Thanks quess its just a see what ya get out of a 540,and if you like it but it sounds like I shouldn't have to worry about burning it up if it's geared conservatly.what turn did you run and gear??

it looks like my kit was a tad newer and the parts look up dated. for 550 motors look trim out from the box.

540 is plenty fine. a castle 3800 4 pole is plenty motor and they are cheap.

550's dont have the top end speed, they are great motors when you have a track thats tight and doesnt have a run to clear a double. Just a quick squeeze of the trigger and over she goes.
550's weigh more too. All the pro drivers went faster with 540's , the new 540's that are out make great power down low and up top.

I ran the castle and it was great, still have it as a spare.

do put in my mmp esc with 5700 4 pole motor in it now?

Sure y not lol

Hoping for a quick answer...
I'm trying to make my own glitch buster. The Radio Shack only have 35V 4700úf capacitors. Will those work? They say 35V max, so I'm assuming yes, but just want to make sure. Thanks!

Is anybody running the exotek chassis with the exotek saddlepack mounts?? If so what are your opions??

Kudos to the Reedy motor and esc combo in the RTR. I actually had to dial back the top end to about 85% as I was literally running over other cars on the track (10th buggies and 8th 4x4's, no joke) with the top end speed that it gives. I am only running on one indoor track and the straights are not too long but there are a couple of very cagey jumps that need full concentration to master. Overall, I have added fewer upgrades so far than I did with my Blitz ESE but I do have some STRC and the RCShox differential upgrades coming. The best bang for the buck seems to be the swaybars as they allow some body roll but keep the opposite side a bit more planted in the corners. I also like that I only need one main set of tools (metric) with the very rare small Allen key for pinions that are not metric. So far, the basic truck is box stock with the ride height at 17mm (carpet indoor track so no bumps on the flat sections) but I have added 3 mm shims under the inner front camber links and 2 mm shims under the rear inner camber links. My only deviation from stock. I will try -2 degrees front camber later tonight on the front (-1 now) and maybe the same on the rear if there is too much tendency to roll. It is a lot better than before adding the bars but there are still times that out of nowhere, over it goes. I may be right on the edge and pushing too hard when it happens. Love both cars but this may be my all time favourite RC land vehicle. Take care.

Don

PS. Schumacher Minipins on the rear and AKA Cityblocks (for now) on the front.:cool:

I modified my b44 mounts to fit in the exotek..the exotek mount put the batts upfront . truck works better they are inline down the center for me.
I posted some pics on page 945,946.
rcshox makes a mount that uses the same holes for inline setup and you dont have to modify anything

The screws did not go all the way in. I had to use smaller screws and spacer to fit lipo. If I could go back, I'd go with RC shox velcro.

I ran 58 spur, 22 pinion and that finally gave me the power and speed I need. Ice Cold. You also have to grind the shit out of where the motor sits to get it far enough away from the spur to mount that gearing. You didn't pick an "easy" drop in motor, but when it's in an all happy... Whoa.

Did you switch out to rear Blue? How did that feel?

1. Take the pin out of the shaft.
2. 27.5r, 30f
3. yellow/blue sway
3. blue/yellow spring
(I haven't ran PRCR in 3 Track changes due to work and life. I hope to be down there more often soon... (key term: hope) )

I'm only holding you over till Cameron gets back to you. He forgot to give me a setup sheet too when he offered. :lol: He's a busy guy!

my new kit looks like they up dated some parts like more room for the motor.

Can anyone confirm that? I honestly, doubt it.

edit: No offense, Vito. That just doesn't sound right.

You will be fine with that. From what I remember Radio Shack was kinda proud of their caps though. If you have an electric supply place in town you might be able to do better. I picked up a few 6800 10v for $0.25 each at mine.

PRCR set-up
 

Sorry for not posting and official set-up. I am between a lot of different things right now and doing some testing so I am changing the truck almost every run. My old standard set-up turns out to be almost identical to the Ryan's set-up from the Reedy race at Hot Rod Hobbies. My changes because at the time I did not have saddles was to add 1oz up front with the servo and 1.5mm of spacers on each wheel to make it wider because DE Racing does not have the wider wheel yet. I also used 32wt in the front and 27wt rear (Losi oil) the rest is the same to their set-up.

So that should be a pretty good set-up for PRCR right now too. Next weekend I have a race in Tacoma, WA I am traveling too and then I will be back at PRCR for the next 6weeks. Look me up and I will help anyone that needs it at PRCR.

When I get fully locked in with a set-up I will post it up. :D