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Old 09-12-2010, 09:16 PM
  #13591  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
TIP :


Cut small V notch's on the inside & outside of the slipper pads...

Helps keep the slipper clean and consistent
how bout a pic?
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:18 PM
  #13592  
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i have a slight push on the front of my truck off power,im running 3/1 pistons with 32.5 in front and 27.5 in the rear,im thinking about going to 30 in the front and maybe trying the blue springs? im running on high bite clay,im also running 6/2 limiters
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:29 AM
  #13593  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
i have a slight push on the front of my truck off power,im running 3/1 pistons with 32.5 in front and 27.5 in the rear,im thinking about going to 30 in the front and maybe trying the blue springs? im running on high bite clay,im also running 6/2 limiters
what about tires? I always start with changing the tires. Is it an off power push? Change the fronts. On power push, maybe change the rears to tires with less bite. It's really a balance between the two. If you soften the suspension on the front end you may find the rear end coming around on you in the middle of the turns. And that won't work for anybody.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:41 PM
  #13594  
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Default Self Cleaning Slipper

Originally Posted by tsmiley31
how bout a pic?
Here yeah go...
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-self-clean-slipper-003.jpg  
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:03 PM
  #13595  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Here yeah go...
This would be like slotted brake rotors on cars.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:17 PM
  #13596  
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interesting!
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:22 PM
  #13597  
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That particular slipper pad I posted has about 14 packs on it ...
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:54 AM
  #13598  
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Originally Posted by mjk1210
I don't think adding weight to the front of the chassis will get him any more rear bite.
Is the track dusty? Try different tires. Try goosebumps in the back if it's really dusty or blue barcodes if not too dusty.
Also you should try different front tires, like rounders or even barcodes to tame the front end down. It's a balance. If the front tires are aggressive (as the groovy's are) the rear will seem looser.
Thanks mjk1210 for the input, the barcode fronts do work well up front when its super dusty and I have been playing with them for a couple of weeks now. As crazy as it my sound, I even went to 1deg. rear hubs and they seem to be ok in the dusty conditions. I have not tried them at night yet, but have a feeling they will cause a push. I raced indoor off road for years and never even considered running 1deg. hubs, but these conditions are unlike anything I have ever seen. Btw the goosebump rears work pretty well also.
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:12 AM
  #13599  
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Does anyone know what all you need to shift the motor to the right more, so the it is more on the center-line of the car?
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:14 AM
  #13600  
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Originally Posted by kyle3333
Does anyone know what all you need to shift the motor to the right more, so the it is more on the center-line of the car?
You can use some plastic spacers of some sort between the motor plate and the trans case. You may need longer screws to reach the motor plate though and the motor plate is more apt to bend on an impact. Also, you may have to shim the top shaft so the slipper disc doesn't rub on the motor plate. It's not that hard to do, just probably not that necessary either. I recently tried putting the speedo on the right side of the car and receiver on the left to balance it better. It worked really well. You may want to try that instead.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:44 AM
  #13601  
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Originally Posted by kyle3333
Does anyone know what all you need to shift the motor to the right more, so the it is more on the center-line of the car?

Hardly can be felt or even noticed ....


Use to do ....

Just a big hassle when assembling transmission....
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:32 PM
  #13602  
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I think it is worth moving the motor over on the B4. Especially if you use an LRP motor. On one of our layouts last year there was a jump with a right turn at the bottom. The motor mod was very noticable at that spot. The car didn't turn as well without it...it wanted to bounce/turn left. Worked perfect.

If you buy two sets of 25* blocks, you can get plastic spacers to move the motor over 4mm. These can be glued to the transmission case and it makes diff work simpler.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:38 PM
  #13603  
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So many factors are involved in how far to space the motor over. You really need to check your car with your motor and gearing. On my SC10 with a duo 2 and a 84 spur only needed one 1mm of spacing to get the chassis balanced. (no wheels or body on) When I put the speed control wiring and receiver back in it I had to add 1.75oz to the receiver side to get the balance back.

So check your car/truck you may need less or more depending on your equipment.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:52 PM
  #13604  
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Been told if you use the Lrp X-12 there is no need to off-set ....

So I don't off-set anymore ....
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:28 AM
  #13605  
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Moving the motor plate over isn't always needed, it depends on what motor you run. You have to build it normal, and then put it on the scales.

X-12 does not need to be centered.
X-11, trinity, novak, orion, teken and many others do, but some different amounts.



Also, don't forget to add the 1/2oz next to the Rx to make up for the speedo and wires. This makes a bit of a difference also.
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