Hello guys and gals. How much better is the 2.1 version over the 2.0??? Is it really worth spending the extra $125 or so to upgrade to it??? Will I (poor driving skills club racer) benefit or even notice the upgrade??? It mainly upgrades the rear end even more and puts 14 degree angle caster things (I don't know what they're called) plus 2.3mm front sway bar up front. Any feedback would be great. Thanks

I noticed while disassembling my 2.0 RTR to clean after a club race that my buggy came equipped with a 18T pinion gear from the factory. I thought this to be weird because the setup sheet states a 16T pinion is used. I have the dragon RC 1650kv motor and 46T spur gear. Is this a running change? I'm gonna change out the esc/motor soon but noticed that the stock motor is a 4068 size can which really limits my motor choices. I won't run tekin because I don't have a money tree growing in the backyard (LoL). Plus I'm just a casual club racer. Any suggestions on a inexpensive sensorless or sensored motor to run. I don't care if it's sensorless or sensored (I'm not picky). I saw hobbystar has a 4068 1900kv motor. I'm not sure on the quality of the hobbystar products though. I'm gonna run a hobbywing xr8 sct pro esc. Thanks

hobbystar is phenomenal, get one and don’t look back

Is that what you run? If so what hobbystar products do you run? My Serpent is used only for racing (no bashing here).

I noticed the rtr chassis does not have the milled out section under the motor. I am putting in a hobbystar 1900kv motor. What pinion gear should I run? My spur gear is a 46T. The pinion that came with the 1650kv was a 18T. Will I encounter any clearance issues with the motor due to the lack of milling under the motor when using a smaller pinion gear?

I’m not familiar with you’re motor but I have fitted 4268 trinity motor in mine just by using 3mm spacers under the CD/motor mount.
If you’re running the 1900kv on 4s id start around 16t and watch the temps by going up in pinion till you find the sweet spot in speed and temps..

I've got a weird problem. I'm rebuilding my diffs on my 811e rtr. Upon putting the front clip back on the chassis I now have massive binding issues. I can't turn the CV shafts at all after all the screws are tightened down. The only thing I did different was I replaced the bearings with avid bearings. Im so frustrated with this issue I can't see straight. I'm ready to throw this buggy in the trash. Can anyone please help before I go insane. I'm about ready to jump ship to Tekno were I know I can get someone on the phone to help with issues. Thanks for any advice or possible solutions.

Diff in wrong as in the ring gear on the wrong side of pinion? This can cause the gear to rub the chassis if there isn’t a recess cut for clearance.

I don’t own one but tossing this out there as it is a common mistake in other brands.

Hold on, don't throw it out. I understand you're at the end of your wick, but let us help you. It's tuff on here because not many people use RCTech anymore.
Take the whole front clip off and check rotation, both forward and backwards. Make sure the driveshaft is on the correct side of the chassis brace. There's three lengths of screw. Short for the steering, med for the middle screw and long ones for the front where the bumper is. Also when you put the coupler onto the pinion shaft, don't lunch them together, just let them touch. Too loose will not have a good mesh between ring and pinion for the diff, and too right will bind the bearings.

The gears spin freely forward and back when the clip is off the buggy. It's only when I attach it to the chassis do I get binding. It's fine when I put the shorter screws in the back of the housing but when I put the longer front screws in is when it starts to bind. The more I tighten the front screws the more I get. I could possibly have tweaked my chassis last race and not know it until now.

I followed the manual when putting the diff back in the housing to make sure it is in correctly. I'm getting ready to just put it together and running it bind issue or not. I've spent hours wracking my brain trying to solve this issue. I just can't figure it out.

Have you checked the rear end prior to to puting the front end back on.

It's hard to figure out what it could be. There has never been an issue with these cars.

Im in the process of redoing the rear diff now. Hopefully I don't have any bind issues there. I was able to get the front diff not to bind so much. I'm just gonna run it and see what happens.

What is binding.
1. Is there any back lash in the front ring and pinion, take off the front camber link on the tower and let the drive shafts come out of the outdrives and see if there is still binding.

2. you could take off the center drive shaft before and check for binding ( while it's mounted to the chassis.

3. Take off center diff and mint the front clip, see if there is binding

4. Spin the front axles while the driveshafts are out of the diff out drives.