rcracenut

iTrader: (52)

If you didnt like the suspension, obviously the shocks were not assembled the way they work best. If you did it according to the instructions, they dont work right. Follow Matts instructions and they are the best around.
MIP needs to revise their instructions for the shock build.

tt31978

i love my bypass 1 in my t4.1. with stock rtr shocks in rebound running avid 12mm yellow springs f&r with 30wt in front and 25wt in rear. 30mm ride height front 28mm rear tires are green bar codes. the truck turns very well in the blue groove and when it gets into the dust out of the groove its still controlable i do bottom out easly if i dont time the jumps corectly. ill take that to be able to easly pass others in the turns. im the only one at my track using bypass 1 in stadium truck there mostly used in sc.

iroczcec

iTrader: (140)

matt i should be getting my mip kit tomorrow since i run oval do i need to install the bypass in the shocks?

MIP MATT

Try around .07 valving front and .05 valving rear. With 32.5 wt front, 25 wt rear with your current springs that are working for you. This would be valve on top of piston. In order from top to bottom.

Eclip
MIP Pisotn
MIP valve
MIP washer
Eclip.

Our CVD's / Ball diffs are made out of all American Materials and Manufactured in Covina CA. Because of the American Materials/production, tolerances and wear is much better over standard OEM Products. On all my MIP diffs I make sure to sand the rings with like 600 grit sand paper and once broken incorrectly they last quite a while and this is in Mod SC which is the toughest on drivetrains. Also if you do need to rebuild them MIP offers a very economical rebuild kit that only costs 10 bucks . It comes with Diff balls/rings, thrust balls/rings, new screw/nut. Basically everything to revamp your diff.

The MIP CVD's Vs. AE CVA's is also different. The tolarnces/wear is different as well as handling characteristics. CVD's create more mechanical traction in the corner and CVA's are more free.

Hope this helps.

[QUOTE=rifraf;11965232]Awesome man good to hear! Try out the Bypass, you'll definitely like the handling advantages. Glad its working out for you man

Yes we are revising the Bypass1 Instructions as we speak. Should be published in the coming weeks.

Glad to hear man, as long as the truck is clicking off fast times I don't care hahah. Thats what I had to do at Motorama, I had my truck slammed at like 22mm front 20 mm rear. Track had large jumps but my truck was heads and tails faster than anyone else. I was probably slapping everywhere but couldn't hear lol.

Dialed! The Bypass1 Kit is something you will need to play with. I have good base setups for you guys but I'm by far not a Oval guy . I would throw on your normal setup and go from there. Try the Bypass1 pistons when you have a day or two to test setup.

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

What size are the thrust balls in the Kyosho Superdiff? Same as stock RB6?

MIP MATT

The MIP ones are 1/16, I'm not intirely positive on what the Kyosho ones were, but if you'd like to replace the MIP steel ones with ceramic or something like that I believe Avid offers thrust balls as well. The center gear balls are the same for kyosho/MIP.

truck driver

Matt, how about some CVDs for the Associated Prolite?

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

Cool, thanks!

Bigbearfin

Issue with losi MIP scte. Iam still fighting with understeering. How I could get maximum turning while accelerating out of curve. Track is very smooth and has moderate grip. There is picture earlier in this thread.
standard Losi Scte, Durango Desc410 and Tekno SCT is much quicker in turns. My car feels like frontwheel driven.. I can go full throttle and car won't spin it only push like maniac.

I have tried almost every setup what I can imagine. I just think that MIP is too rear heavy...

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Somethings wrong the mip has almost too much steering.
List setup.

Bigbearfin

Setup
http://speedy.sh/p8mQX/MIP-Sami-1.pdf

I have rear toe same as standard SCTE and anti squat at maximum.

Car weights about 2700 +-50gr dependin on battery. I dont have rear bumber to shift weight more to front.

Car has weight balance about 45% on front and 55% rear.

I have standard pistons and shock towers.

electricRCrocks

iTrader: (7)

Personally I didn't like how the vehicle drove without the rear bumper. I cut the mud flaps off to save some weight but like it much better with the rear bumper on. There are many ways in setup to transfer weight forward while driving but think it's important to have the bumper there in the rear to help with traction.

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Well I'm back from a 6 month hiatus and ready to get my truck back on track. When I first got the MIP kit I was the first person in my area to get it. Put it on the track for the final part of our club summer series and tore it up. Won all my quals and took 4th in the Amain against some sponsored drivers. Now, everyone has it (copy cats muhahaha).....

Changing up my setup, I decided to get the holes in my shock towers drilled out. I'm using Matt's setup from SMACTRAC. Just curious, he lists the rear springs as green, do you mean green fronts or green rear springs? I was thinking about checking out his motorama setup as this normally is the conditions at my track on practice days.

Anyone have a video of the motorama 4wd short course A main?

Bigbearfin

Rear bumb off was test to get more weight to front to help onpower steering. Did you look my setup? Any ideas to get more weight to front? I have tested many setups without great succes. I know that our track is very unusual but all other trucks works well there... Iam so ready to by durango or tekno

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

I dont use the bumper...i just use the little peice that the bottom screws connect to.

Whats the track conditions? Loose? What surface? Clay? If you want more ON power steering you can also play with your diff fluids.

Try laying the shocks down? Lighter oil? Remove the sway bar where you want more traction?

Tons of things...you can get it setup, just need time to play with it. I have my gear packed up ready to go to change my setup at the track tomorrow. Remember though, one step at a time, drop it on the track, see how it does and adjust from there.

I never really use someones full setup....i use it as a base and adjust from there. Find a setup that best matches the conditions you race on. Drive it, hell, if you have local pros, let them drive it....ask them questions.

Ask any of my local friends....when i go to the track, i spend more time fixing or helping others than i do my own gear. People (like myself) love when we can share our useless knowledge with others hahahahaa....get out there, ask questions. LHS is a good place also. We have some pretty good racers in our local shops. The shop i go to is owned by a Futaba driver. Nice guy...always will give advice, shows his setup, gives tire advice.