..I am liking the 17.5 motor just fine with this combo.Maybe the 13.5 for on road where you can stretch its legs a little more than on offroad.

I do want to say that I found the weak link in the "yellow" hobbywing system that will probally cause problems for those who are not very experienced...The solder in the motors is not very good.I was playing with the stock super charged software at home this week and Got the motor aound the 150* mark and it quit working .I tore it down and found that one of the stator coil winds had come unsolderd from the common loop on the output shaft end of the stator.They used standard 60/40 solder..so I did a re-build removing the 60/40 and re-soldering all the stator terminations with silver solder which has a MUCH higher meltng point than standard 60/40 solder..problem fixed.. tested it by getting the motor back up to 150 with no iissues..But running in blinky at the track my motor never gets over 110, so you know I had no issues with it last night.:)I do want to add that I am not sure whether it was due to the 60/40 solder or just a bad solder joint that caused the failure, but since i had it tore down that far it took an extra 10 minutes to fix it right so I knew the issue wouldnt re-occur.Still an excellent bargain for what I paid for it,and i really dont even mind the re-solder at that price.

I just got my yellow 60a fresh off the slow boat from china...

I want to put the speed passion software on it. Does anyone have a link?

It came with a disc, I'm assuming to program it?

the disk has your software for adjusting the speed control..if it does not auto run when you put it in the drive just open the setup file .also on the disk is the owners manual.