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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-28-2007, 09:29 AM
  #2221  
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Originally Posted by instantlunch42 View Post
In my b4 i have an LRP v10 9x2 motor with venom 3000 cells and my gearing is a stock spur (81 tooth) and an 18 tooth pinnion gear. I'm just not sure if its under or over geared? the motor is hot as heck after a run and i know heat is not good. any help or suggestions?
AE recommends 9 over the wind, which is what you're at (9T motor, 18 tooth pinion). I've always thought that was a little high, esp. w/v-brush or Checkpoint motors). I generally run 8 over with Mods. Try a 17 tooth pinion, it will make a huge difference. Also, limit your run times to about 6 minutes. If you go much over that your motor and batteries will get hot no matter how you're geared.
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by instantlunch42 View Post
In my b4 i have an LRP v10 9x2 motor with venom 3000 cells and my gearing is a stock spur (81 tooth) and an 18 tooth pinnion gear. I'm just not sure if its under or over geared? the motor is hot as heck after a run and i know heat is not good. any help or suggestions?
IMO I think you're undergeared
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:37 PM
  #2223  
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I'm new to electric offroad and would like to buy a t4 FT. i remember reading a post with all the parts listed (with AE-numbers) for the front-arm GT2-conversion. i can't find it again! any help is welcome!


2nd question: what do you think about aluminium hop-ups (k-factory for example)? do the c-hubs, rear-hubs and rear-brace make sense?

thank you!
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:48 PM
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View the part number GT2/T4 front end conversion thread here

No aluminum parts for racing, except maybe the racers edge rear hubs for different track handling characteristics. Unless you bash. Then knock yourself out with all the aluminum upgrades you can afford.
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Old 06-28-2007, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by illebille View Post
I'm new to electric offroad and would like to buy a t4 FT. i remember reading a post with all the parts listed (with AE-numbers) for the front-arm GT2-conversion. i can't find it again! any help is welcome!


2nd question: what do you think about aluminium hop-ups (k-factory for example)? do the c-hubs, rear-hubs and rear-brace make sense?

thank you!
The parts that you are considering upgrading to the aluminum versions don't usually break. What usually breaks are the ball studs and they can get stuck in there if they don't have a nut on the back end. So aluminum parts won't do you much good. The FT T4 does a great job of giving you all the parts that you will need. The only "hop-up" you should get are the aluminum thumb screws.
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny_S. View Post
The parts that you are considering upgrading to the aluminum versions don't usually break. What usually breaks are the ball studs and they can get stuck in there if they don't have a nut on the back end. So aluminum parts won't do you much good. The FT T4 does a great job of giving you all the parts that you will need. The only "hop-up" you should get are the aluminum thumb screws.
agreed even if you get a yeam kit all you really need are the ball bearing for the diff and the steering
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:19 PM
  #2227  
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Originally Posted by illebille View Post
I'm new to electric offroad and would like to buy a t4 FT. i remember reading a post with all the parts listed (with AE-numbers) for the front-arm GT2-conversion. i can't find it again! any help is welcome!


2nd question: what do you think about aluminium hop-ups (k-factory for example)? do the c-hubs, rear-hubs and rear-brace make sense?

thank you!
The factory team kit comes with everything the pros use. Some people put on a plastic chassis and arms but I wouldn't worry about that. The plastic/carbon parts that come with the kit are best for competition.
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by MXer92 View Post
The factory team kit comes with everything the pros use. Some people put on a plastic chassis and arms but I wouldn't worry about that. The plastic/carbon parts that come with the kit are best for competition.
most all of them switch the carbon out for the regular composit parts...they get more traction
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mugenlife View Post
most all of them switch the carbon out for the regular composit parts...they get more traction
I wouldn't even bother putting a plastic chassis on the T4, the B4 definitely needs it though.
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:24 PM
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if you race on clay you would need it on it i have both and makes a big difference. same way with the arms
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:34 PM
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I run on indoor clay at socal and I have no problem with traction using a graphite chassis. ^^
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:50 PM
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http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/newb...#forumpost5084
post 679
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:11 PM
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At the Losi Race and at the nationals, I was running a graphite chassis on my truck without even knowing that I had it on. I never suffered traction but on my new car I put the plastic on. I want to see what difference I can feel if any.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mugenlife View Post
I understand that you would go to plastic if you need to, it is just another upgrade you can make. But I can't warrant spending 25$ on a new chassis when I have one that already works and handles well enough to keep up with the competition.
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Old 06-29-2007, 01:43 AM
  #2235  
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thanks for all the answers. you saved me some money
the truck is for racing only, so i will buy the stock ft - maybe with a plastic chassis. the gt-2 conversion is recommended mostly for bashing. am i right?

what do you think about the blue aluminium shock-caps (with diaphragma) from yokomo or associated. i think they make working on the shocks easier, don't they?
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