The Truhe setup that Chicky posted a few pages back should work well. I am pretty close to that right now with some small differences in diff oil. It will get you on the right path though.

I searched through the last 12 pages of this thread and could not find the Truhe setup. Can you please re-post the Truhe setup?

Sorry I meant Flurer's setup.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13041534-post4597.html

I am pretty close to that. I have purple front springs instead of the pink, Opt 3 ackerman bar, 2.1 front, 2.0 rear wire style sway bars, 3.5 front and rear camber (really bumpy track, 2.5 and 3.0 normally) and diff oils at 7/5/5.

Thanks

FYI....

Had a very minor problem with the kit (not worth mentioning). What is worth mentioning is what happened as a result.....

I dialled up Paul. He contacted a Canadian dealer, and I had the part on my doorstep within a week!

That's what I call service!

Thanks, Paul.

Hey chicky if I send you pm can you out me out with gear as my importer won't help me out as he is really rude to me and other custmers

hey guys I will be running a hobbywing 120 wp esc and a trackstar 2100 kb motor what pinion should I used on a large track

I am running a 150A Hobbywing and 1900KV Tekin motor with a 16 pinion, 46 spur. With a 2100 you may want to start with a 14 or 15 and temp from there.

Got mine back together after smoking a motor. Think it was bearing related as the rear bearings were terrible, but didn't have replacements. Running 1900 16/46 with composite spur. Hopefully we don't get rained out saturday! Max's setup is great. Hope to dial it in a little more this weekend.

in the plastic hinge pin inserts. When the setup sheet refers to up/down, is it referring to the number or the hole? I'm thinking the hole, but the instruction manual seems to focus on the number...

Based off the SRX-2 I'd say the position relates to the hole.

I thought I saw this somewhere but I wanted to verify.

Did the bearings change between the V1 and V2 of the ebuggy? I'm thinking of getting the bearing kit from Avid but I want to verify I'm not getting a bunch of wrong bearing.

No, the changes to the bearings sizes and amounts were first done on the electric buggy.

Dave, why the composite gear?

It is referring to the orientation of the number. 6 UP will look like 6, 6 DOWN will look like a 9 when looking through the holes in the blocks.

Are you sure on this? I have some hodge podge chassis's so not sure, but I was under the impression that the original 1.0 811 (be and nitro) used the same rear uprights and front hubs, and the 2.0 has the larger bearings. On the rear you can tell based on the mounts (or lack of) for the wheel cleaners (2.0 has them). The 811be had some V2 parts, but not to be confused with 2.0 parts, and I thought the bearings changed with the 2.0.

I could very well be wrong.

Quick question... I have the original 811 be. My car fishtails. I have gone to a blue spring (V1) in the rear and went down to 27 weight oil. This has helped a bit, but is still difficult to drive. The car is basically setup with the stock setup sheet. I run on dusty large outdoor tracks and traction is low. I was wondering if I increase the rear toe in how much will this help. I am inclined to go to the max 4.5 rear toe in to see the drastic effect and adjust from there (Less than 4.5). Suggestions please... FYI I am running Purple front springs and now blue rear springs (V1).. I used to run green rear springs... I would like to go back to the green springs as the blue softer springs make the car bottom out more and I see rear end chassis wear...