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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 07-21-2006, 09:34 AM
  #1366  
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I am running the carbon chassis and have yet to have any problems, with either the shorting or breakage. I got HACKED up at the race last weekend, and the only part broken was a rear body mount. I also do not have the lexan tape in my battery tray.
HTH
Rod
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Old 07-22-2006, 03:32 PM
  #1367  
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I've had my T4 since sept 05 & I think I have broken every part in the book!LOL. During the indoor carpet season I went through alot of a-arms, then ran in the winter nationals in Red Deer, Alberta & couldn't keep the car together. Now I'm racing at the outdoor track & have had very few broken parts. Maybe my driving is getting better!?
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Old 07-22-2006, 03:33 PM
  #1368  
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Yup... running the plastic chassis gives it a bit more flex over the carbon graphite tub... which at least in my case seems to help make driving the B4 and T4 easier!
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:34 PM
  #1369  
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This is my first time posting in this thread so if anyone knows the answer please let me know or direct me to any posts that answers my questions. I bought a Checkpoint Money 19t and planning to run my T4 and give it a run or more. My question/s are the following:

What pinion should I use with 87t spur?
How tight must the slipper clutch be in terms of turning the wrench if you know what I'm talking about?
Any precaution/s that I should be aware of while running?
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:10 PM
  #1370  
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Start with 19T pinion
slipper should be stock setting.

The motor has more torque and runs cooler then KD's. So on a shorter track or in extremely hot weather, it seems to do very very well.

Paul
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Old 07-22-2006, 11:24 PM
  #1371  
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Alright its completely assembled... had some issues putting the shocks together, but smooth otherwise. Also outfitted everything with Deans plugs, threw on RPM ball cup ends throughout, and put on the batt tray thumb screws. I kept the plastic chassis on as recommended.
Notes on the kit:
-very nice how they put a 1:1 image of the screws needed in each step.
-hard to see which washer is which in the instructions (I had to back-trace them through the parts list a few times)
-fit and finish is nice on most of the parts
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-ftt41.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-ftt43.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-ftt42.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-ftt44.jpg  

Last edited by DiscoDan; 07-23-2006 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:48 AM
  #1372  
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OK... I was hoping to find a Novak GTB 6.5r for my T4, but nobody close to me has them in stock. My question: could I throw the 4.5r GTB in it and de-tune it with EPA's and such to make it controlable? or is it going to be a waste of money because its too powewrful?
Question #2: The other GTB I found close to me is the 7.5r... is this powerful enough?
I really dont know too much about b/l systems, but the 6.5r was the one recommended to me.
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:24 AM
  #1373  
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The 4.5 would be way to much motor for off-road. It could be detuned with epa adjustments, but I don't think you would like it.

The 7.5 would work, but it's about the equivalent of a 13T motor I think. So it's better suited to a buggy then truck. Either way, I don't think you would be disappointed with a 7.5. Don't forget, just because you buy the 7.5. You can go out later and get the 6.5 motor. (It's good to have a backup motor regardless of being brushed or brushless.

Paul
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Old 07-23-2006, 12:54 PM
  #1374  
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At the moment I am running a Reedy Flash rpm based 13 double and the power is ideal for my skill level, so if the 7.5r would be comparable then I may go that way. No hobby shops close to me seem to have a 6.5r in stock... only the 4.5r or the 7.5r.
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Old 07-23-2006, 12:59 PM
  #1375  
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Purchase the 7.5 system. You can go back and purchase the rotor for like $35 new if the 7.5 is not enough power.
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:37 PM
  #1376  
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Originally Posted by party_wagon
Purchase the 7.5 system. You can go back and purchase the rotor for like $35 new if the 7.5 is not enough power.

Just FYI, but by purchasing a new rotor, you will not see any prformance change. Unlike brushed motors that have the windings on the rotor, brushless has it reversed. the can has the windings and the rotor has the magnets.

if you want to upgrade for more power, you must buy a new motor can...
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:39 PM
  #1377  
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thanks
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:42 PM
  #1378  
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Ya the 7.5 would probably be perfect for the T4. I run the 6.5 in my truck and it's just stupid fast from mid throttle to full with an 18 tooth pinion. I run a 16 tooth on it to get a little more bottom and not such insane top end. I would like to try a 7.5 in mine.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:18 PM
  #1379  
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hey does anyone know where i can find a good setup for my ft t4? i race int. stock truck at socal rc (low/med grip, bumpy, clay) thanks-Mike
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:39 PM
  #1380  
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Try the Tebo 2005 ROAR Nats Setup. If you need more steering try switching to Silver fronts.
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