RC10B4/T4 Forum
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i have a slight push on the front of my truck off power,im running 3/1 pistons with 32.5 in front and 27.5 in the rear,im thinking about going to 30 in the front and maybe trying the blue springs? im running on high bite clay,im also running 6/2 limiters
what about tires? I always start with changing the tires. Is it an off power push? Change the fronts. On power push, maybe change the rears to tires with less bite. It's really a balance between the two. If you soften the suspension on the front end you may find the rear end coming around on you in the middle of the turns. And that won't work for anybody.
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interesting!
That particular slipper pad I posted has about 14 packs on it ...
I don't think adding weight to the front of the chassis will get him any more rear bite.
Is the track dusty? Try different tires. Try goosebumps in the back if it's really dusty or blue barcodes if not too dusty.
Also you should try different front tires, like rounders or even barcodes to tame the front end down. It's a balance. If the front tires are aggressive (as the groovy's are) the rear will seem looser.
Is the track dusty? Try different tires. Try goosebumps in the back if it's really dusty or blue barcodes if not too dusty.
Also you should try different front tires, like rounders or even barcodes to tame the front end down. It's a balance. If the front tires are aggressive (as the groovy's are) the rear will seem looser.
Does anyone know what all you need to shift the motor to the right more, so the it is more on the center-line of the car?
You can use some plastic spacers of some sort between the motor plate and the trans case. You may need longer screws to reach the motor plate though and the motor plate is more apt to bend on an impact. Also, you may have to shim the top shaft so the slipper disc doesn't rub on the motor plate. It's not that hard to do, just probably not that necessary either. I recently tried putting the speedo on the right side of the car and receiver on the left to balance it better. It worked really well. You may want to try that instead.
I think it is worth moving the motor over on the B4. Especially if you use an LRP motor. On one of our layouts last year there was a jump with a right turn at the bottom. The motor mod was very noticable at that spot. The car didn't turn as well without it...it wanted to bounce/turn left. Worked perfect.
If you buy two sets of 25* blocks, you can get plastic spacers to move the motor over 4mm. These can be glued to the transmission case and it makes diff work simpler.
If you buy two sets of 25* blocks, you can get plastic spacers to move the motor over 4mm. These can be glued to the transmission case and it makes diff work simpler.
Tech Champion
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So many factors are involved in how far to space the motor over. You really need to check your car with your motor and gearing. On my SC10 with a duo 2 and a 84 spur only needed one 1mm of spacing to get the chassis balanced. (no wheels or body on) When I put the speed control wiring and receiver back in it I had to add 1.75oz to the receiver side to get the balance back.
So check your car/truck you may need less or more depending on your equipment.
So check your car/truck you may need less or more depending on your equipment.
Been told if you use the Lrp X-12 there is no need to off-set ....
So I don't off-set anymore ....
So I don't off-set anymore ....
Moving the motor plate over isn't always needed, it depends on what motor you run. You have to build it normal, and then put it on the scales.
X-12 does not need to be centered.
X-11, trinity, novak, orion, teken and many others do, but some different amounts.
Also, don't forget to add the 1/2oz next to the Rx to make up for the speedo and wires. This makes a bit of a difference also.
X-12 does not need to be centered.
X-11, trinity, novak, orion, teken and many others do, but some different amounts.
Also, don't forget to add the 1/2oz next to the Rx to make up for the speedo and wires. This makes a bit of a difference also.