1LikesTLR 22T Thread
03-16-2012, 10:52 AM
#2822
That might be one of my issues, the stock rtr o-rings. I was having problems with the way the truck was jumping level and decided to take a look at the shocks. I bought the rtr caps for easier bleeding and just used the o-rings that came with them. well when I took all 4 caps off, 2 of the o-rings were twisted! Which obviously was giving me a false reading when built. I'm going to get my stock bladders, cut them, and give that a try.
03-16-2012, 10:58 AM
#2823
That might be one of my issues, the stock rtr o-rings. I was having problems with the way the truck was jumping level and decided to take a look at the shocks. I bought the rtr caps for easier bleeding and just used the o-rings that came with them. well when I took all 4 caps off, 2 of the o-rings were twisted! Which obviously was giving me a false reading when built. I'm going to get my stock bladders, cut them, and give that a try.
03-16-2012, 11:57 AM
#2824
Youll be dialed then! Dont tighten the bottom cap up on the orings around the shock shafts either...makes a huge difference...i dont even run mine hardely snug....
03-16-2012, 08:20 PM
#2825
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
The steering link ballcup is popping off because the wheels is hitting the ballcup and "grabbing" it and pullung it off. In this case, I would bet the force that the spindle, slider and servo arm are geting will be the same whether the ballcup pops off, or the captured end stays put.
03-17-2012, 08:08 AM
#2826
That might be one of my issues, the stock rtr o-rings. I was having problems with the way the truck was jumping level and decided to take a look at the shocks. I bought the rtr caps for easier bleeding and just used the o-rings that came with them. well when I took all 4 caps off, 2 of the o-rings were twisted! Which obviously was giving me a false reading when built. I'm going to get my stock bladders, cut them, and give that a try.
I tried for 45 minutes to get them as close as possible and never got them 100%.
I got the rtr caps with the RTR cap o-rings and had an issue with the first one. I had to lube the o-rings before I tightened them or they tweaked. I almost ruined the first one but I was able to save it by flipping it over. I then lubed all other other cap o-rings and had no issues.
I'm going to get another set of RTR caps for the buggy since they were so easy and much more consistant.
I do need to get a set of low frictions for the truck. I use them in the buggy and they're great. I just have to motor spray off the shocks after each run due to the seepage.
03-17-2012, 08:14 AM
#2827
I had a hell of a time using the stock aluminum caps. I cut the bladders and tried building the shocks with them since I've never had issues with my buggy.
I tried for 45 minutes to get them as close as possible and never got them 100%.
I got the rtr caps with the RTR cap o-rings and had an issue with the first one. I had to lube the o-rings before I tightened them or they tweaked. I almost ruined the first one but I was able to save it by flipping it over. I then lubed all other other cap o-rings and had no issues.
I'm going to get another set of RTR caps for the buggy since they were so easy and much more consistant.
I do need to get a set of low frictions for the truck. I use them in the buggy and they're great. I just have to motor spray off the shocks after each run due to the seepage.
I tried for 45 minutes to get them as close as possible and never got them 100%.
I got the rtr caps with the RTR cap o-rings and had an issue with the first one. I had to lube the o-rings before I tightened them or they tweaked. I almost ruined the first one but I was able to save it by flipping it over. I then lubed all other other cap o-rings and had no issues.
I'm going to get another set of RTR caps for the buggy since they were so easy and much more consistant.
I do need to get a set of low frictions for the truck. I use them in the buggy and they're great. I just have to motor spray off the shocks after each run due to the seepage.
03-17-2012, 10:13 AM
#2828
For those of you who may not have seen these yet, I still have a few sets available at the moment. Check'em out, they have got good reviews.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...guard-ext.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...guard-ext.html
03-18-2012, 01:31 PM
#2829
Mitten ur side guards are gonna be very appreciated,today especially more than every other time i run it and its mint underneath! Thanks for the PERFECT bolt on, at such a friendly, helpin people out, price!
03-18-2012, 03:06 PM
#2830
Well I put it to the test today, and gladly have to report I broke nothing. And I did take a couple of hits that under different circumstances would have ruined my day with a series of ball cup popping incidents. I run the aluminum steering rack. Anyone interested I used the Dubro 3mm captured ends.
03-18-2012, 03:35 PM
#2831
You were on rails today, BBQ! Great running.
I busted my first steering rack today. Luckily I was able to replace it before the heats started. Popped ball cups a few times in practice but they stayed put during the races.
I busted my first steering rack today. Luckily I was able to replace it before the heats started. Popped ball cups a few times in practice but they stayed put during the races.
03-18-2012, 06:17 PM
#2835
Good to hear! I'm guessing with the paddle tires you're looking to tear something up. I've finally put a set side pods on my own truck, ha. I've been busy making side pods, painting bodies, wrenching on cars, that I hadn't taken the time to make and install a set for myself. I had a good day of practice with the truck with a modified Dunford set up.