Here it is after swapping for the black hexes. You can see the fronts still stick out a bit, but they suck in just enough when the shock compresses.

I’m racing my truck in a spec blinks class, with a 17.5t motor. I think I killed my ESC today. I’m wondering if a HW Justock 35a (260a burst) would do the job for now. Thoughts?

i don’t always totally lose, but first place is rare. That may, however, have more to do with me being half blind.

If you have your Slash set up with the LCG chassis and the pro line ProTrac suspension kit, have proper tires for the track and have your shocks dialed in, and you're a good driver, you can do well with the slash. 90% of it is just being a good driver that doesn't crash. I've seen guys at the track with TLR and associated trucks that can't drive for nothing get mad because they get beat by a slash. I love it when a Slash wins the mod a-main against all the other name brand race specific trucks. That makes me smile.

Pretty sure you’re going to want to modify a slash heavily to compete in a typical mod SCT class. LCG chassis, control arms, shocks, etc. As suggested above, speak to the track about their rules and where your truck would be competitive.

Had my local track still run a Spec Slash class, I would have bought one of those.

If it’s in decent condition, that a pretty good deal. Given the price, I’d guess it’s got a brushed motor. not much to know otherwise.

As far as a previous post suggesting TSM (Traxxas Stability Management) I offer an alternative idea - learn how to drive it before leaning on electronic nannies. If you do use them, try to use minimum settings. It’ll make you a better driver and if you ever get into racing, it’s most likely against rules.

Hey guys, my local track is running the stock Slash class. These are the rules for the class.

- Stock Chassis
- Stock tires and wheels. Must have razor blade at minimum height tread across the tire.
- Stock electronics except can use different transmitter and receiver.
- Stock Body (Can be one that comes with truck or direct replacement custom painted)
- Any 2s lipo
- Traxxas Aluminum shock caps permitted
- Traxxas Aluminum caster blocks permitted
- Traxxas Aluminum rear hubs permitted
- Tire sauce permitted
- Any servo map price of $50 or cheaper is allowed. Must be able to show advertised price online or in store.
All replacement parts must be replaced with stock OEM Traxxas parts. If they are not then the vehicle is illegal. We want the racers to police themselves. If you see someone using something they should not be then say something to them,. It is meant to be an entry level class to get racers into the hobby. Come have fun. That is what this class is all about.

With this info, I plan on upgrading the aluminum parts, getting a better transmitter and servo, and using a ProTek R/C 2S 120C Graphene + HV LCG 6100mAh LiPo Battery. With the information I’ve learned over the past few weeks, I think I’ll be ok with the battery but is there anything else I can do, other than practice, to get more out of the truck?

It’s all setup now. If your truck has adjustable camber/steering links, there’s a lot of room there. Adjusting the gearing (if allowed) so you get maximum go without overheating is a no brainer. When they say stock electronics, are they talking brushed motor only, or they including the VXL equipped trucks? That’d make things VERY lopsided.

Anyway, look around for a setup sheets and work from there.

Brushed only and I have the setup sheet with a few to start from. I figured I’d start with a basic setup and get to the track for some practice. Set the gearing and slipper then fine tune it. I was hoping there is something I can do to the shocks or transmission to get a little more out of it. You know, work in the grey area a little.