Wild Cherry

I use a lrp 7,5 X-11 with the bonded rotor...
Last night for practice I switched over to the new sintered rotor...


If you decide to try

suggest U
gear up , I`m using 24/81...
Then reprogram your ESC for less coast brake & less brake....


Will be racing tonight , It perform`s very good, the biggest difference is the smoothest.

The car roll`s smoother & I felt a slight improvement in acceleration for the jumps....

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

Whoa slow down now. I aint ready to get into the speedo.

I'll think about the 7.5 light. Thats $75 I dont really wanna spend right now. But I wont argue I'm overpowered.

So the average car with nimh is closer to 60z than the minimum? Let me get some track time this weekend and then maybe I'll get into some of these other things.

Hopefully I will get there soon enough to get some serious practice time. Last week I was late and unprepared. I also ran both the B4 and RC8 so I was crunched for time. This weekend will be my first chance to play around and see what changes help.

Crashtest1

iTrader: (3)

As odd as it sounds you guys are running too light, wild cherry is right. You need around 59 oz with the battery in. put four 7gr weights inbetween the transmission and battery tray... then hug the sides of the battery tray with the rest of the weight. At first run carbon composite materials until you can run a pack without big time wrecking. Then progress to softer plastic for more flex wich equals traction... set it up, ie, rebounded dogbones and front a-arms completely lvl. I used to run nitro truggy w- a Mugen mbx5t and 4wd is like 2wd with training wheels installed. 2wd is harder but you can drive anything with very little familiarization when properly seasoned as a 2wd racer. I suggested going to tracks/shops simply because thats been my training ground with about 20 or so veteran racers. It's like a cheap RC college if you will. I switched because of the sheer expense and workload of running truggies/ buggies and w-electric I get loads of practice. $110 bucks for a set of tires is sheer stupidity.

'"VRoom-,

air8

iTrader: (7)

Don't worry about programing the ESCs. They are too easy to program. You hold a button for a few seconds and watch the lights light up. Whatever light is blinking will tell you what the settings are. Plus it is laid out in the ESC manuals and very easy to try something, but change back if you don't like the result. It's awesome really...how someone can totally change the feel of the power with one button, pressed several times. LOL. Do not be scared of programing an ESC.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

so i just got a new FTB4 and am running a 4000mah lipo from max amps and a 13.5ss with LRP sphere comp.

Where should I be adding weight to this car? I'm coming from Kyosho. I want to start fresh with weight placement...so, you tell me!

thanks!

air8

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure on the buggy. But on the truck some put weight where they feel it will do them the best. If you want the weight centralized it goes along the outside rails fo the battery tray.Or it goes in the bottom of the battery tray. If you need rear traction-it goes in front of the tranny/or on the side pockets in the rear. If you feel you need more front weight to prevent wheelies or get more turn in-it goes up front by the servo or as close as you can get it. Just some of the places I've heard of putting weight.

wog....supraman

iTrader: (3)

heyas, just finished my first meet of off-road and i had this problem...constant severe understeer...i found the car ran better when i had the battery pack pushed back but yea.....i have no weights in the car...it understeered upon entry and exit......i have this other problem aswell....can any1 help me with it??



back straight...overgeared....gave it full throttle...back end stepped out!!

great

ragefear

holy crap bro! that sucks! Did it actually snap or was it the bolts that backed out? What part snapped? The chassis or the front piece?

Wild Cherry

Try adding ballast like I`m doing , except your battery weights more than mine(Carbon3200) so you will not to have add as much weight...

Bring your total weight up to 59oz....

Then use this set-up as your base set-up...

and

Try 40w in ft & try 25w in back...

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I know programming the speedo isnt too hard. But I am going to take this one step at a time. I adjusted the radio back to 100% throttle epa adjusted the slipper till it pulled the front wheels off the ground and I'm ready to hit the track tomorrow.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

I think I want to get a plastic chassis as I've heard it calms the car down a bit....flexes a hair more? I dunno, that's just what I've been told. I got the tires squared away so now I think i'll just go with 1.5oz behind the battery like all the factory guys are running now-a-days then start with probably 55oz and feel it from there.

I want to get 4 mini scales and get the car 50/50 from Left to Right...front to back 5050 would make the car drive terrible, but if it were balanced left to right, that would be a good way to get it more consistent around the track.

I think i'll use those digital balances we have in the chem department at school.

Thoughts?

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

Ive got mine balanced on the circle on the bottom of the chassis. I used the nut driver I use to take the rear wheels off. I can balance the car on it using that circle that is molded into the bottom of the chassis. Its not centered front to rear but it is side to side.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

or maybe just take some of those golf ball tees and balance the car that way....take the tires off of coarse, toss in a battery and balance away!

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

I didnt really balance it on purpose. I just happened to see if it would balance after I had added the weight and surpirsingly it did.

wog....supraman

iTrader: (3)

yea...suxs..the chassis snapped and so did the top plate.....i have a spare top plate so i chucked it in...looks brand new....u cant even tell the chasis is snapped....but ill be ordering in a new chassis