RCMits

iTrader: (30)

24 degree stock (torque based)---20/87; 11.31:1
24 degree stock (RPM based)---19/87; 11.91:1
19 turn---19/87; 11.91:1
14 turn mod motor---22/87; 10.28:1
13 turn mod motor---21/87; 10.77:1
12 turn mod motor---20/87; 11.31:1
11 turn mod motor---19/87; 11.91:1
10 turn mod motor---18/87; 12.57:1

oh wait you said B4.. not T4... sorry!

schmidt452

iTrader: (15)

22-23 works for me.

T493

iTrader: (3)

I am racing my T4 indoor and i run a Brood 27 turn. Whay motor would be good for outdoor. My ESC has no motor limit

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

stock a monster or epic x co27 though is still good. depending on track for mod 14x1-10x1 would be good. if you havent drove mod before 19t is a good learning point

T493

iTrader: (3)

ok thanks. To me the 10 turn and lower makes no sence for more than a minute because the temperatures are brutal

T493

iTrader: (3)

The only time i have liked lower that 10 turns was when my friend Dan put a 6x1 in his T4.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

the biggest motor i put in my t4 was an 11x1 trinity cobalt, the thing was a rip on the track!!!


now onto my question, i still have alot of wheel wobble in my front tires on my t4, i have replaced the caster blocks, steering knuckles, and the ball cups, any ideas on what should be next?

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

The wheels are probably bent. Get new wheels.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

except for its not the wheels...unless all 6 sets of my fronts are tweaked....the wheel itself moves side to side, but is tightened down.

the wheel tilts side to side without rotating the wheel.

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

You change the bearings?

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

T4 front wheels wear out fairly quick depending how you run. The little dash bearing spacers inside the rim where the bearings ride get mashed in and let the wheel wiggle back and forth. The gt2 front wheels are an exact fit and will not have this problem. Instead of dashes they have a full plastic bead molded in for a bearing spacer.

To prolong the life of the wheels you have now you can just use put on an axel shim or two before the wheel to take up the slop. Just make sure you don't tighten the wheel nut to much.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

ok not saying your help wont help me later, but these 6 sets, all are brand new on proline rims, i haven't thought to try new bearings though....

what size are the wheel bearings? are they the same size that are in the rear hub of the t4 also? one last question about these bearings, does anyone know if they are the same bearings that are in the hubs on the tc3/tc4?

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

3/16 x 3/8 in all 4 hubs on the tc3/tc4, and the t4 takes the same in the rear hubs and the front wheels....now what is the difference between the different types of bearings?

Teflon sealed
Rubber sealed
Metal Shielded

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

teflon- Lowest rolling resistance, decent seal. Kinda like a rubber seal with a teflon coating on the seals so there wont be as much resistance on the inner race against the seal

metal- low rolling resistance. Terrible sealing properties, lets a lot of dirt in since the sheild cant touch the inner race of else the bearing would lock up.

Rubber- Best seal, moderate rolling resistance (not that bad anyways). These are cheap and reliable.

AE part #3977 are the bearings you want. Or you can order bearings that are just as good from places like Avid, or your LHS may have bearings for sale in bulk that are also decent quality.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

humm i had a pack of 2 new rubber sealed bearings, and i put them in and the wheel still tilts....im taking it apart to check the pin...it looks like it might be moving where the pin goes into the hub, as the caster block isn't moving, and the bearings are tight since they are new.....