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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey
(Post 10114903)
Thanks, BTW i just noticed your post count. That has to be the best first post ever!
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It's too bad I just threw out a set of Diffs with Shot bushings...
/sadpanda |
CoyoteSlash did you get my PM?
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Originally Posted by B ELDRIDGE
(Post 10114703)
I think I may have found a way to fix wobbly diffs. You cut down where the 10x16x4 bearing rides to about 1.25mm tall, then you can place a 5x10x3 bearing(AE91156) inside the other bearing for the outdrives to ride in.
Attachment 856485 Attachment 856486 Attachment 856487 Attachment 856488 If it actually holds up, you are my hero! Keep us posted! |
Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 10114910)
what "correct height" are you using? I've noticed inside the brass bushing thing that there is a small groove right where it looks like the outdrive o-ring would sit....is that where you're cutting it?
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 10112919)
So let me see if i got this right, Mantisworx takes a Tekin RX8 put it in Mantisworx truck with the Tekin pro4 motor run it for two weeks with 10* of boost and it burns out. Take Mantisworx Hobbywing and put 15* of boost same motor same batteries and it still runs(2 mths now) and runs better but Mantisworx is obviously doing something wrong right? gimme a Effin break!!! Mantisworx is not stupid and dont wire things up wrong or any of the things that you are going to say Mantisworx did wrong to blow them up!! fact is ( at least for me ) the hobby wing is running and my Tekins dont say what you want. Mantisworx has been in the Mfg industry for a LOOOOOOOONG time and its obvious by your statements that you have not!!
ThunderbirdJunkie said nothing about your wiring or anything, he simply stated he didn't understand what was happening with you (or anybody else's) Tekin stuff that it was burning up. So what is the "ragged edge" you speak of? if Tekin says the ESC should run a 7.5 than it should be able to do so with any settings, that is just a dumb remark???? no where in the Tekin manual does it say " only run the RS with a maximum timing of ____ nor does it describe what the ragged edge is. If they were worried about a 7.5 being run on the ragged edge than they would just state that max motor is an 8.5 and call it a day. Mantisworx doesnt mind paying 200bux for and esc and it last (and i keep trying) but if for any reason they dont last and my cheap chinese ones do than i choose to spend my hard earned money on products that last FOR ME not you. Mantisworx bet you pay for 200.00 "american made" LIPO's too dont ya? oh wait they are not made in the US either............ go take a walk in your kitchen and pick up any of your dishes, stove plastic containers, your car etc etc and see where they are made as well as your Chevy or ford. Pop the hood pull out a relay and you will see that it says "mitsubishi" on it!! What about the computer you are typing with? thats ok though right? BTW-ThunderbirdJunkie's stove and dishwasher were both built in Marion, Ohio. CMON man its just reality, as sad as it may be Mantisworx is keeping it real at the end of the day its about profit margins. labor rates or 500% higher in the US than in China bad quality or not......... tl;dr u mad, bro?
Originally Posted by skengines
(Post 10113180)
I'm reading that the top shafts can bend in this truck. Don't see how that possible as they are fairly thick, but is this something I should keep handy?
Originally Posted by Chad Smith
(Post 10113220)
You should have a extra top shaft if you plan on running a "pinned" setup. I havent heard of people braking top shafts or bending them when they are running the standard slipper.
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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey
(Post 10114903)
Thanks, BTW i just noticed your post count. That has to be the best first post ever!
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Someone give that man an e-cookie!
Now I have to order some bearings. :) |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10114923)
It's too bad I just threw out a set of Diffs with Shot bushings...
/sadpanda This stuff is all so small, I never throw any of it away, you never know.... |
Originally Posted by Vegatron75
(Post 10115220)
never throw anything away, hahahaha
This stuff is all so small, I never throw any of it away, you never know.... It's a process! |
i hope my truck shows up in the mial in the am :sneaky::sneaky:
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MMP & Savox BEC glitch
Hey guys I had a problem that just started today where my truck didn't want to engage the motor. I reset factory settings on the esc and other basic troubleshooting, and figured out that it works fine with the BEC at 5.5v, but gives the "lipo cutoff" led's when setting it to 6.0v (which is where it's been for dozens of runs)
I'm using the internal BEC with a Rx cap. Has anyone else had this problem? I have a few cheap external BEC's, which can handle the voltage, but I think it's only about 3A. Think it's worth trying? Should I just send the esc back to castle? Or just run at 5.5v and live with the reduced torque and speed? I'm using the Savox SC-1256TG and the Pro4 motor |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 10115359)
Hey guys I had a problem that just started today where my truck didn't want to engage the motor. I reset factory settings on the esc and other basic troubleshooting, and figured out that it works fine with the BEC at 5.5v, but gives the "lipo cutoff" led's when setting it to 6.0v (which is where it's been for dozens of runs)
I'm using the internal BEC with a Rx cap. Has anyone else had this problem? I have a few cheap external BEC's, which can handle the voltage, but I think it's only about 3A. Think it's worth trying? Should I just send the esc back to castle? Or just run at 5.5v and live with the reduced torque and speed? I'm using the Savox SC-1256TG and the Pro4 motor The motor isn't engaging at all no matter what? Or when the servo is tweaked over a direction like a voltage loss. Castle internal BEC's are notorious for being very low end. When you're racing a MMP with high end equip, a BEC is pretty much a necessary purchace. The controller is awesome, programming, etc. But that BEC leaves something to be desired. I actually power my Servo alone with the BEC. the BEC on the MMP powers the reciever and nothing else. I like now it works. |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10115415)
So a MMP with Pro 4, and a Savox.
The motor isn't engaging at all no matter what? Or when the servo is tweaked over a direction like a voltage loss. Castle internal BEC's are notorious for being very low end. When you're racing a MMP with high end equip, a BEC is pretty much a necessary purchace. The controller is awesome, programming, etc. But that BEC leaves something to be desired. I actually power my Servo alone with the BEC. the BEC on the MMP powers the reciever and nothing else. I like now it works. I had problem starting a few weeks ago where it would shudder bad at start up, but though it was because I had the start power set to medium instead of the default low, could have been the same issue starting to show its' self. I'm kinda kicking myself now for not just getting the RX8 to start with, may get one now and move the MMP to another model that doesn't have a power hungry servo. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 10115453)
Yep, motor just refused to respond. Also at one point I was flashing yellow and/or green followed by red and a beep. Also the fan would stop and start sounding like it was rebooting it's self.
I had problem starting a few weeks ago where it would shudder bad at start up, but though it was because I had the start power set to medium instead of the default low, could have been the same issue starting to show its' self. I'm kinda kicking myself now for not just getting the RX8 to start with, may get one now and move the MMP to another model that doesn't have a power hungry servo. Just Call Castle and tell them. They'll have you fill out a slip, and send one your way as you send yours back. 2 day down time. |
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