Has anybody encounterd a slipper that will not tighten down. I have tried everything (except hd pads, which are not avail) and the only thing AE customer service has come with is that the tension spring might be bad. I am running the 32p gear with a tekin 4.5 550.

Anyone else have this issue? While building my kit yesterday (Sunday) I noticed one of the front dog bones was not cut to accept the pin that secures it to the axle. I called AE this morning and was told it was the first they had heard of it, but are sending out a replacement right away. Awesome customer service for sure, just hope it arrives quickly so I can hit the track Wednesday night for its maiden voyage.


http://i371.photobucket.com/albums/o...i/d98d8351.jpg

This is my problem. I see no binding. And i built it like the manual. No extra parts.

Thanks BBurns :)

First thing, take the wheels off. Then take the belt, the clicker and the slipper off. Even take the cva's out of the outrives. Now check and spin the topshaft o the front and rear. If you feel any resistance in the rear, the motor plate it too tight. Threadlock the ends of the bolts, snug them down and back them off a half turn. It should now be super free. In the front, if there is any binding, the belt cover is too tight, snug it up, and again back it of a half turn, make sure to notice if the bolts are protruding out of the plastic on the inside of the belt cover, it could rub on the clicker causing bindin as well. it should feel nice and free now. Also put some diff grease on between the two halves of the clicker, making it smoother. Now put the belt on. Im running hole 3 in the rear and 5 in the front. Hope this hels someone.

Buy this and you'll get your hand tools and power driver tips all in one. This particularly handy for those that are new to the hobby and have not yet collected a bunch of tools.

Ohhhh, that sucks!!
Sorry to see that.

I had to realign my servo bec I didnt hook it up to the esc as advised before putting it on, did it the manual way move it to the right and left and center it from there, it never works that way :cry:

Had to remove the front piece, top plate of servo, front belt holder, battery and tires just to get the servo fixed and it took me a good 30 mins to think of the easiest way to get to it and to do it

All I can say is the car runs well, turns on a dime even with the clicker off, jumps well and is very predictable when racing
The only problem I see is the maintenance and if parts need to be replaced. It will take more time to do any fixing bec of the complicated design. It reminds me of my xx-4. Hard to work on but sure is a good car to race

I have tried the Jammin, slash, scte and the sc10 4wd
By far the easiest car to drive and is very precise, shocks needs to be worked on now bec is a bit too bouncy for our rutted track
scte is stable and is a tank, predictable too but not as nimble as the sc10
more races will tell if the losi or the ae will be on top at big races and at club races
let the rivalry begin again

For shits n giggles I tried accessing the servo from underneath.

I had to remove 16 screws/nuts, including inner ball studs and upper shock nuts. This allowed the front chassis plate with arms still attached to pivot out of the way. Did not have to touch the belt/clicker etc.


I next time I will try it from the top for comparison. AE could have easily designed the front end better to make the servo accessible from below.

Well we know what the last thing they do when they make the dog bones. Cut the slot for the pin.:lol:

gearing for temporary setup
 

I put my Orion Pro Race 8.5 out of my SC10 into my 4x4 and geared it 18/93. Someone ripped off my temp gun so I'm back to using the "hold the finger on the motor" method until I can stomach buying another gun.

After 10 minutes I can hold my finger on the motor for a couple of seconds so it's definately not getting too hot but the truck is definately guttless on the low end so I dont think gearing up would help. Hopefully I will be the proud owner of a new 4.5 Ballistic High Torque soon (when they come out).

I don't think getting to the servo is that bad. :smile: I have done it twice now it is getting easier. (I don't want to talk about why a second time :blush:)

One tip is to lay out the screws when you take them out in a pattern on the table that they came out in. Then you know where all the 8,10,12,18 mm length ones go back on the truck quickly. :D

I heard that the Tekin RS Pro. May not work with the SC10 4x4. Is there any solutions to fix this issue?

Running conservatively with the Castle 3800 I am pulling 1500mah off a battery in 5 minutes. Repeated this 3 times. Pulled 3000mah in 10 minutes of racing with no warmup laps.

so can anyone either confirm or debunk the myth that "slash rear" offset wheels can be used and still be under legal width? I've got a crap load of tires mounted on slash rears I used for my Blitz ESE, just don't have my SC10 4x4 yet (thursday according to fedex)