cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

AE recommends 9 over the wind, which is what you're at (9T motor, 18 tooth pinion). I've always thought that was a little high, esp. w/v-brush or Checkpoint motors). I generally run 8 over with Mods. Try a 17 tooth pinion, it will make a huge difference. Also, limit your run times to about 6 minutes. If you go much over that your motor and batteries will get hot no matter how you're geared.

d4man

iTrader: (5)

IMO I think you're undergeared

illebille

I'm new to electric offroad and would like to buy a t4 FT. i remember reading a post with all the parts listed (with AE-numbers) for the front-arm GT2-conversion. i can't find it again! any help is welcome!


2nd question: what do you think about aluminium hop-ups (k-factory for example)? do the c-hubs, rear-hubs and rear-brace make sense?

thank you!

d4man

iTrader: (5)

View the part number GT2/T4 front end conversion thread here

No aluminum parts for racing, except maybe the racers edge rear hubs for different track handling characteristics. Unless you bash. Then knock yourself out with all the aluminum upgrades you can afford.

Johnny_S.

The parts that you are considering upgrading to the aluminum versions don't usually break. What usually breaks are the ball studs and they can get stuck in there if they don't have a nut on the back end. So aluminum parts won't do you much good. The FT T4 does a great job of giving you all the parts that you will need. The only "hop-up" you should get are the aluminum thumb screws.

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

agreed even if you get a yeam kit all you really need are the ball bearing for the diff and the steering

MXer92

The factory team kit comes with everything the pros use. Some people put on a plastic chassis and arms but I wouldn't worry about that. The plastic/carbon parts that come with the kit are best for competition.

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

most all of them switch the carbon out for the regular composit parts...they get more traction

Johnny_S.

I wouldn't even bother putting a plastic chassis on the T4, the B4 definitely needs it though.

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

if you race on clay you would need it on it i have both and makes a big difference. same way with the arms

Johnny_S.

I run on indoor clay at socal and I have no problem with traction using a graphite chassis. ^^

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/newb...#forumpost5084
post 679

MXer92

At the Losi Race and at the nationals, I was running a graphite chassis on my truck without even knowing that I had it on. I never suffered traction but on my new car I put the plastic on. I want to see what difference I can feel if any.

Johnny_S.

I understand that you would go to plastic if you need to, it is just another upgrade you can make. But I can't warrant spending 25$ on a new chassis when I have one that already works and handles well enough to keep up with the competition.

illebille

thanks for all the answers. you saved me some money
the truck is for racing only, so i will buy the stock ft - maybe with a plastic chassis. the gt-2 conversion is recommended mostly for bashing. am i right?

what do you think about the blue aluminium shock-caps (with diaphragma) from yokomo or associated. i think they make working on the shocks easier, don't they?