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i have ran the same top plate on my nitro buggy for gallons and i never glued it
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Man I just can't contain myself when a new kit arrives. My E kit was at the mailbox tues last week and I rolled it up and down the street at 2am wed. The durango came 12/24 and i raced it 12/26. I guess I just done have the self control that you guys do. If its in my bench I gotta put it together and see what it can do. :cool:
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Originally Posted by porkchop
(Post 9840119)
i have ran the same top plate on my nitro buggy for gallons and i never glued it
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Originally Posted by Bonadona
(Post 9840106)
The process to sanding the shock towers is simple. But don't just to the towers, do the carbon steering top mount as well. Just sand the edges with 400 grit sandpaper to knock off the rough spots then go over them with 800-1000 grit to smooth them out. After that I like to take a black sharpie marker and go over everything I just sanded (the edges). Finally get a couple of q-tips to apply the glue. I've done a ton of Touring Car kits and nothing works better than super thin finger nail glue from your local CVS or Wallgreen's. All tire CA type glues are thicker than nail glue. The one I use is called Jet Dry. 2 bottles to a pack for like $3. Wet the q-tip with glue and make smooth strokes abound the edges. When the q-tip starts to smoke from the fast drying activators, throw it away and start with a new q-tip. If you use the sharpie before glueing it leaves a nice shiny black "piano" Finnish.
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Originally Posted by IanB
(Post 9838999)
Ran mine with the transponder on the mount under the ESC and had issues with it not picking up !
Maybe why the instruction book refers to having it on the servo instead ;) Awesome car though well balanced and handling is very well balanced :D |
When I ran a losi I use to put the transponder in the same box as the the receiver and as long as it was horizontal with the #'s up I never had an issue.
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
(Post 9840575)
Also had problems with the transponder not being picked up with it mounted under the ESC. But, I had the numbers facing down. Will try it again with the numbers facing up and see how it works.
Fitted a smaller MRT cloned transponder that sits flat next to the servo on the sideguard which seems to have cured the problem now :smile: Will try refitting the AMB under the ESC other way up and see what happens next meeting ;) |
Well I got my buggy Last monday and finaly no kids and the chores are done LOL. So I just got it soldered up (and yes thats the elusive 3 hole rx8 with black heatsink on vegas 212) Please excuse the messy work bench
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...4/236f418e.jpg |
Originally Posted by joel804
(Post 9841080)
Well I got my buggy Last monday and finaly no kids and the chores are done LOL. So I just got it soldered up (and yes thats the elusive 3 hole rx8 with black heatsink on vegas 212) Please excuse the messy work bench
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...4/236f418e.jpg |
Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
(Post 9841096)
Looks good buddy always great finishing a build very satisfying you know its done correctly well at least U hope :D
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And the body art or lack of there of LOL still working on it
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...4/a8036c57.jpg |
Looking good guys.
I'm headed to the track tomorrow to try a few tips that Billy Easton passed down like making the rear springs stiff. I'll post up my findings after. |
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At the max width the RC8 body is 1.5" wider
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...4/0566bb17.jpg |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 9840099)
Guys 12 gauge wires is more than sufficient for these cars. I will strongly suggest NOT using bullet connectors on your motor wires. The amp draw is often over the rating of the connectors and should one of those come off during a run it will be very bad.
I do understand that if one of the connectors would open then the motor would effectively lose a phase and go into shunt causing very high temps and vibration. But some connectors are very good. |
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