not home

iTrader: (23)

So there is an older and an updated version of the Factory Team kit for the B4?
there is the newer kits, come with the sc10 parts, some of the ones you listed below.
For the NEW stuff on the Factory Team B4, is there a way to tell whether it has the new or old stuff by looking at the box in the shop?
no, the ones coming from associated the past two or three weeks comes with the different parts. ask you local hobby shop when they got it in, that will determine whether its the newest kit or the one with the standard parts.
Are the shocks a specific color on the new one? what is the motor guard? just wraps around the motor? is the sc10 plastic better?
the shocks appear to have a darker anodizing on them, maybe my shock are just losing color... the motor guard is the sc10 one, nice for carrying on the rear end, they just got rid of a mold for the b4/t4 one and just make one for all three now. sc10 plastic flexes, people say it doesnt break, in my opinion it does, it flexes more and breaks. i dont like it. but the parts the newer kits come with are okay.

from an older thread:
shock bodies they are no different, the rings on the bottom are identification to associated for what stuff is new and old.
bulkhead - sc10 plastic
top plate - sc10 plasticrtr, i think the ft kits are carbon.
beefier steering blocks - sc10 plastic
steering rack - sc10 plastic
wing mounts, beefed up - sc10 plastic
rear chassis plate - sc10 plastic
rear hubs - sc10 plastic
motor gaurd - sc10 type

lusifur

so are the new kits better or are the old kits better?

not home

iTrader: (23)

nothing is really "better" just associated getting rid of some old molds. the sc10 and regular b4 knuckles are the same part number and are universal. in my hopes the newer ones will be better, less wear in the steering. the new ones are worth getting, nothign really changes, no performance changes, so if you have two kits, one "new" and the other ft kit, youre not going to se a difference.

lusifur

So the newer stuff in the kits are the TEAM kits or the FACTORY TEAM kits?

No real difference between the newer and older FACTORY TEAM kits then?

SmItH_aLeX

iTrader: (3)

WRONG

rcman1993

iTrader: (33)

different spur but same fdr is the same motor performance. But the handling is different due to where the weight of the motor is. The closser to the rear wheels, the better.

not home

iTrader: (23)

all i said was i heard.
all i said was i heard.
not really, nothing that will make a handling difference.

lusifur

I did end up with the newer kit.

My local tracks run Bar codes & suburbs.

Under which track conditions would you run the ribbed fronts and the m3 holeshots in back? Debating whether to keep them (and glue them up) or use the wheels for bar codes and sell off the ones from the box. I like holeshots in general on harder dusty tracks personally, but my experience with them is limited to 1/8 buggy.

jbright33

iTrader: (15)

ok this is the setup i ran last weekend. I have tried many other setup and all with the same affect making the rear end very nimble anyone c where i might b going wrong?

jbright33

iTrader: (15)

also im running trailing forgot to make it off

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Move lower rear shock to inside, add .060 limiter inside the shock, go to black spring (if you're running the car light). Perhaps remove 1 or 2 washers from rear inner ball stud,especially if you have the newer rear brace, which has .060 height built into it.

jbright33

iTrader: (15)

tried the shock in the inner hole but goona try it again. im ruuning black in rear are you saying try them in the front? havnt tried limiting my shocks yeat but that was one of my next moves. my buggy is over a year old so think it has older style rear brace.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Sorry, thought I saw green. The "new" brace is older than a year, maybe 2 or 3. You will be able to tell because the mounting location for the ball studs is raised from the rest of the surface on the new one. Limiting makes the shock travel .060 will make a big difference at turn in by keeping the rear much more planted. You might also try 27.5 wt in the rear shocks, that can keep the rear more planted, especially if you're track requires aggressive turn in.

If you're running the inside hole on the front arm you should put 1 .030 limiter in the shocks too.

ace921000

iTrader: (7)

My FTB4 is really nice and handles great but it is a bit slow. I'm running the novak havok 13.5 w/ esc combo and a 5200mah 35c 2S lipo. My gearing is 26/81. How can I get this thing to go faster? It seems so slow down the straight and people catch up to me. Around tight turns and stuff it is fine because I have my car setup for hard corners.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

You need to gear up quite a bit. Try 29/75.