Wow... I appreciate the test example. I wouldn't of thought.

Anyone else have the same luck? Looks like the Pro 4 is going to be in the Mail. I was hoping to keep a 550, but not if that's the case. My Castle 550 is icecold under crazy gearing and has GOBS of torque.

thats what the hobby partz website says.. Id send you the link but it wont let me post links yet lol :p

Must be a typo.

I saw that too, its a a typo. its impossible to put 2 cells in a 3 parallel system.

yeah i didnt think so but its what it says, so is it really 50c then?

Depends, if each cell is 25c then it would be 50c since it's 2p, but they could be rating the pack togather.

When packs are sold as "saddle packs" it's C rating written on them is the combined rating. But for Gen-crap, they bloat their C rating, so the low 25c rating doesn't make sense.

chances are its with the pack all together

is that similar FDR as my gearing? 93/17 was slow, 93/21 better but far away from the speed i need..,

58/22 32p :D ??

haha. Yes, 32p

You shouldn't really run 48p with that motor. One "little too soon on the throttle landing" and Done. At least: I ripped 1 1/2 up due to being an aggressive driver on a blown out track.

Alright. Balldiff time.

Here's my problem:

I am using a new lightweight Rear Topshaft: When installing the little spacer that holds the Metal disks in place, I place it down to sit ontop of my Rear slipper hub and whammo: It won't sit flush because of the lip on the Topshaft. This is one of those "spacer in the back of the slipper hub problems we argued about on page 100 etc.

What do I do?
- Leave the spacer in the back of the hub to allow the adapter for the balldiff to sit flush?
- Round out a little bit of that blue disk spacer so it 'will' sit flush?
- Kill it with Fire?

And if I do the spacer (as my truck has been since I got it, no need for the Basket) How am I supposed to adjust the balldiff then with it being that way? No different? When I tightened so the spring was fully compressed, it sure did'nt feel very "tight" to me.. I could easily spin the diff. Any Trick or whatever? I followed Mantis' instructions to the T, but it's just not tight, and of course, this spacer thing.

Any help would be appreciated. I would really prefer not to blow up 45 bucks.

that is because you were under geared. You should have been at 15/62.
The pro 4 has more top and bottom but you sacrifice runtime. Both are very good motors.

Do not buy the Gens Ace 6000 mah packs. They are to tall and require you to make your own battery strap. The b44 battery post and straps will not work because the batterys are so tall. I am running the gens aces for now and they work fine. Just get the 4800's.

Truthfully I had great success with the Tekin SC4X 5.5 but I also had temp problems. After a 10 min main my motor would reach over 200 degress! I fixed that promblem with a heatsink with a fan and now the motor runs awesome. But I would get the pro4 since you are switching to saddles just because its lighter and you wont have to add as much weight to balance the truck.

I would have waited till the pro 4 came out but I was in a pinch and had to buy a motor quickly.

Does 15/62 sound good for the 1410 and MMP combo? Tight indoor track.