55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
03-03-2009, 05:32 PM
#7036
03-03-2009, 06:09 PM
#7037
hmm can i use the small RPM ball cups on the rear turnbuckles for the b4 or do i have to get the long shank rpm ball cups.
03-03-2009, 06:18 PM
#7038
You can play with your wheelbase, but I think that is a more drastic solution. I would play with it just to see how you like it on your track. IIRC shorter = tighter turn radius, more aggressive steering response, should increase your on power traction some, it won't handle as well on rough tracks. Longer is gonna feel more stable and give you more on power steering at the exit. I usually run middle/back.
You could soften your rear end, that would give you more rear traction. adding anti-squat will give you more rear traction as well if I remember right, but it will not like a bumpy track as much.
you can lay down your rear shocks, this will give it a "lazy" feel, and give you more traction on exit if I remember right. you can also take out some rear camber and front toe in.
03-03-2009, 06:20 PM
#7039
Is it better to go with the aluminum casters or just stick with the plastic ones?
03-03-2009, 06:36 PM
#7040
Thanks bro. I will try those.
I am assuming you are accelrating while you are coming out of the turn but before you are "squared" or is your rear end just "squirrely"
You can play with your wheelbase, but I think that is a more drastic solution. I would play with it just to see how you like it on your track. IIRC shorter = tighter turn radius, more aggressive steering response, should increase your on power traction some, it won't handle as well on rough tracks. Longer is gonna feel more stable and give you more on power steering at the exit. I usually run middle/back.
You could soften your rear end, that would give you more rear traction. adding anti-squat will give you more rear traction as well if I remember right, but it will not like a bumpy track as much.
you can lay down your rear shocks, this will give it a "lazy" feel, and give you more traction on exit if I remember right. you can also take out some rear camber and front toe in.
You can play with your wheelbase, but I think that is a more drastic solution. I would play with it just to see how you like it on your track. IIRC shorter = tighter turn radius, more aggressive steering response, should increase your on power traction some, it won't handle as well on rough tracks. Longer is gonna feel more stable and give you more on power steering at the exit. I usually run middle/back.
You could soften your rear end, that would give you more rear traction. adding anti-squat will give you more rear traction as well if I remember right, but it will not like a bumpy track as much.
you can lay down your rear shocks, this will give it a "lazy" feel, and give you more traction on exit if I remember right. you can also take out some rear camber and front toe in.
03-03-2009, 06:49 PM
#7041
03-03-2009, 07:17 PM
#7042
If those dont do it then go to the outside camber link hole of the rear hub. That will put a big chunk of side bite back into the rear.
But of course all that means nothing if your shocks are not setup with clean oil every race day. Amazing how much better it handles with fresh oil set at the proper level.
Clear as mud?
HTH
03-03-2009, 07:27 PM
#7043
I didn't relise the setup he was running did not have this, I run this on my setup and It helps if your rear end is comming around on you. I know this sounds lame, but if you still can't get it were you like it, you should play with your slipper.
03-04-2009, 08:00 AM
#7044
gearing
Hi guys!! I'm new to the fourm but not the hobby,I currently am running the new 72 spur with 31 pinion on a 17.5,I found after a 5 min race my motor was coming back at 96deg.I run on a indoor carpet offroad in Canada(wwwfastcats.ca)extreamly high traction.I just raced this past sunday and found I had to back off when coming up on traffic as the new spur really works with higher turn motors,I also tried the 75 spur with 32 pinion and it was nice as well but the temp went up about 10deg.either gearing had lots of low and high end,I was actually doing wheelies (with the slipper backed off)the extra power could be the gearing or b/c I just upgraded my lipo to the new reedy 5000mah 35C,from the trinity lipro 4500 20C.Either way I think the lower tooth spur is needed to really get the power band the brushless motors like.
Jim
Jim
03-04-2009, 09:20 AM
#7045
Just bought a 72 and 75 spur, rcplanet has them in stock now I'm curious if it will help, it will certainly help messing with gear ratios with a 17.5
I'm curious if it will help, it will certainly help messing with gear ratios with a 17.5
03-04-2009, 03:12 PM
#7048
Hey guys, I am trying to remember the stock shock b4 setup. Also anyone have a decent set-up on a 1/8th scale size bumpy track with sandy clay/ low traction. I think I rebuilt my girl's buggy with a good setup but I don't have the manual for the stock setup and I have not raced the buggy in years.
Thanks
Josh
Thanks
Josh
03-04-2009, 03:20 PM
#7050
Hey there Ray, I got even more out of my Sentry 
Check this out. Here is what I copy and pasted from the thread I started in the touring car forum.
Seeing as we don't yet have a brushless dyno, I figured I'd share how I made a dyno out of a Novak Sentry datalogger, a Fantom Aluminum Flywheel, a Tekin RS Pro, spektrum 3001 receiver and Sanwa Exzes radio.
The following equations are what I am using. If there are any errors, please do not hesitate to respond.
For all math, RPMs must be converted into Rad/s.
ex. 3713 RPM, W = 3713RPM (2pi Rad/1 revolution)(1min/60seconds) = 388.82 rad/s
Torque = I (moment of inertia) x a (angular acceleration in rad/s)
Moment of inertia I = 1/2*MR^2
power (kW) = (torque (N*M) *2pi*rpm)/60000
angular acceleration a = (W-Wo)/t, W must be in rad/s
The moment of inertia for the fantom flywheel is,
47.59E-6 calculated from the weight, 79g and diameter 69.42mm
The test below is only a proof of concept. The tests are not ideal because I didn't top off the battery first, and I didn't let the motor run long enough so I didn't see a max RPM. Plus, I need to get my girlfriend to make an excel spread sheet for me because I did all the math by hand. Also, I do not yet have the current sensor for the Sentry and that should be in by the end of the week.
The following is a Hacker 13.5 dynoed @ 5 degrees virtual timing boost on the RS Pro, and a 5200 mah LIPO battery.
Check this out. Here is what I copy and pasted from the thread I started in the touring car forum.Seeing as we don't yet have a brushless dyno, I figured I'd share how I made a dyno out of a Novak Sentry datalogger, a Fantom Aluminum Flywheel, a Tekin RS Pro, spektrum 3001 receiver and Sanwa Exzes radio.
The following equations are what I am using. If there are any errors, please do not hesitate to respond.
For all math, RPMs must be converted into Rad/s.
ex. 3713 RPM, W = 3713RPM (2pi Rad/1 revolution)(1min/60seconds) = 388.82 rad/s
Torque = I (moment of inertia) x a (angular acceleration in rad/s)
Moment of inertia I = 1/2*MR^2
power (kW) = (torque (N*M) *2pi*rpm)/60000
angular acceleration a = (W-Wo)/t, W must be in rad/s
The moment of inertia for the fantom flywheel is,
47.59E-6 calculated from the weight, 79g and diameter 69.42mm
The test below is only a proof of concept. The tests are not ideal because I didn't top off the battery first, and I didn't let the motor run long enough so I didn't see a max RPM. Plus, I need to get my girlfriend to make an excel spread sheet for me because I did all the math by hand. Also, I do not yet have the current sensor for the Sentry and that should be in by the end of the week.
The following is a Hacker 13.5 dynoed @ 5 degrees virtual timing boost on the RS Pro, and a 5200 mah LIPO battery.
If you want to make a heavier flywheel, you dont need to make it much heavier but a larger diameter. That makes a very big difference to moment of inertia. Just be careful to make it safe (and balanced!!) of course!
Ray