RC10B4/T4 Forum
#4651
Tech Adept
I agree-I started with a pinion around that size (a few teeth bigger) in my B4 w/ stock spur on a Mamba 6900 and it was about right. When I was setting up my T4 with a 4.5r thats where I had it, never got to run it though.
And dammit Chewie, what have you done now!?!?!? :P (-Mini-TBasher55 <333)
And dammit Chewie, what have you done now!?!?!? :P (-Mini-TBasher55 <333)
#4655
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Hey all...new to B4/T4 fun. Hadn't raced off-road in 20 years until a friend had me drive his B4 and T4 (and a couple minutes with his B44) at his local indoor track.
Fast forward, I've bought a T4 with the intent (initially) of running it with the 1/10 nitro trucks on the local outdoor track. It is large (30-ish second laps for 1/8 cars) with fairly wide lanes, hard packed and dusty. Fairly low traction even thought they try to blow the dust off a couple times during a race day. Pretty hot too. Figure race days between 85-100 degrees.
Understand that I can't "ask the fast guys" because I'll be the only electric running. Hoping to start a trend, but for now I'll BE the trend.
First--what is a good baseline tire for the conditions described above? Reading through the ProLine site it looks like the Holeshots maybe?
Second--what sort of spare parts should I be keeping on-hand. I HATE getting knocked out of a day because I don't have a part to fix my car so I don't mind buying some parts...but no sense buying stuff that just doesn't break. I'm a pretty clean driver so it's not like I'll be hacking into stuff non-stop, just the typical mishap here and there. Probably more bad landings off jumps than anything else.
You guys who are mixing with the nitro trucks--what motor(s) are you using? I don't want to obliterate them, just want to find as close to equal speed as I can. My plan is to start out running GTB/10.5 combo with a SMC hardcase 4000 battery. The 1/10 nitro trucks "only" run 10 minute mains here so I'm pretty sure I'm ok for run time. Any suggestions for gearing this combo. Again, this is a BIG track...designed for 1/8. I'll see how the 10.5 runs against the Nitro, if it's not fast enough I'll start going down. I've got a 6.5 here somewhere and have a couple others to do exchanges with Novak to get lower yet if need be.
Fast forward, I've bought a T4 with the intent (initially) of running it with the 1/10 nitro trucks on the local outdoor track. It is large (30-ish second laps for 1/8 cars) with fairly wide lanes, hard packed and dusty. Fairly low traction even thought they try to blow the dust off a couple times during a race day. Pretty hot too. Figure race days between 85-100 degrees.
Understand that I can't "ask the fast guys" because I'll be the only electric running. Hoping to start a trend, but for now I'll BE the trend.
First--what is a good baseline tire for the conditions described above? Reading through the ProLine site it looks like the Holeshots maybe?
Second--what sort of spare parts should I be keeping on-hand. I HATE getting knocked out of a day because I don't have a part to fix my car so I don't mind buying some parts...but no sense buying stuff that just doesn't break. I'm a pretty clean driver so it's not like I'll be hacking into stuff non-stop, just the typical mishap here and there. Probably more bad landings off jumps than anything else.
You guys who are mixing with the nitro trucks--what motor(s) are you using? I don't want to obliterate them, just want to find as close to equal speed as I can. My plan is to start out running GTB/10.5 combo with a SMC hardcase 4000 battery. The 1/10 nitro trucks "only" run 10 minute mains here so I'm pretty sure I'm ok for run time. Any suggestions for gearing this combo. Again, this is a BIG track...designed for 1/8. I'll see how the 10.5 runs against the Nitro, if it's not fast enough I'll start going down. I've got a 6.5 here somewhere and have a couple others to do exchanges with Novak to get lower yet if need be.
#4656
Tech Adept
For me, I always keep 2 front bulkheads, front and rear arms, a rear chassis plate or 2, and wing mounts.
I assume you got the factory team? If not consider the front alloy bulkhead brace as it helps prevent bulkhead breaks.
I assume you got the factory team? If not consider the front alloy bulkhead brace as it helps prevent bulkhead breaks.
#4657
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Yes, it's a FT T4 that has been upgraded with the aluminum GT2 bulkhead. I plan to install the GT2 front arms and B44 rear upright/outer bearing/crush sleeve and have ordered up these parts. I like durability improvements as long as they don't sacrifice performance.
#4658
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
If its a big 1/8 scale track you may need more motor than a 10.5. I run an OS .12 TZ in my GT2 on a small indoor track and its too much motor--but once in its powerband on a large track it will run with 5.5s-6.5s. Maybe try an 8.5 to start and go from there. 8.5 is a good motor in the t4. Combined with the SMC Lipo it should give you enough rip.
Pick up front arms, front shock tower--get a spare pivot block (bulkhead). You could run the GT2 alloy bulkhead which is very durable--but alot of gt2 guys don't run it because it seems to hurt handling. The most durable stuff is the GT2 front arms, shock tower, hubs, castor blocks--the plastic is MUCH softer and flexier than even the regular Team plastic stuff. Some people say the FT graphite breaks more than the regular Team plastic but I never noticed a difference.
The GT2 stuff is alot more durable simply because it flexes instead of cracking.
Pick up front arms, front shock tower--get a spare pivot block (bulkhead). You could run the GT2 alloy bulkhead which is very durable--but alot of gt2 guys don't run it because it seems to hurt handling. The most durable stuff is the GT2 front arms, shock tower, hubs, castor blocks--the plastic is MUCH softer and flexier than even the regular Team plastic stuff. Some people say the FT graphite breaks more than the regular Team plastic but I never noticed a difference.
The GT2 stuff is alot more durable simply because it flexes instead of cracking.
#4659
Tech Adept
Well, here are my B4 and T4. Both were used when I got them, the T4 wasn't in bad shape despite some rust while the B4 was in the worst condition I've ever personally seen a car in-balded tires, broken front bulkhead, the softest springs availible installed, scuffed up chassis, clear but beaten body, bent turnbuckles, and much more I can't even remember at this point as I got it in the Fall. Luckily it came with a working Spektrum receiver, AI ESC, and a PK2 Pro. I restored it using old B4 parts from the Team Kit I got when the B4's first came out (they were in a box basically straight from a newly built B4, only one of the first production models) and I put a lot of time and money into it. Right away I fixed it with parts I already had, installed some FT Titanium Turnbuckles with RPM rod ends, and some Road Rage Tires all around (they are now discontinued...happened years ago and I still had brand new ones, not even glued!). I ran it around and had tons of fun with it with my 2s 6000 packs (looonng run times) and when winter came around I waterproofed it and ran it like no other. I eventually, during the winter, went all out on it-RC Screwz Screw Kit, Acer Racing Diff Balls, FT lightweight outdrives, JConcepts Body and Wing, JConcepts Relux wheels and Panther Switch 2.0 Clay tires with Bobcat Clay fronts, and most importantly a Mamba Max 6900 set up. I eventually got the 6900 serviced and replaced with a 5700 which was the best choice I've ever made with electronics and now its a pure Mod Buggy Racer powerful enough to pass 1/8th scale truggies on the straights. Unfortunately I'm still trying to get used to it and its getting hard with my Mamba ESC still at Castle getting repaired (one day it wouldn't work...weirdest and most frustrating type of problem when you have no idea why it isn't working and no one else does either). I'll be racing it all summer, fall, and next winter at Leisure.
Now, my T4 is a little different. In fact its insanely different. The name of the project is "Creature" and its probably the most powerful car I've ever built or driven. Here is the original build thread that I still update daily when there are updates: http://radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=247372
The basic idea started when I ordered a 4.5r motor for it. Unfortunately, all I had to use with it was the HV-Maxx ESC from my maxx, so I installed it. Chewie told me to put the 6.5 motor in and gear it to the sky, and I actually did it. I have no idea why I actually did, but I did and I ran it with street tires on dual Maxamps 2s 6000 packs geared as high as I could. It was incredible, going down the street pushing past 60 at 3/4 throttle and then flipping and skidding for a few hundred feet (the body developed gapping holes and the rear shock caps and nuts got so badly ground down I had to replace them). I recently got all the parts I wanted to re-do the truck for offroad use and fix several errors I had, including getting a carbon fiber battery strap so I can mount the ESC on something flat and the battery above the other to keep everything center. Also, the battery will no longer eject. You can basically see for yourself with the pics how insane it is, and that thread has more detail on everything including action shots and a video of it on its first few runs. You can also see what happened with the diff preventing me from running it today (I don't really want to retype everything that I just finished there).
I'll be bringing the T4 with me to all my practices, electric on road events, and all offroad races both nitro and electric at Leisure and hopefully some other Chicago area and Wisconsin area tracks touring it.
Now, my T4 is a little different. In fact its insanely different. The name of the project is "Creature" and its probably the most powerful car I've ever built or driven. Here is the original build thread that I still update daily when there are updates: http://radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=247372
The basic idea started when I ordered a 4.5r motor for it. Unfortunately, all I had to use with it was the HV-Maxx ESC from my maxx, so I installed it. Chewie told me to put the 6.5 motor in and gear it to the sky, and I actually did it. I have no idea why I actually did, but I did and I ran it with street tires on dual Maxamps 2s 6000 packs geared as high as I could. It was incredible, going down the street pushing past 60 at 3/4 throttle and then flipping and skidding for a few hundred feet (the body developed gapping holes and the rear shock caps and nuts got so badly ground down I had to replace them). I recently got all the parts I wanted to re-do the truck for offroad use and fix several errors I had, including getting a carbon fiber battery strap so I can mount the ESC on something flat and the battery above the other to keep everything center. Also, the battery will no longer eject. You can basically see for yourself with the pics how insane it is, and that thread has more detail on everything including action shots and a video of it on its first few runs. You can also see what happened with the diff preventing me from running it today (I don't really want to retype everything that I just finished there).
I'll be bringing the T4 with me to all my practices, electric on road events, and all offroad races both nitro and electric at Leisure and hopefully some other Chicago area and Wisconsin area tracks touring it.
#4660
what a good pinion for a b4 with a novak 6.5 r on a med size track. i ran a 21 with the stock spur and the esc got 150 and the motor was around 110 after 7 min runs. does that sound right. it felt flat up top but that could be a tire spinning problem also
#4661
@Creature - That's truck's nuts, seriously. Bring it to S&N's sometime
What's the ballstud above the top motor screw doing?
What's the ballstud above the top motor screw doing?
#4662
Tech Adept
It had an adjustable wheely bar that I made for it that was adjustable on the fly via an HS55 servo. I took it off for its first run, leaving the ball stud. After seeing how much power it has, I can see the wheely bar getting shredded, so I never put it back on-I had forgotten about the ballstud!
Trackside is about the same distance as Leisure for me-if not 10 min less. I'll be bringing it this summer at least once!
Last edited by Creature; 05-31-2008 at 09:01 PM.
#4663
Tech Adept
ESC hotter than motor=overgeared. Try a 19 tooth.
#4664
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I'll do my best
It had an adjustable wheely bar that I made for it that was adjustable on the fly via an HS55 servo. I took it off for its first run, leaving the ball stud. After seeing how much power it has, I can see the wheely bar getting shredded, so I never put it back on-I had forgotten about the ballstud!
Trackside is about the same distance as Leisure for me-if not 10 min less. I'll be bringing it this summer at least once!
It had an adjustable wheely bar that I made for it that was adjustable on the fly via an HS55 servo. I took it off for its first run, leaving the ball stud. After seeing how much power it has, I can see the wheely bar getting shredded, so I never put it back on-I had forgotten about the ballstud!
Trackside is about the same distance as Leisure for me-if not 10 min less. I'll be bringing it this summer at least once!
For a bit more down force you should attach a 1/8th scale wing with a T-Maxx wing kit by tekno
#4665
Tech Adept
It's a 7 inch wing from a B4 and I fear anything more will be a little too much-too big, bulky, and heavy.
I used my 3PK so I had a semi proportional 3rd channel for the wheely bar...it was so kick-ass, but it wasnt practical how it was. Maybe I'll revisit the idea this summer.
With more advice from Chewie, a front wing will be added for high speed runs.
Here was the first run:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=2vfIbcUjXDg
I used my 3PK so I had a semi proportional 3rd channel for the wheely bar...it was so kick-ass, but it wasnt practical how it was. Maybe I'll revisit the idea this summer.
With more advice from Chewie, a front wing will be added for high speed runs.
Here was the first run:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=2vfIbcUjXDg