55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
11-24-2008, 07:34 PM
#6106
With the lower # motors or higher powered motors you use gearing that is just a little higher then what you would with say a brushed motor of about equal performance. However with the lower powered motors like the 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, etc you have to gear them to the moon to get the motors in their power band.
As for pic's of that track, here are some pic's on my cars on that track (well last years layout anyways)
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...3/RC%20racing/
As for pic's of that track, here are some pic's on my cars on that track (well last years layout anyways)
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...3/RC%20racing/
11-24-2008, 09:06 PM
#6111
11-24-2008, 09:07 PM
#6112
You should be able to put a 33 in, i was able to. Ive heard that you have to run the kyosho slipper pads or cut dowm the stock ae ones to fit in the kyosho spur
11-24-2008, 09:16 PM
#6113
http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/infor..._motor_doc.pdf
NOTICE TO NOVAK BRUSHLESS MOTOR USERS
Novak motors have been designed to handle the rigors of any form of electric racing, from touring cars to off-road trucks and buggies.
Through multiple forms of testing, customer reports and inspection of damaged motors, we have determined that the maximum external safe operating temperature for Novak brushless motors is 175⁰F (80⁰C). Motors that run at higher temperatures have sustained internal damage.
This internal damage can render the motor inoperable if you continue to run it and will ultimately result in burned or melted coil(s) inside the motor.
This type of damage to the motor is not covered under Novak’s product warranty.
From our testing and experience, keeping the external motor operating temperature under 160⁰F (72⁰C) will provide the best performance when the car is handling well. At this temperature, the motors’ racing life will last a long time and should require only occasional replacement of the bearings and rotors.
Precaution about Advanced Timing:
Use of Novak brushless motors with non-Novak ESCs that have advance motor timing can result in excessive current draw, which will increase the motor temperature above the safe operating temperature. As most of these ESCs do not have a thermal overload protection for motors, continued operation will result in internal damage to the brushless motor.
This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
Precaution about Over-Gearing:
Motor temperature is the ONLY way to properly set the vehicle gearing. Over gearing the motor will result in excessive operating temperatures, which may result in internal damage. This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
All Novak Motors are hand-wound, assembled and tested at the Novak’s facility in Irvine, Calif. Each motor (yes, 100%) is meticulously inspected and tested for internal shorts, as well as run extensively before final packaging.
NOTICE TO NOVAK BRUSHLESS MOTOR USERS
Novak motors have been designed to handle the rigors of any form of electric racing, from touring cars to off-road trucks and buggies.
Through multiple forms of testing, customer reports and inspection of damaged motors, we have determined that the maximum external safe operating temperature for Novak brushless motors is 175⁰F (80⁰C). Motors that run at higher temperatures have sustained internal damage.
This internal damage can render the motor inoperable if you continue to run it and will ultimately result in burned or melted coil(s) inside the motor.
This type of damage to the motor is not covered under Novak’s product warranty.
From our testing and experience, keeping the external motor operating temperature under 160⁰F (72⁰C) will provide the best performance when the car is handling well. At this temperature, the motors’ racing life will last a long time and should require only occasional replacement of the bearings and rotors.
Precaution about Advanced Timing:
Use of Novak brushless motors with non-Novak ESCs that have advance motor timing can result in excessive current draw, which will increase the motor temperature above the safe operating temperature. As most of these ESCs do not have a thermal overload protection for motors, continued operation will result in internal damage to the brushless motor.
This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
Precaution about Over-Gearing:
Motor temperature is the ONLY way to properly set the vehicle gearing. Over gearing the motor will result in excessive operating temperatures, which may result in internal damage. This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
All Novak Motors are hand-wound, assembled and tested at the Novak’s facility in Irvine, Calif. Each motor (yes, 100%) is meticulously inspected and tested for internal shorts, as well as run extensively before final packaging.
11-24-2008, 09:28 PM
#6114
http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/infor..._motor_doc.pdf
NOTICE TO NOVAK BRUSHLESS MOTOR USERS
Novak motors have been designed to handle the rigors of any form of electric racing, from touring cars to off-road trucks and buggies.
Through multiple forms of testing, customer reports and inspection of damaged motors, we have determined that the maximum external safe operating temperature for Novak brushless motors is 175⁰F (80⁰C). Motors that run at higher temperatures have sustained internal damage.
This internal damage can render the motor inoperable if you continue to run it and will ultimately result in burned or melted coil(s) inside the motor.
This type of damage to the motor is not covered under Novak’s product warranty.
From our testing and experience, keeping the external motor operating temperature under 160⁰F (72⁰C) will provide the best performance when the car is handling well. At this temperature, the motors’ racing life will last a long time and should require only occasional replacement of the bearings and rotors.
Precaution about Advanced Timing:
Use of Novak brushless motors with non-Novak ESCs that have advance motor timing can result in excessive current draw, which will increase the motor temperature above the safe operating temperature. As most of these ESCs do not have a thermal overload protection for motors, continued operation will result in internal damage to the brushless motor.
This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
Precaution about Over-Gearing:
Motor temperature is the ONLY way to properly set the vehicle gearing. Over gearing the motor will result in excessive operating temperatures, which may result in internal damage. This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
All Novak Motors are hand-wound, assembled and tested at the Novak’s facility in Irvine, Calif. Each motor (yes, 100%) is meticulously inspected and tested for internal shorts, as well as run extensively before final packaging.
NOTICE TO NOVAK BRUSHLESS MOTOR USERS
Novak motors have been designed to handle the rigors of any form of electric racing, from touring cars to off-road trucks and buggies.
Through multiple forms of testing, customer reports and inspection of damaged motors, we have determined that the maximum external safe operating temperature for Novak brushless motors is 175⁰F (80⁰C). Motors that run at higher temperatures have sustained internal damage.
This internal damage can render the motor inoperable if you continue to run it and will ultimately result in burned or melted coil(s) inside the motor.
This type of damage to the motor is not covered under Novak’s product warranty.
From our testing and experience, keeping the external motor operating temperature under 160⁰F (72⁰C) will provide the best performance when the car is handling well. At this temperature, the motors’ racing life will last a long time and should require only occasional replacement of the bearings and rotors.
Precaution about Advanced Timing:
Use of Novak brushless motors with non-Novak ESCs that have advance motor timing can result in excessive current draw, which will increase the motor temperature above the safe operating temperature. As most of these ESCs do not have a thermal overload protection for motors, continued operation will result in internal damage to the brushless motor.
This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
Precaution about Over-Gearing:
Motor temperature is the ONLY way to properly set the vehicle gearing. Over gearing the motor will result in excessive operating temperatures, which may result in internal damage. This type of damage is not covered under the product’s warranty.
All Novak Motors are hand-wound, assembled and tested at the Novak’s facility in Irvine, Calif. Each motor (yes, 100%) is meticulously inspected and tested for internal shorts, as well as run extensively before final packaging.
Ae really needs to make some smaller spurs that use the STOCK slipper pads, i run on a small track so top speed isnt much of an issue and im still clearing everything with no problems so i havent done the mods to put on a smaller spur.
11-24-2008, 09:57 PM
#6115
R/C Tech Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Living in Paradise! Not really...
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I actually don't gear the 13.5 that deep though. I took a few teeth off the pinion and got quicker - but I am on a pretty tight track. Accelerates much quicker and runs up to the jumps better. Only runs 110-120 degrees. But, I may be missing something as I am still figuring out this BL/Lipo/indoor stuff....
It seems the buggy is much faster than I am. LOL!MHOR in Denver: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuGyZT5kP6Q
11-24-2008, 10:32 PM
#6118
The following was posted by another member here in the Northwest but some good info, gonna give it a shot for the T4 as well but he is speaking to the B4....... Most of the links dont work? but just search for that part and you will get it......
"Now that more people are using 17.5's in prep for the ECT this winter, I've had a few people asked me how to mount a smaller size spur gear onto the b4(or XXX) and retain the slipper clutch...
Obviously there is a "slipper eliminator" out there. But our cars have the slipper clutch on the car for many reasons; diff life, transmission wear, handling, and weight bias...
Below I have created a list of parts, mostly AE parts and 1 Losi part to make this conversion.
These parts you will need to acquire:
T3 Slipper Plate (outer)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3446&P=SM
T3 Slipper Pad
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3447&P=SM
T3 Spur Gear Bushing
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/6599.jpg
T3 Slipper Spring and Nut
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/6587.jpg
T3 Spur gear screws
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2862&P=7
Losi Hydra Drive Spring Cup and Spring Kit
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/15126
This part you will already have-
B4 Slipper Plate (Inner)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEAD0&P=SM
On the Losi part A-3124. You will need to cut one end of this spacer flush, make sure you keep the side that is "keyed" the same way as the top shaft. Once this is cut you are ready to assemble the slipper clutch.
I have created a transmission blow apart drawing. This drawing shows the basic assembly of the slipper clutch.
Also shown in this drawing are the new parts used in the assembly, these have been highlighted yellow.
Here is the link for the blow apart drawing-
(SEE ATTACHMENT)
I originally assembled and it is geared at 31/69. It seems to be pretty close for the power band. But I would recommend carrying a 30,31,32 pinion selection..."
Worth A Shot
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...8dd56a_o-1.jpg
"Now that more people are using 17.5's in prep for the ECT this winter, I've had a few people asked me how to mount a smaller size spur gear onto the b4(or XXX) and retain the slipper clutch...
Obviously there is a "slipper eliminator" out there. But our cars have the slipper clutch on the car for many reasons; diff life, transmission wear, handling, and weight bias...
Below I have created a list of parts, mostly AE parts and 1 Losi part to make this conversion.
These parts you will need to acquire:
T3 Slipper Plate (outer)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3446&P=SM
T3 Slipper Pad
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX3447&P=SM
T3 Spur Gear Bushing
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/6599.jpg
T3 Slipper Spring and Nut
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/6587.jpg
T3 Spur gear screws
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2862&P=7
Losi Hydra Drive Spring Cup and Spring Kit
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/15126
This part you will already have-
B4 Slipper Plate (Inner)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEAD0&P=SM
On the Losi part A-3124. You will need to cut one end of this spacer flush, make sure you keep the side that is "keyed" the same way as the top shaft. Once this is cut you are ready to assemble the slipper clutch.
I have created a transmission blow apart drawing. This drawing shows the basic assembly of the slipper clutch.
Also shown in this drawing are the new parts used in the assembly, these have been highlighted yellow.
Here is the link for the blow apart drawing-
(SEE ATTACHMENT)
I originally assembled and it is geared at 31/69. It seems to be pretty close for the power band. But I would recommend carrying a 30,31,32 pinion selection..."
Worth A Shot
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...8dd56a_o-1.jpg
11-24-2008, 10:53 PM
#6119
Hey,
I know everyone is talking about gearing for 13.5 or even higher bl motors, but I have a different setup and very new to the whole bl thing. In fact, I haven't even run it yet!
Here's what I have...
Associated B4
LRP Sphere Comp ESC
Orion 3200 Lipo
Speed Passion 17.5 BL Motor
Gearing is set at 23/81
Can someone help with what kinda gearing I should be using please?
Thanks in advance!
I know everyone is talking about gearing for 13.5 or even higher bl motors, but I have a different setup and very new to the whole bl thing. In fact, I haven't even run it yet!
Here's what I have...
Associated B4
LRP Sphere Comp ESC
Orion 3200 Lipo
Speed Passion 17.5 BL Motor
Gearing is set at 23/81
Can someone help with what kinda gearing I should be using please?
Thanks in advance!
11-24-2008, 11:01 PM
#6120
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Hey,
I know everyone is talking about gearing for 13.5 or even higher bl motors, but I have a different setup and very new to the whole bl thing. In fact, I haven't even run it yet!
Here's what I have...
Associated B4
LRP Sphere Comp ESC
Orion 3200 Lipo
Speed Passion 17.5 BL Motor
Gearing is set at 23/81
Can someone help with what kinda gearing I should be using please?
Thanks in advance!
I know everyone is talking about gearing for 13.5 or even higher bl motors, but I have a different setup and very new to the whole bl thing. In fact, I haven't even run it yet!
Here's what I have...
Associated B4
LRP Sphere Comp ESC
Orion 3200 Lipo
Speed Passion 17.5 BL Motor
Gearing is set at 23/81
Can someone help with what kinda gearing I should be using please?
Thanks in advance!