sean

I think I agree with you. One more Q; what are your opinions on the nitro AE Truck as apposed to the EP T4 Truck with a brushless setup? By that I mean speed, power and run time.

mfishel

If you won't be racing go lipo. By far the most run time. Especially with the efficiency of a brushless system.
If you want to occasionally race I would still suggest brushless and lipo. Just get an ESC capable of accepting all combinations. The new LRP's do this. When bashing use the lipos, and when you get to a race drop in NiMhs and you are legal.
To take it a step further, get a good brushed stock motor. Again the LRP will run brushed or brushless. This way if you don't want to run mod races you can put in the brushed motor with your NiMhs and you are ready to go.

sean

Am I correct in thinking that brushless would be faster than nitro?

MadMikeB

Off the top of my head:

Front arms
Front Shock Tower
Front Shocks
Front Springs
Front turnbuckles
Steering turnbuckles
Rear arms
Rear CVD or bones
Rear shock tower
Rear shocks (springs the same)
Rear turnbuckles
Chassis

MIKE

Manning

iTrader: (3)

There's more parts that are different than the same.

Stuff that's the same.........Tranny/slipper/motor plate, caster blocks, spindles (but not axles), rear hubs, rear suspension mounts and bumper, front bulkhead and steering linkage.

Not practical to swap stuff.

sean

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. It looks like T4 Brushless is the way to go. Nitro might be faster but everytime I get into nitro I immediately get sick of cleaning up all the "nitro slime", its bad enough that I have to do with my plane.
So... I guess I will have a go with brushless systems. Could be interesting.
Do you guys run brushless in your T4's?

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

I race both a gt and T4 with a brushless. Love the brushless, only way to go in my opinion, especially if you're bashing. Electric is as fast as the number of cells you throw on it. It can be faster than nitro. I run the novak gtb and 6.5 in my T4 and it is plenty fast for me.

sean

What other brushless\esc combos would you recomend?

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

The new Castle Creations system looks pretty solid. I wouldn't go with any faster a unit than the 5700kv model. I have seen the 7700kv model in a stadium truck and it is not controllable at 100% settings even on a high grip surface. I have had great luck with the GTB 6.5 but I am looking to motor down to the 7.5 now that I am running Lipo.

sean

Wow, I have been out of the loop for a while. Brushless motors can provide too much power? I guess they really are as fast as the amount of cells you use.

premium_rc

can i equipt my rc10 t4 with te quickchane wheels from a gt2 ???????????????

gatermaxx

iTrader: (6)

yes, you need the conversion kit that AE makes.

Nay0k

iTrader: (1)

True, a guy at my local track had a Novak brushless (5.5 IIRC), with a 3800 pack in his BJ4 last Sunday, outpowered everybody on the straightaway...it was comparable to about an 8 turn non-brushless motor\esc combo...6.5 should be enough if you're running a similar setup with your batteries.

MadMikeB

Wait until you've tried brushless in your T4 - might have to rethink that statement :-)

I run a Velo 5.5 in my T4. I've had it for nearly a year now, and its been very good. Playing on the street it easily has enough power to flip the truck over backwards. For racing I generally reduce throttle end point down to 80%, 85% or 90% depending on track size and grip. Its a great way to race - you buy a motor a little too hot for the truck, then dial it back with your Tx. Awesome - YOU simply dial in exactly how much power you want depending on the track conditions.

I'm pretty happy with my GTB/Velo 5.5 combo (although the ESC fan is cr*p, replaced with the Novak 25mm)
Mike

XMSRacing

iTrader: (11)

I'm a bit of a newb to B4 setup sheets and offroad setup sheets in general.

Looking at the sheet on AE's website - the Maifield/Thielke/Cavalieri setup. The front shocks say -.060 limiters and the rear say 0.030

Is this just putting a .030 limiter in the rear shock and two in the front? I'm confused as to why one is negative and one is not. If your adding limiters - their limiting travel and should both be negative, shouldn't they?

Also - what's meant by "2 washers w/ New Brace" in the rear? What new brace? Or is that some kind of prototype thing they are running?