Callaway

iTrader: (3)

I don't bother gluing the whole length of the bead, just four spots around each side.

Also, be sure you cut the width of your rim down by trimming the innermost channel off. So the bead is mounted against the second rib. You don't have to cut the wheel off as long as you mount the tire correctly, but I think it's much cleaner to go ahead and trim the wheel.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

alright guys I am looking at some "cheap" options for tires here, I see a variety of older treaded tire types I can get new for about $7 or less shipped. things like ions, etc in clay compound. I figure as they wear, they basically become a slick anyway. Does that make sense? Are there some tread types if you go that route make more sense that others?

Also, in general are the schumacher staggers pretty much the way to go for buggy fronts on carpet? I know guy running them and they appear to work quite well.

tc5 man

The D-boots square blocks with AKA red inserts work good up Front . D-Boots Terabytes same inserts are good work better with wear and sauce though .

Clay tires actually the Typos with wear and sauce work good even Chainlinks .

Eddie_E

If we're talking tight loop office carpet, then yes the cut stagger is the way to go. I found the Schumacher setup is best with the matching rear mini-pin or mini-pin2. The staggers have so much grip on the office carpet that it will over power the whole setup with some other random tire out back. That can be almost un-driveable.

I buy the narrow front Schu rims so I don't have to cut down a Proline rim.

The Schu setup is Super high grip. So much that very stiff springs and lowered ride heights are the norm. I went full retard on my B5ML spring rates and it's working well.
They never need to be cleaned or sauced if you only run them on carpet.

On grey Ozite, I actually like a brand new set of M4 Electrons all around and I can run my indoor clay setup, no sauce.

I race off-road on looped office carpet and 1/12th scale/WGT on Ozite. My testing with the B5M on Ozite was esc/motor tuning, but I was shocked at how well it actually worked. Went up 2 teeth on the pinion and left the on-road stuff on my pit table.

For the truley cheap SCT driver, I noticed that one of the cheapo pre-mount companies had Goosebumps pre-mounted for under $20 under a different name. I may have been Speedtreads Konekt, I can't remember. Should be amazing on office carpet.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

This pretty well sums up my 4WD setup. I run the staggers up front and MP2s in the rear.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

This part interests me a lot as I noticed with my SCT I am running ions in m3 and I didn't find a need to sauce them.

I wonder if some electrons or even primes in m4 could do the trick for my buggy versus a clay compound sauced ...

tc5 man

I forgot to mention the carpet i race on which is ozlite setup wise on my 2wd Buggy all i did was make the ride height at 20/21. Shock oil 32.5/32.5 Gray Fronts/White Rear although its actually a bit soft up Front still. Gear diff 5000k could go with 4000k though since its not high grip.

So not much change setup wise from running on clay other than ride height and a Ball diff/tires but the gear diff works on it.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Yes, Primes will DEFINITELY work, but I don't think you need to use M4's, I think MC's would be ideal. I did a tire test at a new Ozite track that's getting ready to open, & tried my 2WD buggy with my Primes, & I LOVED it, my buggy felt even better than my sedans did, but I did notice the M4 rears I tried took a real beating, I think they'd get chewed up pretty fast. But the MC tires had plenty of grip, & showed no significant wear, & with them I felt no need for traction compound at all. I think just a light cleaning will be plenty to keep them in good shape & MC's should last a good while. It's definitely what I intend to start with when the track's ready for their first race day....

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Same for me, when I did my tire test, I made no changes to setup from what I run on clay tracks, & it felt PERFECT, plenty of turn-in, grip & I could drive as aggressively as I wanted without upsetting the buggy. I'm VERY much looking forward to some actual racing on it...

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

To confirm, you do want MC over M4 when using the Primes on carpet - the M4's get squirmy when they get warm. Also, the 2.2" tires are preferred over the 2.4" versions - as previously mentioned, the 2.2" ones won't tear the sidewalls like all the 2.4" slicks are prone to do. That being said, the 2.4" Primes are now discontinued but you still don't want to pick that version up on clearance somewhere.

Eddie_E

The grey Ozite and the new Black Ozite have completely different grip levels and wear. The new black version has milled rubber added to it when it's made. The grip comes up very fast compared to the old grey that took a month of heavily sauced 1/12th/ WGT racing to bring the grip up.

I'm surprised a track owner with the brand new black Ozite allowed an off-road vehicle on it at all.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

It isn't the new stuff yet, he bought some old grey Ozite that we were going to use at a different track in the area some years ago(before that track owner decided to rip it out & go all dirt, so the carpet had been sitting in a storage room for about 5 1/2 years, but if things go well, he may want to replace it with the new stuff later).

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

Just curious, for those running slicks in the rear for 2wd, what fronts to do you use?
Slicks as well?

How about Schumacher Cut Stagger Low Profile? Will these work?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

If you're running slicks on the rear, it's probably because you are mandated to by a tracks' rules, thus, you are also running slicks on the front.

Those Schumacher fronts are the front tire of choice about 95% of the time when slicks are not mandated but I can't see them not causing a imbalance/hook when used with slick rears.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

running slicks front and rear, panthers right now. got some other clay compound tires coming.